Track Improvements

[GregWoods]

These fall into 2 categories... technical and cosmetic

Technical

I have to say that I don't see a big improvement of the Sport track over the old classic track. The use of a solid 'pin' instead of the old lugs which could snap off is a big improvement, but I still get issues with track that doesn't transfer power well.

In other fields such as radio controlled models, if you are transferring high amps through a connector, they generally have some form of spring action to force the conducting surfaces together. The "deans" connector is a good example fo this. In fact the deans connector spring action is so strong, you would even need the fiddler "barbed" plastic connectors!

However, I accept that the track connection mechanism is unlikely to change, as poor as it is, but it does tempt me to go routed wood.

Cosmetic

Black? Still? After all these years?  When was last time you saw jet black tarmac? You didn't.Even grey primer is closer to the colour of a real road or racetrack than Scaley pure glossy black.

Even if the plastic was toned down a couple of shades of grey, it would be a hug improvement in realism. 

An additional advantage of grey is that you may even get real rubber marks on the track.

For additional added value and realism, pre-painted track could include skid marks and possibly even the look of a rubbered in racing line. Admittedly there is a challenge making it join up correctly and so the design doesn't repeat too often, but it would add value - something which is sorely needed, since slot racing's cost is high for such a technologicaly backwards system.

A third option is to join up with Humbrol and produce track painting kits. Cleaner, primer, paint, applicators, instructions and hints/tips.

Any thoughts on this, or is everyone happy with black?

 

 

[Andy P.]

Hi Greg,

There are a few tips on fixing connectivity:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWIquWfWIbk

and addingin "jumpers":

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lu31KZKezR4

Some also use copper tape with conductive adhesive. I plan on taking the tips outm putting down tape and then putting the tips back in. :-)

[GregWoods]

Thanks Andy

I had already done the "tab-tightening" - a labouroious process that is difficult to get right. I do use one set of jumpers, but getting them the right way around is tricky... you can't test polarity with digital. I have even modified one piece of track in the circuit with soldered wires underneath which joins both sets of rails together (I run only digital), so helping iron out voltage drops. Doing this for every piece of track would help a lot, but would ruin my track for analog use.

Add to that light oxidisation due to the cheap nature of the steel plated rails, and we still have a system that lacks reliability especially on circuits over a couple of meters in length.

I used copper tape on an old classic track. But I taped over the joins on larger sections of track. It worked well, but made the circuit very permanent!

[Andy P.]

I used copper tape on an old classic track. But I taped over the joins on larger sections of track. It worked well, but made the circuit very permanent

The beauty of the classic track is that because you have "lever" them together you can warp the "male" end in tape and then fold about 2-3 mm into the " female" end of the track and the tape will not bulge up when you connect pieces togther.

It also means you get a "copper-to-copper" connection and are not relying solely on the conductive adhesive.

I haven't done any SPORT track yet but I am thinking of pulling the peg out, wrapping the tape inside and then reinserting the peg...