Andy P.

Hi There, I get your point for sure. In theory, since Hornby switched to most cars having the same wheel size a few years ago (at 1/32 scale the size between 13, 14 and 15 inch wheels is barely perceptible) I would argue a lot of the newer cars would be interchangeable, especially if car is of a similar era and/or series (Trans Am cars for example). It is mostly just bandwidth of the employees. Scalextric is somewhat smaller than say Hornby trains and updating such a list would take time. Sometimes the reason though is down to licensing. Sometimes they are allowed to write "Goodyear" sometimes they are not. A few years ago Carrera got bad feedback because their NASCAR model had "Carrera" on the tires instead of "Goodyear" but it was down to licensing. So it could be the case that they have to differentiate for legal reasons (mildly pathetic I know). To provide a bit of a positive spin it though, a lot of forums have maintained databases that show tire sizes etc,. and we could even entertain setting up something like that here!

Mostly likely lane change sensor: http://www.janestrains.co.uk/ScalextricTrackCodes.html it should have a 3.5 mm "headphone" jack on the end (that bottom part of the "T") to connect and power/send the signal to the lane changing curve piece. There were also lap counting pieces as part of the "Sport World" set up but I think they had a module on the side. Good luck!

Yep. Typical case of bad track connection and/or bad braids and/or bad wiring and/or lots of schmutz and dreck on the axles and/or wheels. Since the car speeds up on some sections I would start with the track first. https://uk.scalextric.com/community/advice/track-maintenance You have an overpass that also might cause a bad connection. There is a "wunder" product called INOX that you can use on the track to help conductivity. Failing that I have used Ballistol for years. It even comes with little wipees, i.e. application clothe. It is amazing ho much corrosion can be on the track that is not visible... I would then open the car up and inspect and oil it. Good luck!

Riko Rocket stills supports it to a degree I believe... He can be found on the Slotforum.com...

Firstly: Unless you have an Olympic pool sized room at your disposal you probably will not get the track absolutely scale-accurate. Secondly: Do a google search, more than likely someone has done it already. Thirdly: Try out a track layout planner. Popular choices are AnyRail, RaiulMaster and Ultimate racer. While they usually don`t let you save in the free version you can at least plan the whole thing out and make adjustments. Tip: "Print" the final layout on as a PDF. I have also opened up multiple windows of the software and then saved sections of the track using the maximum number of pieces allowed. Fourthly: Here are the radii and their measurements: https://slot32.de/overview_radius_scalextric_curves,pid,9494,rid,937,produktdetail.html Fifthly: Don`t be afraid of buying used track. This time of year people are selling off the stuff they got for Christmas. That means track from layouts will be available for cheap. There are 90° R2 curves (like maybe for Copse, Becketts and Stowe) and super long straights that are slight more than a straight and half that will make building the track go faster and also reduce the number of connections you have. Just giving it a rough eye ball I would reckon you are using a lot of R2s (as mentioned above) and R3. Maybe an R4 or two for Woodcote. Good luck!

I have never tried it but I reckon if you isolate the pit lane and then apply say 5 volts from a battery pack that ought to slow things down.... That does mean losing contact to the powerbase though which may cause other problems...

Hi There and welcome, This has been asked a myriad of times here and other places on the interwebs so please try the search function here and on the global internet as most of your questions concerns will be addressed there. As with most things in life the answer is "yes but..": You will need a converter track C8222 to get to old track and new track to hook up: https://uk.scalextric.com/products/converter-straight-x-2-c8222 The older tracks' slot is shallower. Newer cars may "bottom out" with the guide blade rubbing the bottom. There are new app-enhanced options that add pitstops and lap times form the ARC series that you may wan to entertain: https://uk.scalextric.com/community/advice/app-race-control These will work with your old cars as well as long as they have a black (or blackened) guide blade. Good luck!

You have 15 minutes after you post to go back and edit. Rationale is if you go back later and make a change the thread might become unintelligible. I can ask to have this increased but that seems to be the standard most of the time...

That`s what I was talking about. 🙂

Yep sound like something is amiss in the chip. It is digital enough to "chirp" (which is correct behavior) but something else must have come loose or is broken. Very rarely binding the car to a different color might help because the different colors are basically different infrared frequencies (not 100% technically correct but good enough) and the fault might only show itself in certain frequencies. Chances are though you will want a new chip...

The Magic App has an option that when a car pits (regardless of where on the track) a lap is added. That is the easiest work around... I have used standard half straights in pitlanes so I always assumed they were the same length as the single straight pieces...

Nice! Scalextric/Hornby have had rough economic times for many years so they have to be very judicious on what they spend money on. I can actually get the old track designer to work in compatibility mode but figuring out how to set a table size was too tricky so I went with AnyRail... I have a small suggestion: Take out the half straight after the ARC PRO powerbase and move the powerbase to the left. You can then add a half straight (single or regular i.e. 2-lane) inside the pit lane and make it a little more usable. :-) One other thing: Maybe it is the picture but it appears as if you have the lane changer in the middle the wrong way round. Over all a good digital layout! Have fun!

The Ford GT`s motor is of a slim can type that revs higher faster than the other 13D/Mabuchi style motor. You may want to explore different gearing (whether it is called higher or lower depends on whom you ask) i.e. have larger pinion or small crown gear to slow the acceleration down. This will mean you will have a higher top speed but on most home tracks that is not usually an issue. On tires/tyres: Most racers wipe them down after truing. Some use alcohol or white spirits. Personally I think that dries them out. Some use suntan lotion.... I use a lint-free clothe with the smallest, thinnest drop of Ballistol on it. I run the car a few laps and then wipe with a dry cloth. I then use masking tape on the rears to get any lint or dust off of them. I repeat that after every stint. Some argue that you need to get rubber on the crack and have a "mule" car (or two) that has the widest tires possible and run it for a few hundred laps, wiping and/or cleaning (using masking tape) the tires every 10-20 laps. I personally don`t have time to run mules usually...

Nope. There is a system out there called "Oxigen" that I think can use wireless. If you want wireless you can use ARC PRO.

https://support.scalextric.com/hc/en-gb/articles/360016169439-Contact-Details-Hornby-Hobbies-UK