Help needed with camouflage technique

[Carl Stratford]

Hi! I have fairly recently got back into the crazy wacked -out world of construction kits after a long (15 years)break, and while my 'skills' (ha!) are improving, largely thanks to hints and tips from forums here and elsewhere, I am still having problems in one specific area.

In painting cleaned and dried aircraft in 1/72nd and 1/48th scale, I find that with the use of appropriate brushes and Humbrol acrylic paints, the base layers are going on and finishing up beautifully. However.. when it comes to overlaying (mainly British) large areas of disruptive pattern colours (e.g, Dark Green over Earth or Grey) i don't seem able to get clean edges of demarcation, or a reasonable appearance in the 'patches'. I use a smaller brush for the patches, and thin the paint as per the rest of the model, but my efforts are always slightly disappointing, compared to how smooth and even the base coat is. I don't get along with airbrushes, and don't expect the same level of finish with my hairy sticks, but having seen some of the results achievable, I wondered if any of the good people here might be able to suggest any helpful tips.

Thanks for reading and happy modelling!

[DavidJC]

It's worth persevering if you can with an airbursh. Painting with a traditional brush can give good results, but the airbrush will always be superior. Believe me I had to practice practice practice with differing levels of paint-to-thinner, air pressures, distance to model, all of it.

 

However, demarcation for camouflage? I don't do a great deal of camouflaged aircraft for the reason I find it difficult, however, I have used Frisk film. It's a low-tack clear film which can be cut with a sharp scalpel easily enough. I've used either the kit instructions or used book references etc to scale up on a copier camouflage patterns, overlay the Frisk film over the copied plan on a lightbox then cut the Frisk film that way. Apply to the model, burnish down well (you should be ok as it's fairly low-tack) and paint away.

 

Or, a new (to me) product, Tamiya flexible tape. Vinyl looking and feeling it's a thin white self-adhesive tape which bends and curves remarkably well and can be used for camouflage patterns, even RAF WW2 shapes. Tape the edges of the colour you're masking, then fill in the rest with Maskol or other methods.

 

The problem is with any overpainting, though particularly by traditional brush, is edge build up against the masking. Somehow I always end up with a ridge of some sort, even if with an airbrush now this isn't anywhere near as bad as traditional brush. Still, with a final coat of varnish this does sort of knock the ridge back a bit at least.

 

Hope this helps.

[Oliver Hyett]

i agree 

use an airbrush

good starter is a badger 200

or an Volimart

[Dad Paul B]

For aircraft camouflage I have moved away from the all over base coat to doing each colour seperately. Matt colours are fairly tolerant but you will see a difference as the colour match is designed for a lightish grey primer. Going over the first camo colour with the second tends to reduce the contrast which may be part of your problem.

I brush paint by hand and have been happy with results (satin finishes are much harder as getting a streak free coat is really difficult). I suggest keep experimenting with colours and methods. Try not to line the second colour too finely at the beginning as this can show up. Sticking to a larger soft brush usually works ok and don't be afraid of multiple coats.

[Carl Stratford]

Thanks for the advice people. I can see that I'm going to be busy with more Spitfires...