Wiring clarification on Getting Started with Track extension Packs

[Castle-Man]

Could I just clarify something on the figure 16 diagram.

I will be using Packs A-D, 2 controllers and DC only.  My question relates to the R8201 Link wire.  Could I please confirm that these are both connected to the Inner oval and that they are wired Left to Left and Right to Right track. 

I am assuming that they are needed to make certain that the right side of the oval is live even if points are open.

thanks

 

[trainlover23]

 If you are using two controllers you DO NOT need the link wires

[Chrissaf]

Castle-Man,

.

Note quite correct. The R8201 is connected to the OUTER oval (not the inner one) to bridge each side of the very top point (turnout) connected to the upper siding. Note that the R8201 wires included in the packet are too short to allow the clips to reach each side of the outer oval point (turn out). The wires will either need to be extended by splicing in some extra wire length. Yes, the rail polarity left to left and right to right needs to be maintained.

OR

Make your own custom R8201 link wire using 2 x R8242 Digital power clips with custom length wire terminated with Hornby X8011 crimp pins. Note: R8242 power clips are the same type of clips that are normally included as part of the R8201 kit.

.

The purpose of the R8201 shown in my diagram is to ensure the right hand side of the outer oval always has power on it regardless of the point (turnout) positions. There is a situation where if the top point is switched to the siding, at the same time as the cross-over points to the right hand side of the level crossing are switched to the cross-over position. The outer oval on the right hand side will loose power. The R8201 isn't essential if you are happy to live with this particular operational limitation.

.

I do accept however, that having both these sets of points thrown as described at the same time is unlikely, as that scenario does not set up a usable route for a loco to follow. The use of the R8201 in this scenario is just an Insurance Policy.

[trainlover23]

 I beg to differ why do you need the link wires ?????????????????????????????

[Chrissaf]

Read the document section being referred to, then ask the question. The link wires being questioned ARE NOT linking the inner and outer ovals together.

.

Why ? - is explained in my last two paras of my last reply.

[Castle-Man]

Thanks Chrissaf.  That makes sense on the outer loop now I have got my head around it.  I was confused if it was on the inner becuase with the controller positioned where it was power would go around to that section even with no points open as there was a straight point free run at the top

Yes it is probaby not likely to that I will hit the one scenario in which it would happen.  However it keeps things complete which could make life easier.

I am sticking to the midimap at the moment so only A-D.  I think if I was to extending more then rather than the extension at the bottom just going to a split loco shed, with a little more space I would of built that into a fiddle yard isolating it and introducing a 3rd. controller.  That way you could leave locos running indipendantly on both ovals while shunting out on the right.   Just a thought..

[trainlover23]

Read the document section being referred to, then ask the question. The link wires being questioned ARE NOT linking the inner and outer ovals together.

.

Why ? - is explained in my last two paras of my last reply.

I fall asleep long before that part

[Castle-Man]

I suppose with a permanent layout and if wires arn't long enough then the best way would be to get the correct wire and solder it straight to the side of the track.

Seems to have gone out of fashion these days but done properly it gives the best solution.  No worry about contacts moving or getting dirty.   And as this is just track to track you can house it under the board all neat and tidy.  Just don't melt the sleepers.

[Chrissaf]

I agree Castle-Man. Personally all my connections are direct wire soldered terminations. Many however, are reluctant to solder. Hence the predominance of using standard Hornby parts, where possible in the PDF. My document doesn't necessarily reflect my own personal views about track wiring.