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Rallymatt

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Posts posted by Rallymatt

  1. I don’t think it’s a Hornby thing, they make their products and have an RRP. I’m more concern about the mentally unstable people who fuel the overpriced used market. @atom3624 is spot on, don’t pay sill prices! If it’s not brand new it’s 50% of new price if it’s as new. Less if it’s worn. Too many grifters in the hobby, if it’s not used models it’s trying to earn from social media, ads/sponsorships etc. 

     

  2. Ok, it’s clear that some people are trying to profiteer with Blue 08 shunter, there is one on eBay at an astronomical price of £175!!!! 
    I’m going to put this in perspective, I bought a Blue 08 off eBay a couple of weeks go for £55. Absolutely perfect so no need to be paying over the odds👍

  3. If you need a track and stock to go in or under you can stack up the height and if straight, just get away with width. For everything else it’s usable as is. If like Dave you have correct TT:120 figures next to doorways, on many models they look a tad undersize at the door itself. 😁

    • Like 1
  4. Unlikely I would buy one for High Fell (unless there is a new tunnel) but  EuroStar would surely have to be a strong candidate for the brand. From continuing the ranges that have already been established maybe an 86 or EM1/Class 76.

    Secretly I would love an early livery TGV 😁

     

    • Like 4
    • Haha 1
  5. My early TT experience with the Arnold ferry vans was that the couplings were ‘iffy’ so I swapped to the Tillig version. Ironically Continental TT modellers seem to have more issues with Tillig ones than the Kuehn that Hornby use. Now I am more experienced with TT, I think it was getting the coupling height correct that influences reliability. Some items of stock can have a KK stick which stops them coupling correctly and if only 1 metal hook engages, that can cause an uncoupling event. It’s very rare though and if they hook up correctly they stay coupled in my experience. I did have a coupling with a slightly bent metal hook, once sorted, it’s not been an issue since 

     

  6. Ok so we have a fix for the poor running 10t tankers and brake vans. 

    Credit to @david_watts1 for the reminder of the trick to repair worn axle boxes 👍

    I have tried various versions of brass axle box inserts but didn’t find any were quite right for the axle diameter and side frame dimensions…. So to the fix! 
    Remove wheel set. With a pin vice and a 1.6mm drill bit, carefully ream out the axle box, be careful not to break through the axle box moulding. clean away swarf. Fill the enlarged axle box with bicarbonate of soda. Brush excess away from inner of the side frame, if the level is slightly below that’s fine. Pop a drop of superglue into powder. It will set fast and hard. Leave to set for a couple of hours longer. Open up frames and insert axle, it will be tight, position the wheel centrally in relation to the outer axle box moulding. Squeeze gently and rotate the wheels. That should leave a ‘witness mark’ in the newly filled area. Remove wheels. With a 1.2mm drill bit in a pin vice, carefully machine a new hole, it is approximately .6mm deep so not much at all. Brush away the swarf and refit the wheel set. When it’s right the axle will spin very freely but no oscillation in the hole. 
    video to follow 😁
     

    • Like 6
  7. I would have rung Hornby and asked for a new bogie/sent loco back for some fettling. That does seem a bit extreme. As Nick says, these things have been sorted before. I still think it’s worth calling Hornby and seeing what they can send you. 
    Is it the driving wheel contacts that caused an issue? It’s possible the chassis is slightly distorted, in which case CS should be able to help. A few early Pacifics did have chassis swaps

  8. Yes and yes. If you check the description of any Hornby loco in the webshop, online catalogue etc, it will identify the decoder socket it is made with. Always check, never assume! All the HM DCC/7000 sound decoders come with a speaker and a range of enclosures to maximise the flexibility of the system. So far non trainset steam locos (TT:120) have come with the speaker already pre fitted using contact pins to connect to the PCB with the decoder socket on. Meaning you may end up not needing to fit the speaker from the decoder pack. We will have to see with the Duchess if that continues. I think the recent HSTs came without speakers on the DC supplied packs. 

  9. I would say yes, to date there are no differences in the pre fitted locos and non fitted other than having the decoder/speaker factory installed. The TT:120 Duchess has a Next18 decoder socket, don’t buy a 21pin for it! 

  10. I had time to do a video on weathering  the TTA tankers today. Hope it’s useful and a few have a go at weathering. As always I recommend trying out a few techniques on things that don’t matter first or possibly something inexpensive to build confidence. The tankers are quite nice to weather as the shape lends itself to an easy model to work with and you can’t really go too far wrong. I included to bits on how to ‘remove’ excess and lose hard edges etc so you can always ‘get it back’ 😁

    https://youtu.be/dC1gJxVwgt4?si=gaORXG9K9TnyRSum

     

    • Like 5
  11. Something to feed back is that on the welcome screen, if accessing via a phone (All I use these days) the image of the loco stretches off the screen where as all the other bits fit neatly in. 
    On the fly changes works well because users can also feed back issues that developers might not get chance to pick up on so quickly 😁

    • Like 1
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