Richards Grandad

THANKS Going Spare ,save me a bit of time. Thought it could only be a DCC thing. Surprised both gear and worm wheel were both plastic on original , glad to change to plasticnylon with brass worm wheel. THANKS again

Just bought 2 off worm & worm wheels hoping to replace worn gear on axle , along with that l bought 2 off 0-6-0 motor and retainers (which l thought were amazingly cheap at just under £3) these have come with a 4 point plug attached . Original Thomas 0-6-0 doesn't have this plug (black lead ,grey lead, red lead ,pink lead) l assume l will be able to remove solder join some of these leads to get chassis working on track , have put power to motor and am happy that it operates as it should ,it's just that on track this plug is coming into operation and chassis is static , l probably would be able to work it out , but thought it more appropriate to get answers on here? Which leads need joining to which ? Thanks for any answers

Solved , green lead had come out of connector under table . Bit like not checking to see if fuse has blown really . Sorry for wasting your time AGAIN! thanks GJ Bob

Yes Would have been wired to a yellow switch , but has been working ok since replacing with correct switch . No signs of burnt out coil , smell or visual . Get back to checking soon. Motor is off baseboard and will only operate pulling lever in to motor . GJ Bob

Unmounted motor from base and motor still only works the one way like the actuating rod isn't being pulled into the coil at that end or pushed from other , whichever it is. GJ Bob

Ok THANKS Now sorted , obviously l was using the yellow switches thinking they were same as the other coloured not realising that they all had different operating methods . Got all four points working on four black switches , one of the points has packed up working one way ,it is one of the surface mounted versions (are they prone to being problematic) only a few weeks old , motor pulses when powered but refuses to activate lever ,just the one way , opened it up and all connections are still intact . coil problem? so renew point motor? Change leads over on switch just in case that showed it did work wired other way but still no joy . THANKS for sorting other problem for me. GJ Bob

Ok THANKS Now sorted , obviously l was using the yellow switches thinking they were same as the other coloured not realising that they all had different operating methods . Got all four points working on four black switches , one of the points has packed up working one way ,it is one of the surface mounted versions (are they prone to being problematic) only a few weeks old , motor pulses when powered but refuses to activate lever ,just the one way , opened it up and all connections are still intact . coil problem? so renew point motor? Change leads over on switch just in case that showed it did work wired other way but still no joy . THANKS for sorting other problem for me. GJ Bob

PH Looks like that was problem , just tried and used two black switches and they seem to work when joined , thought all the coloured switches were the same . Write again after further work tomorrow. BIG THANKS GJ Bob

Just had quick look at latest reply ,so Yellow switches are a NO NO then? that might be it then as i was colour coding so thought yellow then black etc was the way to go ,will check that tomorrow and read rest of your reply , have multi meter so can do what you suggest. THANKS GJ Bob

Ok Been working on it today , still no joy . I have linked two points to the one switch , no problem , both points on that circuit would need to be switched at same time anyway so that one train can be stationary at station wile other progresses until it gets to station on other track then change . on the black wires from points l have linked them all together on a bolt and then put lead from the bolt to external CDU. Could this be the problem) Like l have already stated add another switch and nothing works , if l take that switch away and put power supply to it , it works fine . Wiring is as diagram above All parts are new Hornby apart from new gaugemaster point wiring At the moment l want to get two pairs of points working as l have five tracks on one side coming down to three tracks on the other, the central track which at the moment l am not concentrating on will have three individual points ,again all Hornby. Looking at buying Peco switching if l can't get these to work (more expense!) I was intending having a bank of 8 switch but l can't even use 2. Its almost like adding second switch it shorts out , but it's not that. Still needs more time spent on it. GJ Bob

I am putting a layout together for my grandson and am having a problem with operating the points. I have bought new Hornby switches as l suspected the problem l was having was due to faulty second hand items. With one switch it will work ok , once l load another switch ,nothing works ? I am using an external CDU as l was thinking that the internal on on my Vortex Zero Five controller was faulty, all points on board work individually ok as long as only one switch is wired on it's own . I now see after searching that Hornby switches are prone to playing up when CDUs are used , anyone have any suggestions , feeling a bit brassed off now having spent all that money on new switches which don't appear to work as a bank? Any suggestions gratefully received GJ Bob

Thanks for replies . Just confirming my thoughts . l have a Vortex , Morley controller 4 track controller and am thinking of wiring that in and seeing what difference that makes. That seems to have bells and whistles (not like a guard)ha ha! inertia braking etc As with all things modern (why change something that works perfectly and has done for years) Shocked at Hornby NEW train prices now we're revisiting train layouts . Plenty of Triang TT here . Like l say BIG THANKS for replies

Hello New to forum . Setting up layout for grandson ,and noticed that his NEW GWR High Speed train set uses a larger voltage transformer than the ones we used on our sons layout back in the 80s , is it still ok to use the lower voltage trains on the new layout given the difference in voltage, 16v & 19v.? Also noticed that the new modern controllers cut out really easily , assume this is bad connections of track as l'm going around replacing track to see if controller works , this never seemed to happen back in the 80s ,ok you expect it to short out if tracks connected by metal object , but it never had problems with continued used with loose fishplates , back then the train would just stop (controller never cut out) is this just the modern day ULTRA safe method ? Thanks for any advise GJ Bob