Arc Air power supply to large mixed Classic/Sport circuits

[Dolphinspott]

I have built a large circuit, with 50/50 Classic and Sport track. I use a standard Sport switchable (one or two transformer) power supply with two transformers. Although it does work using just one, I find the power is smoother using two. But I’m thinking of adding Arc Air to bring it more up to date and have read about issues with the power, especially with older track.

1. Please can anyone comment on whether the Air is sufficiently powerful for a large mixed circuit with just the one transformer as I certainly found adding the second to the standard one helped. Is Arc more powerful than the older one, does anyone have power output figures?
2. Im not currently too interested in digital as I have so many older cars but I understand the Arc Pro can have two transformers, mainly for digitally racing 4-6 cars. In analogue mode, will having two transformers make a difference, can it still feed power separately to each lane?

Thank you for any advice you can offer.

[Andy P.]

Hi There and welcome!

To point one:

up to 10 meters/33 feet you should be fine. After that connections must be perfect.

See here:

https://uk.scalextric.com/community/advice/track-maintenance

on how to improve things. Also a product called Inox (available online) helps a LOT.

There is also the option of "jumper cables".

Classic track is known to be much less conductive than Sport track. What few pieces of Classic I still have I have covered in conductive copper tape.

Finally, you can use the higher powered ARC PRO powerbase with the ARC AIR powerbase and it should still be OK. Make sure it is not in direct sunlight. Try not to use it hours and hours on end and unplug it when not in use.

Also use the search function here. there may be other tips...

Point 2: Yes, ARC PRO has an analog mode and it has inputs for 2 power supplies. It behaves the same as ARC AIR when in analog mode but it goes about it in a different way. Basically, some cars will emit a small whine when the trigger is pulled. Not all do it and it is not audible to most once the cars are been driven in anger but it does affect some people.

Personally I would go with option 1 in your case. I love ARC AIR and had I not been given ARC PRO and a ton of digital stuff I likely would have stayed with it for a while.

Good luck!

[Dolphinspott]

Hi There and welcome!

To point one:

up to 10 meters/33 feet you should be fine. After that connections must be perfect.

See here:

https://uk.scalextric.com/community/advice/track-maintenance

on how to improve things. Also a product called Inox (available online) helps a LOT.

There is also the option of "jumper cables".

Classic track is known to be much less conductive than Sport track. What few pieces of Classic I still have I have covered in conductive copper tape.

Finally, you can use the higher powered ARC PRO powerbase with the ARC AIR powerbase and it should still be OK. Make sure it is not in direct sunlight. Try not to use it hours and hours on end and unplug it when not in use.

Also use the search function here. there may be other tips...

Point 2: Yes, ARC PRO has an analog mode and it has inputs for 2 power supplies. It behaves the same as ARC AIR when in analog mode but it goes about it in a different way. Basically, some cars will emit a small whine when the trigger is pulled. Not all do it and it is not audible to most once the cars are been driven in anger but it does affect some people.

Personally I would go with option 1 in your case. I love ARC AIR and had I not been given ARC PRO and a ton of digital stuff I likely would have stayed with it for a while.

Good luck!

Thanks for this. I'd love to go with Air but based on your advice, I may be best sticking with what I have as the circuit is a little over 23 metres in length! I do have power boost cables in a couple of places and my old track has had a good clean but I do notice a drop in performance in parts of the Classic sections, hence my concern about power supply. And I can't go with the copper tape because it's only semi-permanent and may have to be dismantled and stored from time to time.

Just to clarify, with Pro and two transformers, would I get the benefit of the extra power in analogue mode, or only in digital? And also, could you please explain what you mean by “Use the Arc Pro powerbase with the Arc Air powerbase?” Sorry about all the questions but I’m still learning all this stuff. It was a lot simpler back in the 70s and early 80s!

[Dolphinspott]

Thanks for this. I'd love to go with Air but based on your advice, I may be best sticking with what I have as the circuit is a little over 23 metres in length! I do have power boost cables in a couple of places and my old track has had a good clean but I do notice a drop in performance in parts of the Classic sections, hence my concern about power supply. And I can't go with the copper tape because it's only semi-permanent and may have to be dismantled and stored from time to time.

Just to clarify, with Pro and two transformers, would I get the benefit of the extra power in analogue mode, or only in digital? And also, could you please explain what you mean by “Use the Arc Pro powerbase with the Arc Air powerbase?” Sorry about all the questions but I’m still learning all this stuff. It was a lot simpler back in the 70s and early 80s!

[Andy P.]

That should have read: Use the Arc Pro POWER PACK with the Arc Air powerbase

It has higher amperage.

There are Toshiba laptop powerpacks that are more or less the same I think.

[Dolphinspott]

That should have read: Use the Arc Pro POWER PACK with the Arc Air powerbase

It has higher amperage.

There are Toshiba laptop powerpacks that are more or less the same I think.

Thanks for all the advice Andy. Yes, I think this is the route I’m going to take, someone else has pointed me in that direction too. I’ve also discovered that the C912/C990 power supplies with the Sport powerbase only deliver about 800mA each so even the basic Arc Air 1.5A power supply is similar to my two supplies! The Arc Pro power supply (or the Toshiba alternative) should be more than enough if necessary.

[Andy P.]

The only thing I seem to remember someone saying is that high revving (usually non-Hornby) motors might draw more power and can get a little hot...

But it was more of you "racing on a 36°C day in direct sunlight for hours " kind of a problem , not something that should happen from a few minutes of fun...

[Dolphinspott]

The only thing I seem to remember someone saying is that high revving (usually non-Hornby) motors might draw more power and can get a little hot...

But it was more of you "racing on a 36°C day in direct sunlight for hours " kind of a problem , not something that should happen from a few minutes of fun...

Thanks for the extra details, and all the earlier advice. Yeah, not planning to replicate the LeMans 24hr and I tend to keep a shade on my Velux in the loft! It seems even the standard power supply may be enough, and the Pro one is a good alternative if necessary. Just need to make sure I keep that Classic track in good nick, or gradually replace it if necessary, but I have 3 power boost cables already, and could split one to make two Sport to Classic boosts too, so all should be fine!

[Andy P.]

What I like about Classic is it is easy to put conductive copper tape on it and fold in in and around the ends of the rails to have a copper <-> copper connection.

The pegs in Sport make it tougher...

Good luck!

[Dolphinspott]

What I like about Classic is it is easy to put conductive copper tape on it and fold in in and around the ends of the rails to have a copper <-> copper connection.

The pegs in Sport make it tougher...

Good luck!

I might try the copper tape route for my Classic track. I’d assumed it was only for fixed circuits but it sounds as if you have wrapped it into the connections of individual pieces? Do you have a recommendation as to source/brand/type/size? I have seen 5mm but I’m guessing I need to find 3mm? And I think I need some with conductive adhesive? Thanks again for the help and advice, there’s so much to learn!

[Andy P.]

Yep I wrapped it on individual pieces that I wanted to keep. I basically bought 1-2 mm wider than the rails are and use a hard plastic toothpick like device to push it into the gap between the rail and the track.

I fold about 3-5 mm into the "female" end of the rail and wrap it around the "male" end as best I can and make sure it doesn't wrinkle when inserted (you leverage Classic into place as you know).

Curves are a pain in the backside... if you do end up using more than one section of tape make sure you think about direction of travel so the cars don't tear it up.

I got some generic stuff off my local bay of E....

[Dolphinspott]

Yep I wrapped it on individual pieces that I wanted to keep. I basically bought 1-2 mm wider than the rails are and use a hard plastic toothpick like device to push it into the gap between the rail and the track.

I fold about 3-5 mm into the "female" end of the rail and wrap it around the "male" end as best I can and make sure it doesn't wrinkle when inserted (you leverage Classic into place as you know).

Curves are a pain in the backside... if you do end up using more than one section of tape make sure you think about direction of travel so the cars don't tear it up.

I got some generic stuff off my local bay of E....

Thanks, I’ll have a go at this. It’s cheap as chips so well worth a go! Thanks again.