Geoffrey-370803

Thanks everyone for all these great responses. I shall look for the other threads. I did solder most of my droppers without flux and the results looked awful. Fortunately I put them under the rails so they don’t show. I joined a couple of flexi track using fishplate and solder on the outside of the rail, using the liquid flux, ( taking the advice from other threads and YouTube) and the aesthetic was better, though one did part when I was bending it (5th rad curve). I actually found it easier to join after bending. now, if only Hornby would get so TT120 rail joiners in stock! I’m stabbing my finger to shreds trying to fit Peco on to Hornby set track. Suppose I will have to pay as much in postage to get one of those proprietary widgets for the job. thanks again. It’s lovely to know that people with experience are willing to help newbies.

Hi all, firstly, sorry if this seems a silly question or is repeated. I am a decrepit old fogey returning to model trains after, nigh on, 58 years. I have recently started to build my first (and probably last) layout. The problem I have is, I am also new to soldering and through watch a myriad of tips via YouTube vids I have now become confused and somewhat anxious. I understand that to achieve good soldering outcomes I should use flux. Now, here is my concern. I have started to use Baker’s Fluid No. 3, which did improve my results BUT I have since seen a vid from a modeller and an article from DCC concepts which state that this product is very harmful to Nickel Silver tracks. Is this correct and if so, what is the most suitable flux to use. thanks in anticipation.