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Too Tall

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Posts posted by Too Tall

  1. @gc4946, you are very naughty !

    Wow that Class 2MT looks fantastic and has now gone straight to my wish list for my 00 layout BR period. sooo tempting but I haven't even got track down yet and still need la fair amount era 3 stuff !

    Looking at the detail, it would be quite a feat in TT120, but yes please 😁

  2. Handily, I pre-empted this and cancelled all my pre-orders. All spare funds ATM diverted to the OO project in the shed for the warmer months (which its supposed to be now 🙄).

    The TT layout will be revisited during the winter months, as that is in the house. I might have some catching up to do by then 😄

    • Like 1
  3. I came up with this, because of the width there are a couple of R1's with a R2 lead in on inner loops, but as you are running diesels, it should be traversable.

    Room for station at top, plenty of shunting or  parking in the middle.

    This is using Hornby Set track, I would normally say use peco, but with the tighter turns the wider track spacing of the set track would be beneficial.

    Parts list also there, right click and select open full size for better view.

    ttsugpt.jpg

    ttsug.jpg

    • Like 5
  4. I believe these are similar to what is fited in current TT120 locos Mini N20 DC 6V-12V High Speed Micro 10mm*12mm Motor Dual 1mm Shaft DIY Slot Car | eBay

    I bought some "just in case" and haven't yet had to use any, so can't be 100% sure they are like for like but if you can solder 2 wires and have a worm puller it may be worth  getting a few spares. Obviously sending back to Hornby is better under warranty and also serves to let Hornby know if failure is common.

    • Like 1
  5. Long shot, but do you have a surge protected mains socket or adaptor where the controller is plugged into ?

    If not, get one. It may not be the issue here, but its worth trying and it is worth having regardless.

     

    • Like 1
  6. Like many, I used Metcalfe N gauge buildings (the engine shed, terraced houses, pub) as they are not far out. On my engine shed I used balsa to lift it, and closer spacing on  the tracks to fit 2 locos.

    Just be aware some (usually continental) N gauge stuff will be smaller than a lot of British N gauge stuff due to European N gauge being 1:160, as opposed to 1: 148 used in the UK. I have some older plastic kits (of a church and farmhouse) which look to be more 1:160, but as I used these on a part of the layout that I wanted some forced perspective on, it worked out well for me. I also used an N dock crane, as a yard crane, as it represented what I wanted to achieve despite being a lot closer to 1:160.

    I think most Metcalfe stuff sits pretty much between 1:148 and 1:120 so works well., At the end of the day  its all down to what you feel is a satisfactory compromise. We all have our own interpretation of rule #1 🙂

    • Like 2
  7. In all things ebay there are scalpers and profiteers, best not feed the trolls.

    But I agree with supply and demand analogy. If you are after something, use the sold/completed auction filters to get an idea of what they have been sold for previously.

    I did this on a recent purchase, and used it as ammo to negotiate with sellers  that had make offer options on their listing. One politely said I won't budge on price (so why put a make offer option on ? ) so I left it, another obviously looked into it, and then accepted my offer, which was a little above the last one sold, but well below their asking price.

    I must admit, I don't like bidding so avoid it unless I can't get what I want, but when selling I usually have a start 99p and it gets what people are willing to pay, often it's not what I want, but obviously was the best I would get at that time.

    As always seems to be the way, I bought 2 08's in the BR blue to repaint, thinking that livery was going to be a mainstay and would always be around,  Turns out predicting these things is not my forte 😄

     

  8. I always like to have the correct profile, but TBH I really wouldn't know the difference. Steam locos are my cup of tea, but apart from videos and preserved loco's I would have no clue as to how they really sounded. So I guess for me, if the actual loco sound file is not available, I would be happy for something similar (ie same amount of cylinders and region, preferably also wheel arrangement although no idea if that changes anything) !

  9. It depends on where you want to fit it, and how much room you have. I used the LaisDCC one on my class 08's with Zimo 6 pin decoders but they look to be selling out fast. I dare say the DCC concept ones may also work, although I haven't tried them. 

    It would be best to check with Rails or the decoder instructions to see if/what stay alives are recommended.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  10. I used self adhesive ones, as long as the backing board is properly sealed they stick well.

    In fact the ones that were behind my ex slot car track, may well be repurposed for the shed layout, as they are still looking good after 5 years.

    I.D. backscenes  they were IIRC, not cheap but the high quality ones really do last well.

  11. Yep a very solid and tidy layout, I think that deserves some extended testing sessions (or playing trains as my daughter tells me*) before any more work !

    Overbudget ? Even though I plan as much as I can (maybe too much) I always manage that !

    * I have to remind her of a Peppa Pig episode  to paraphrase, "They are not toy trains, they are min-i-a-ture locomotives 😄

    • Like 2
  12. I often wonder why people don't just fit a "normal" Decoder , sound or non in, but then remember not everyone has a DCC controller !

    I did find a nice sort of compromise for my 00 build. A Sig-Na-Trax Ace 3 controller. Its a touch screen system with similar features to HM7k in terms of sliding bars for accel and decel settings, and named buttons for sound, but obviously not blue tooth. there is also the ability to connect a wired remote button and dial controller.

    Although price wise, similar to an Ellite, so could well put it out of reach of many. I know they will be implementing more features in future software updates, including Express net, but wouldn't imagine it would work with the HM7k Dongle unless they had demand for it.

    My advice for a low cost option is grab yourself a SH Select (but try to find one with the latest firmware as that can not be user updated) and run a regular Decoder (non sound for low cost) until there is a 6 pin sound HM7k available.

    • Like 3
  13. Both my railways have/will have Either Era 3 or 4 (not at the same time) and from regions that could have feasibly had shared lines in the case of era 3.

    Era 3 TT120 is LNER with a splash of LMS allowed (although pre-orders for the LMS stuff has been cancelled to concentrate on OO during the summer months). Era 3 00 will be GWR/LMS. If running Era 4 any UK locos of the period, and maybe can stretch to some early era 5 if what I like is not available as an era 4 version.

    I try to keep within the earliest period for landscaping, and freight rolling stock anything from 3-4 is allowed .But a certain flexibility for things I want is covered in rule #1 😆

    possibly a mixed bag of rules, but It makes sense to me at least. 🤪

  14. If you need conversion for measurements, a search engine will bring up plenty of conversion pages 😏

    Here is the track plan for Millwood using Hornby/Tillig track:

    mb.thumb.jpg.bd8db8f3ac33474ba2e6d24f9de4514d.jpg

    And here is one I was working on for the next layout, before I decided to change scales. This is with Peco track, but as SCARM does not yet have the peco x-overs in its library, i temporarily used the Hornby ones for the plan.

    The Purple track would have been hidden incline and declines (1.9%), allowing the branch line a short airing on the upper level and access to and from the mainline.

    The black is a single track base level branch line with shunting able to be done without entering the branch line itself, the blue is the upper level dual main line, and the green is the upper level part of the branch line and shared access to  the turntable.

     

    sl.thumb.jpg.540e36c2486c572036db251d0c9c4cd1.jpg

    • Like 4
  15. Cheers gents, I have not heard a 28mm old school speaker myself, hence I didnt know if they might be as good as newer but smaller ones. Usually bigger = better with speakers in this size !

  16. My going home set arrived, and was indeed new sealed and mint.

    It did have an issue .. no pickup working on the loco wheels (tenders were fine). After taking the loco apart to find no issue, I then found culprit in the tender ... a  wire had broken off the 8 pin board, a quick re-solder and all is well 😊 I am  perfectly happy with the older model !

  17. Hi guys, I realise that the 28mm speakers are long in the tooth, so my question is are they decent or are there better alternatives to fit ?

    I did find a bass enhanced 27mm but it was only 4 ohm, and I understand Hornby decoders need an 8 ohm.

  18. 14 hours ago, Pendragon Sailing said:

    Correct, Too Tall. That profile is not on the list (yet), but you might consider using the 2MT or maybe the 4F, in the meantime.

    Ok sounds like a plan. TBH I have no idea what would sound similar so that's a help. Is the Prairie likely to be done does anyone know ?

    Also what might be similar to a GWR pannier ?

    I could always use a non BT sound decoder TBH, as my 00 layout will have its own controller, but HM7k decoders are cheaper and make it a breeze to adjust settings, but IDK if say, adjustments to accel decel settings made on BT will remain once its under DCC control ? 

  19. I can understand no profile for Locos that Hornby haven't made as DCC ready, but there are some missing that are ... unless I am missing it (more than possible !)

    I have a Hornby DCC ready Large Prairie, but I can not see it on the list ?

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