DJN

I bought one in Hornbys' Bank Holiday sale, for £277. Its firmware is at version 1.45 . For software am looking into the pros and cons of RailMaster & JMRI.

I have now fitted a Dapol Imperium 3 and run in my Black 5. The running in was completed on a rolling road due to problems crossing Hornby points. These included a derailment of the front bogie leading to sparks flying as the loco short-circuited . I will look at adjustments to the bogie but really my points were the problem here. No issues from the tender connection when negotiating 2nd radius curves. The fire box flickers, but the lights remain off - a default setting of this decoder ?

So it turned out that an old "Super detailed" 8F tender is a bit heavier than the the ,fairly weighty, new Black 5 one. Well it does contain a weight. Coal load was missing though 😐 (beware of eBay vendor using term "Lovely Loco"). As for the Black 5 , I now doubt its die-cast credentials.

Recently got a second-hand 8F from eBay 🤔 . Haven't tested it yet, but could do the weigh-in and then post comparison photos of the two tenders.

My Black 5 arrived yesterday - direct from Hornby. It has some nicely painted pipework and, it would seem, a die cast running plate. The boiler feels plastic. Weight of loco: 261 gms Tender : 101gms Haven't looked inside the tender to learn why it is comparatively heavy. For comparison with my other Hornby Mixed traffic 4-6-0: GWR Grange loco: 215gms Tender: 73gms

I have a loco that lurches forward a few inches and then stops whenever my Select controller is powered up. There are known compatibility issues between my controller and decoder; which now seems stuck in DC mode. Does your loco respond to a 9V battery test ?

My R2402 (Hardwick Grange) is ,another ebay ."bargain" locomotive with issues. Chiefly it wont run unless the tender is connected. Ie the locomotive wheels are not picking up any power. I've bought a new chassis bottom contacts set and (before disassembling) am wondering where to wire it in ? The service sheet doesn't make this clear. Nb a 9 volt battery across the contacts runs the motor and there is continuity between each wheel and the contact on its side

Ok, then an LNER insulated Fish Van would do - though all the Hornby ones seem to be ex LNER. I have a 4 wheel LMS CCT van on order (R6640A), which is labeled "XP". So have enough vans, of various sorts to compose a train thumbsup

The Hornby LMS horse box fits two of the suggested Express Freight criteria in that it is Maroon and does have vacuum pipes coiled at each end..

I read about the concept of Express freight in an article by the LMS Society , which mentioned that the rolling stock had to be vacuum braked. I was wondering which vans from the Hornby range would be suitable for such freight trains? Currently I have a small collection of LMS 6 wheelers (insulated milk and Sausage) and the R6836 Box Van pack on order. Thanks in advance, for any info or references.

Thanks for those tips and the info re motors. The most difficult part of this exercise was re-fitting the body shell _ I made a loose sleeve from insulation tape to hold the decoder in the smoke box with the plug alongside.

Think I might need a spare motor of the type as I now have three 0-6-0s . Will follow Hornby guidance for Thomas doing the conversion. Though I seem to have a surfeit of capacitors.

Well I've ordered a second hand LMS maroon Jinty from Hattons . It looks identical to a more expensive "mint" offering on eBay (without a box). If so it will have a type 'M' motor. Perhaps even a DCC socket, but I ain't counting on that. The slot car fraternity use the term "strap motor" for the motors in some vintage F1 slots.

I read about a Hornby version (no. 16440) on the Hattons web-site, that was described as having a Ringfield motor. - they have sold out. I also came across the term "slot-car" motor which I guess means open-frame. The reference from 96RAF looks like what I need to emulate for DCC wiring . Thx

I am looking for an 0-6-0 "Jinty" tank engine with a view to DCC conversion. I note there are several variants in LMS maroon livery that are DCC compatible. The older one has a Ringfield motor and the 2009 version is, I presume, made in China with a sealed motor. Would there be any difference from the point of view of the ease of conversion? Also which motor would be best, in DCC form ,for shunting?

..to complete disassembly required removal of the chassis weight. Cylinder block assembly note: do not exert any sideways leverage on the connecting rods or they will pop out of the crosshead (as caused the original issue).

Need to install the complete new unit (shown in foreground). Old one in chassis is unbolted from chassis but not moving vertically.

I hope to install the replacement piston chest unit at the weekend, but having unbolted the old it seems reluctant to come out. Any advice on how to proceed without breaking the delicate linkages illustrated?

This is the broken connection to the piston rod. The press fit of the connecting rod to the crosshead won't stay put.

Thanks for the references and opinions re the various King Class piston rode assemblies. I had looked at Service sheets 206B and 260D which seemed to show relevant parts packaged as spare X9110, but service sheet 416 doesn't show a "rotating cross" riveted to the end of the connecting rod. Will proceed by body removal:, disengaging the lugs of the piston rod frame and unbolting the cylinder block. Looks like there should be a press fit between the cross thingy and the piston rod assembly.

I had to unbolt this linkage rod as it was stuck outside the piston rod support frame which itself had detached from the lower under frame lug. I am now having difficulty getting the linkage to engage with the piston rod whilst bolting it back on. Can anyone suggest a technique for this operation and any further disassembly that may be required. Thanks in advance for any tips.

A Select manual and its v.1.6 addendum were supplied the Mixed Traffic rain set. Key zero worked in test mode and once for programming a CV . But it has now reverted to its former condition. Ie nothing appears on the display if it is used when assigning a loco address - so addresses such as "10" or "20" can't be input. I may return it to Hornby for inspection and a possible fwr re-flash..

I wanted a working key zero to initiate the CV programming sequence - after setting a CV the unit reverted to key zero disabled. Also, the forward and reverse keys operate the opposite way round to what one would expect . I should add that my set was purchased at a discount due to damaged packaging.. So this Select may have suffered a knock or two.

Thanks for that info. RAF. The power on keys test showed that key "0" was indeed working - after a reset; to enable analogue control, the numeral 0 could be input at the Select keyboard. robot_face

Hello, I am using a Select controller that came with the Mixed Traffic train set. Its version 1.16 . POST = 20 30 03 I have been able to program locomotive addresses and rate of speed change. However, the "0" key doesn't work and this number can't be entered as a part of any operation. Have tried cleaning the key , but to no avail. Will return to Hornby if nothing further to try... My question is: After a controller reset what programming operations would l I need to repeat for each loco?