John-347493

Thanks, Andy. Wish this forum had a like button :-)

Not sure if this is limited to Scalextric or not, but I have a few cars that have trouble drifting in turns. It's hard to describe maybe and I haven't had time to make a video. The cars seem to drift fine up to a point, but if they drift too far away from the rails, perhaps 15 degrees or so, then violently bounce back in the other direction back towards the rails and then de-slot. It seems as though the guide blade gets stuck or reaches a hard limit of how far it will rotate then bounces back quickly the other way. Not all my cars do this, but the ones that do it really takes away from the fun. To me drifting is like the best part of racing, approaching being out of control / too fast, but then recovering. One car I have that does this is the "Scalextric Porsche 911 3.0 RSR Jagermeister 1:32 Slot Race Car C4211 Orange" Thanks

I'd say if you wanted 4 lanes, then go analog at which point you could have two power stations, one for each pair. I agree with Andy, spreading out digital cars on 4 lanes sort of defeats the purpose of some contact and passing etc. The number of lane changers and single lane track you'd need to allow for lane changing across 4 lanes would be really expensive and the lane changers themselves require more power as well. I had a blast with my 4 lane HO setup. We would race where each driver had to race 2 minutes on each lane and switch. Don't think the ARC software supports that, but I think you could get third party PC software to do it.

So my friends and I raced with my new set last night. Great fun! We crash a lot and are using the yellow flag function in the ARC app. We find that the cars often get stuck on the lane change track as we are not going fast enough. We are not actually trying to change lanes during the caution (yellow flag). We tried increasing the calibration speed, but it didn't seem to increase the mac speed during yellow as I thought it would. Maybe we need to crank it up more? Anyone else have this issue?

Thanks, Andy. Wish these forums had a like button.

I just go the LeMans C1404T set and am enjoying it so far. I'm sure it'll be even better when I add some more track to it. Can't really get the cars going to fast as is. Speaking of track I realize that the set comes with extra long straights (C8505) and 90 degree R2 (C8529). Near as I can tell you can't buy these outside of a set. I was about to toss the box the set came in and store it in a plastic bin only to find the straights don't fit ;-(. I have to search for a new, larger bin I guess. I wonder why they did this. Is it to save on costs? Make it easier for beginners to assemble layouts? I suppose they are handy and good for bridges, but otherwise harder to store.

Thanks, Andy. This is kind of what I thought.

I have searched here and elsewhere, but have a few unanswered questions: 1) Pace car available in all modes or just the specific pace car mode? 2) Is there anything special about each of the modes or do they differ in just certain options are hidden in some of the modes? 3) Why do we need to select the track set? Is that simply to do the speed calculations and conversions to MPH? What happens once I buy more track expansions and add them to make the layout larger? Won't all that be off then? Thanks.

I realize this is an old thread, but I came here to ask this same question after trying my new set for the first time yesterday. It really feels like the cars brake either by reversing the motor as they do in race centers with a third controller wire and/or the effect of the traction magnets. To me it seems the brake button really is only used to signal pit stops to ARC. I don't mind that, to be honest. I'm so accustomed to using just the throttle to drive / brake all these years I kind of prefer it. I wired my home HO track with three wires and the strong magnet cares stopped abruptly no matter what. It was fun with the non-magnet and T Jet cars.