Coming Back Help Needed Please

[Hornchurch 1940]

Coming back to the hobby after 40 years, So some advice would be appreciated, I am reluctant to use a spray gun because of dust and difficulty in ventilation, is it possible to get a good finish with flat brushes ?? and if so are the airfix flat brushes good enough or any recommendations?, I was looking to use acrylic paints again because I believe they have less fumes ?? again are the airfix acrylics or other manufacturers better ?, I read but can't remember where that there is a chemical that aids acrylic paint to give a smoother finish when brush painting ?, is it practical to use an airbrush in a garden with just a cardboard box as a shield ?? and I think that my first model will be a tank in 1/76 scale if brush painting acrylics can i use weathering effects ?? oils etc etc on the acrylic or does it need to be sealed first, for brush painting will i get as good a finish with acrylics or enamel ?? probably should have asked that first. I appreciate all answers and help Thank You

[Sailorman]

If you are building 1/76 tanks I reckon you can easily paint them using brushes. When using acrylics you need to thin the paint and apply some 3 coats in order to get good coverage. If you go for one thick coat you will get a mess. I suppose you could use an airbrush in the garden but any dust or pollen in the air is likely to stick to your model. Airbrushes are best used in a dust free zone.

I would seal the paints before weathering as this avoids the risk of ruining the paintwork.

Suggest you try brushes first and acrylics and see how it goes. You're likely to get all sorts of replies as each modeller has his own pet methods for painting.

[Ratch]

Welcome to the site. Many of your questions have been answered in this sub-forum, where I have moved your post. Have a good look around and if you need help just ask.

[Hornchurch 1940]

Thanks for your advice Sailorman and Ratch

[John Symmons]

Hi Hornchurch 1940.

Welcome back to the hobby. I see most of your questions concern painting and not gluing. Airfix and Revell both do a semi liquid glue with needle applicators' that are recommended, and used by most modelers, together with one of the true liquid glues like Tamiya extra-thin, although I believe Airfix / Humbrol are looking to bring their own version out in the near future. well worth a try.

Brush or spray??? Personally, I wouldn't go the full hog on an air-brush as it's a reasonably costly exercise with a steep learning curve. See many of the online tutorials on this and other forums. Rattle cans are very good for spraying base or priming coats, these are best used outside as they can be quite odorous, and produce a lot of excess spray which you really don't want indoors. Just don't spray on a windy day for obvious reasons. Again, Humbrol and Tamiya are the two obvious choices.

With the new ranges of modern acrylic paints most can be brush painted or air-brushed some will need their own thinners, like Taniya as they have an alcohol base. Vallejo and Humbrol being water based. I only use Tamiya and Vallejo as Humbrol got a bad name in South Africa with their previous acrylic paint drying out in the pot, and all shops stopped selling them, and now nobody trusts the newer dropper bottles. Although strangely the old enamels are still available.

The additive you mention I believe you're thinking of 'retarder' and or ‘extender’. Both do a similar job of extending the drying time and making the paint go further without changing the colour or consistency of the paint as opposed to normal thinning. Both are useful in SMALL amounts on hot dry days, of which we get plenty in summer in Cape Town. Most paint ranges do some sort of retarder, and or extender at a price for a very small bottle. Better to go to a good artist supply shop where you’ll have the choice of all the well known artist brands. I use Dala retarder and Reeves gloss varnish. I’ve used the retarder with all my acrylic paints (old Humbrol; Vallejo, Tamiya, Revell.) with no ill effect except it can give matt paint a slight sheen which is easily fixed with a matt varnish, the best I’ve found being Vallejo matt varnish, just be very weary of the Humbrol matt varnish or coat (See various posts on this forum.). while at the art supply store you might look at the liquid masks they have, such as Windsor & Newton, Reeves etc again much cheaper than the usual modelling brands and you get a bigger bottle.

Years ago, the brushes from modelling shops either fell into one of two types, absolutely awful and cheap or horrendously expensive but top of the line (think Sable). Today most model and or paint brands do their own lines of brushes at various prices, some even have ergonomically sculpted handles. These are usually very good quality but are mostly synthetic (nylon). Nothing wrong with these and more than adequate for most modelling needs. I’ve only used the #2 Humbrol brush found in the starter packs, and was pleasantly surprised at how good it was. If the rest of the range is of the same standard they should be more than adequate. At art shops your range and prices and shapes will be vastly expanded, just stay away from the ones with very long handles.

A good starting point is getting #1, #2, #4, and a #6 or #8 in the usual round shapes; I can also recommend the squared-off flat type, try a 4mm, 8 or 10 mm and a 15 to 17 mm as a start. One of my go-to brushes is a broad flat 14mm but cut at an angle. You’ll be surprised at how useful this brush can be, I can even use the 8mm one for painting canopies. Of course, you can still go for Sable etc. just start adding zeros to the price. I brought a #00 a few years back it was 20X the price of a synthetic one and I’ve still not used it. If you look after your brushes they’ll last you for years. I’ve got brushes dating back to the 50’s, just don’t leave then standing on their bristles nothing ruins a brush quicker

If you look around many stores you’d be surprised at how many things can be re-purposed for modelling tools, like fishing tackle shops for strong side cutters at a fraction of the cost of ‘sprue’ cutters, they might be a bit chunky, but you won’t break them, and they can always be ground down with an angle-grinder.

As for your choice of modelling subjects; unless you’re really bent on the nostalgic trip I’d leave the 76^th armour alone. Those horrid soft vinyl tracks and all that flash, I’d go straight to the new 72^nd scale models. The only thing I’ve found that are still good in the 76^th scale are the soft skinned models like the Opel Blitz, a very nice enjoyable build even though the chassis boxes are wrong. I’ve just finished a couple of old 76^th armour kits, and to be honest I didn’t enjoy them one bit. Even though I’d made the Stug 3 when it originally came out and I thought it was the ‘bee-knees’ at the time. I was so pleased at the re-release I brought two, big mistake. There’s loads of really good 72^nd model armour made by the likes of Trumpeter, Dragon, Revell and Roden. The Roden model of the WW2 Opal Blitz command wagon is a peach of a kit, highly recommended.

I hope this helps and looking forward to seeing a few of your finished projects.

Remember we do this for fun.   John the Pom.