Jump to content

GWR 51XX


Go_West

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 230
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

@Ken

According to my dodgy big-sums:

Circumference = Π x D

63,360“ in a mile, hence 7,920,000” travelled at 125 MPH.

Pacific steamer 6’ diam drivers at 125 MPH turn at 584 RPM

And Class 43 HST 40” diam wheels at 125 MPH turn at 1050 RPM.

Do not rely upon these figures without checking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi joe

not out the woods yet still problems around the corner no doubt Rob took the time to work out wheel speeds which i did ask Alexa and i think she agreed i say think as she runs on if you ask her someing complicated which reminds me of a bloke i worked with if he was unsure he would run on like a that hoping to wear you down with rubbish.

i was never that good at maths so will pass i can remember at school the teacher saying 3d a hundred weight how much a ton? i would be thinking of what would i want a ton of? and if i did buy it where would i keep it?

but back to the engine and now i'm looking at the following..........

Having run the engine for some time now and happy with its performance finishing off some of the other parts can be under taken.The tender boiler being one of the next jobs as it was thought that heat generated here might damage the servo motor and so some lagging was fitted.The front section had a thick heat proof mat glued in place as here in these pictures.

/media/tinymce_upload/0ed56a7f7132ee726c84e0c7c6cf11e1.jpg

 The rest of the boiler had a thinner material  glued all around the surfaces of the boiler the reason for the thinner covering was that the boiler is a very tight fit on the inside of the body sides.

/media/tinymce_upload/7a64dc381db983b52f728e33a5ec8ee9.jpg

The next thing to tackle was the front boggy wheels the wheels I was using were some in my spares box not sure what they were for but these Hornby wheels along with the truck fitted perfectly the only problem I had was some times they would short out on the cylinder covers. Others may have found this out with there live steam engines if curves are too tight.

To resolve this problem I decided to make the wheel centres a little smaller and then make up some new tyres.

/media/tinymce_upload/6bc329bd3c4595e16a1c4d6f5930642c.jpg

But first I noticed there was a lot of sideways movement on the axle in the frames all due to the fact that the hole through the casting was a bit on the large size so some brass bearings were made up and pressed in place as in this picture.

The wheels had there old tyres machined off and the black plastic centres also machined down a faction.

/media/tinymce_upload/0dda1d02f6889d474fe7295f7d4658c6.jpg

Then the new tyres were machined up from stainless steel as in this picture here and pressed onto the plastic wheel centres.

/media/tinymce_upload/b0e2de5e85367b6b96d64997706be132.jpg

Once the wheels and tyres were all made up the flange out side diameter was machined down to a set size and the back of the wheel flange was machined to give a good true running finish.

/media/tinymce_upload/392f5cffd360d885fbbbba42fcf74943.jpg

Here you see the 2 wheels complete and ready to fit in the truck frames I did spin them to make sure they had no wobbling side to side and they looked great.

/media/tinymce_upload/185ba158a944f528a4115ac66997c7e3.jpg

/media/tinymce_upload/332222dca78b4f9ae6badd74bedace22.jpg

The wheels in place a test run will prove if all this has worked of cause what will happen when the body is fitted I’m not sure there could be a problem with the wheels shorting on the front buffer beam but we will cross that bridge when we come to it.

Next the safety valve changes.

There was at least a 4 mm gap between the top of the supper heater and the inside top of the boiler shell and a short copper pipe which would run from the Hornby safety valve to the GWR type safety valve might just work./media/tinymce_upload/45346e08e7c487a5cfbbcd31e6f4cbb5.jpg

The picture and drawing here shows the lay out of the parts./media/tinymce_upload/a280d45f76f2c0a75dbe500e6680d363.jpg

The parts were made up as you can see in the pictures here notice the small hole in the copper pipe this should line up with the GWR| bonnet, testing will prove how successful this will be.

Next thing to build was the oil tank switch.

/media/tinymce_upload/020584ebc945d7639d11928507cf553d.jpg

This pictures shows the parts to the switch that replaces the Hornby switch fitted to the regulator arm.

The switch contact is connected to the printed board at the rear of the chassis to work the LED.

I’m not sure if I will use the 2 colour LED as an indicator or just a single red LED.The light from the LED will shine via a fibre optic cable to the engines rear oil lamp.This lamp will show a dim red light at all times but when the switch closes in the oil tank the light will become much brighter telling the driver the engine is about to move off.

/media/tinymce_upload/203ee089eedf4ba1a651b48e80626a1e.jpg

Here is the switch fitted and the red wire connected to the PCB all this needs to be tested out.

/media/tinymce_upload/04062d6df907ce34d00c58c50e275305.jpg

The drawing here shows the idea and lay out of the warning lighting system.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The details fascinate me as well Ken.

E.g.   ...   I need a new set of wheels so I‘ll just make them. Everyone else would go out and buy some.

 

I like the boiler lagging - no asbestos there like in the prototypes.

 

Have you decided on the livery and a name yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Rob 

thats a good point what to paint and finish the engine in maybe you and others could put forward some ideas here.

i was just going for GWR green G W R on the water tanks but had not thought of a number other suggestion in this field can be considere.

So let's hereyour ideas

Ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rob

5170 looks like it was at Stratford in London not Shakespeare country I hope which would be a possible engine as most of my family came from Stratford east London

One of his first jobs when moving to the signalling department was to knock holes in a bridge wall somewhere in Stratford for clips for a signaling cable. He told me he spent a day and a half knocking holes for fixings in the very hard blue engineering bricks he said it took dozens of chisels to get all the holes in this was using a hammer no modern electric tools then plus up a ladder.

when the foreman came round to check he said "why didnt you go into the cement between the bricks that's a lot easier " dad said he didn't anything as he was new in the job having moved from a messenger from Liverpool station but years later when walking passed the bridge he would look up at the wall and all that hard work. No doubt if I knew the bridge the cable might still be there?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes Rob recognise that set up no doubt dad would have I think he had a set I remember with brown stringy looking plugs now it a tipped drill bit and a hammer drill.

thats like the railways I was watching an old film taken in 1947 of the major junction replacement at St Pancras it had man carrying rails, sleepers and cutting rails by hack saw They were tuff in them days.

i could try reproducing them if your interested.

ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I still have a club hammer and Rawlplug hand drill Ken. Handy for cracking flints in some of the walls round here, when a leccy drill can’t hack it. 

I have been hand sawing sleepers for a greenhouse base as my baby power saw doesn’t have the depth of cut.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've still got a rawplug tool, comes in handy occasionally but usually my sds drill gets the job done.  I used to have 2 rawlplug tools but the bit broke in one of them.  There might still be another one in my dad's old toolbox, but that's put away in a hard to reach area.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The paint has been ordered but before any paint can be applied I need to carry on finishing some of the detail to the chassis.

/media/tinymce_upload/3b6e30a3daed6c6db16a9979ab384bf5.jpg

The engine needs some good old Great Western cross heads I could use the ones in the kit but these need to be made up from about 3 parts and all soldered together what I normally do is look at what Hornby have made and buy some of there’s and make the necessary changes.

/media/tinymce_upload/433fada795b46db9a9196e0af95eb3d1.jpg

The side bars support bracket from the kit looks ok and as this assembly will need to be strong as it will encounter forces that a normal electric engine wouldn’t face when running under load.

/media/tinymce_upload/52197cfc1302ddc508401b6d367af82e.jpg

Looking at the parts that go to make up the Hornby cross heads the piston rod needs cutting off along with the vacuum drive parts these can be remade if possible later. Also the connecting rod which is riveted to the cross head wants to be removed and a hole drilled through and threaded 1.2 mm for a nut and bolt assembly to hold the stronger con rod of the live seam A3 type engines.

It was decided that the 2 square lugs on the side bars could have a slot filed in them and the corresponding support bracket from the kit could also have slots filed in place and the two could then lock together and with some solder make for a very strong assembly.

/media/tinymce_upload/83830dae41104940513d99b7339326cd.jpg

The picture here shows filing of the side bars as mentioned.

/media/tinymce_upload/f7fb39629179ea527fd028b1b7f37131.jpg

Next was to file the slots in the support bracket. This would had to maintain the correct distance between the bars for the cross head so after a little filing the 2 parts were fitted together just to see how things were going on. Here the support bracket is being filed to take the slide bars.

/media/tinymce_upload/c076f5a22b8274d3e9ec1a13a231c2b9.jpg

You can see in this picture the finished parts with the slots all that is needed is to fit them together and solder them in place.

The Hornby section at the other end holding the side bars together can then be cut and this part needs a support bracket made up so the completed unit can be screwed in place on the chassis.

/media/tinymce_upload/7b69ee5c9778a9f60302df1c6c6a9045.jpg

Now all soldered together they make a very strong item next will be to sort out how this will be fix to the engine it is best that like the Hornby engines it is not fixed to the body as this will make servicing harder but to fix it to the chassis in some way.

/media/tinymce_upload/3cca7ee14793732dca26453485a9bf10.jpg

A set of spare cylinders were used to test out the fit and how far the cross head travelled up and down the side bars all looked ok so now a bracket to hold them in place was made.

/media/tinymce_upload/00c93825224e2aefe6e86bc1e2960015.JPG

This picture is of the new bracket which is soldered to cross head bars and uses the 2 Hornby holes in the bottom of the cylinder assembly shown here with two Philips screws holding the bracket in place. This keeps every thing built onto the chassis.

/media/tinymce_upload/aa31d25ef4d36cf4e8e3feebe9e9b607.jpg

Now with this part complete the body can have some of  the detail fitted. Looking at this picture I see I need to add some wheel weights as well to complete the chassis before I carry on the build of the body.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

/media/tinymce_upload/f325afd2c1bcd2c1e73cfe01352ee1b5.jpg

The detail with this kit is unbelievable I have only used something like 25% of the parts how much more I use I’m not sure from this picture I’ve left off the brakes and the injectors which fit behind the main steps this is because they will hinder the removal of the body from the chassis also the cylinder drain cocks might be a bit low and catch on the permanent way but apart from that most of the body has the detail fitted.The chimney is a copper casting or pressing so the top section can be polished the safety valve bonnet is also a brass casting and can be polished along with the whistles which as many will know is the trade mark of the Great Western Railway its was sad to see in the 1960’s these parts no longer shining brightly.Also in this picture you can see the driver Robert looking out at the countryside rushing past what you are looking at is just the top half of his body as his lower half has been removed in fact he is legless as there is no room for them as the tender tank is tight up against the inside of the cab sides.I was glad to find these as they are a white metal casting and easy to solder into the cab side and unlike plastic should not melt.

/media/tinymce_upload/711c9a0878070bbe275bba93ac4845d3.jpg

Some of the fine detail was to solder in these right angle brackets then pass a short bit of brass wire through the small holes to make it look like a nut and bolt fixing to the boiler banding.

/media/tinymce_upload/69d9d96731b07b0237020cb8dd17ca3c.jpg

The ventilator in the roof will have a small cover so that the water tank filler screw cannot be visible when the engine is running. The coal space at the rear of the cab needs a cardboard cover to which the fibre glass can be spread on and the small lumps of coal can be pressed into. Unlike other engines I’ve built this does not need to be removed to fill the water tank.

/media/tinymce_upload/a4f9c2261c8f10e75b64c323fed49244.jpg

Some of the detail to the front and the smoke box the buffers are omitted and will be fitted once the painting is finished. I have the paint and the transfers are on the way looking at the dart handles in the centre of the smoke box door as a child I used to think they were the hands of a clock which told you the time of the next train.The wheels here need a good clean as you can see brass filings on the hubs and spokes.A good wash in thinners is all that they need as they are made from black plastic so no painting needed here just the cast frames.

/media/tinymce_upload/cee5d0741af677c5fac43ef4f5345dc7.jpg

The smoke box door opens to reveal the adjusting screw to the switch which will I hope turn on the engines rear red lamp fitted to the lamp housing recess in the tender.This make any adjustment easy as the body will not need to be remove.

/media/tinymce_upload/73496614db705cedac3132d388ee6bc2.jpg

The right hand side much the same as the left but with Douglas the fireman watching the world go by again Douglas like his driver has no legs but doesn’t stopping him enjoying the ride. To drive a goods train took more skill than a passenger train most loose coupled stock had no brakes controled by the engineso it was all down to the drivers skill with help from the fireman in keeping the couplings tight to stopping a sudden snatch that might break a coupling leaving the guard in his van and half the train on the track if this happens on an incline then its possible the brakes on the guards van will not hold a high tonnage load and wagons and guard go roaring off in the other direction. Passenger coaches unlike loose goods had fail safe vacuum brakes so that the braking was through out the train. 

/media/tinymce_upload/d9f6c5cfffadcc43c616e7ce701b8c04.jpg

I need to make one more test run just to check all is well before I start the painting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Rob

yes even I was thinking this is a step too far but after much work and head scratching it might be a runner thanks to you and the list of these engines built and numbered I have gone for 5190 which was at some point at Exeter I have taken some video of the engine and hope to post it here shortly 

ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very good railway program on ch5 last night if you did catch it not far from me in fact the stone bridge that he walked under on his walk from Ilfracombe is Lee bridge and i made a model of it on my layout and is the one in the video I just posted of the train going under it.

all the transfers turned up in the post so this weekend will be spraying the body.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well all the test runs were carried out and checks on the engines running with the new painted body and it looked ok just a small problem with the front wheels shorting on the front steps which was corrected by bending the steps out a little away from the wheels.

/media/tinymce_upload/5c1ef857aed3968bbaa92481510c963f.jpg

The driver and fireman all painted up and the engine number 5190 all the brass work and copper toped chimney was polished up and the buffers fitted in place.

/media/tinymce_upload/3a24772c833203fb9a722b84c36267e0.jpg

/media/tinymce_upload/75ad199beed95e29ce4dccf782c41260.jpg

The coal was added by crunching up a lump of coal and pressing the bits into some wet fibre glass this was not going to be removed for filling the tender tank as the filling screw was under the cab roof venerator which you can see in the pictures here. Also in the picture here is the red tail lamp which is an LED made to look like an oil lamp.It was going to be by fibre optic cable but was proving too difficult to install so wires and a surface mount LED construction was opted for.

/media/tinymce_upload/7655959ae27f842e788320dfc44b09a3.jpg

Well I will carry out some runs and post the finished video here in a day or two. I thought on a couple of times that this engine was not going to be possible but by sticking at it we got there in the end and I now have a nice little tank engine for a change to run goods and branch line services.

I hoped you were entertained by the project as we struggled through the different parts of the build.My ability to build further engines is coming to an end as my stock of parts and donor engines is now exhausted but I will keep looking for none runners and one day you might see a build start on another loco to add to my live steam collection till then here are some of the engines I have build over the years.

/media/tinymce_upload/e35c6b420545cd756fe106dcb4b119d3.jpg

/media/tinymce_upload/4bd483251e31d657f85b45f7668eeeb3.jpg

/media/tinymce_upload/06ac71fcc2fad50232e4611c2454e828.jpg

/media/tinymce_upload/dec7c8d08b11be28d61d6d91f2e261e6.jpg

/media/tinymce_upload/febdd1456b49861724d1c53192728f99.jpg

/media/tinymce_upload/d58ffa614e44c5ddc9b85050d0701a2d.jpg

/media/tinymce_upload/8ed3006f15a3809288b7424e07449070.jpg

/media/tinymce_upload/d96e41982af96679de3d8bf3f7945c73.jpg

/media/tinymce_upload/9e872791fcd34b372e02fb5f4030497b.jpg

So what ever your railway is based on have fun keep safe and a Merry Christmas Ken

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Despite all the little problems Ken, it has turned out to be lively loco and it looks to be very controllable seing it shunting about. You must be well pleased with it.

You may have to build that steam crane you were on about to recover the various rolling stock off rail incidents we keep seeing in the videos.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now

×
  • Create New...