1/35 Ferret ~ Build Review

[Ratch]

Here I will post my warts and all build of Airfix's new tool Ferret.

[Ratch]

The runners were rinsed under soapy water and left to air-dry. I have decided to have some of my spare figures in or about this vehicle. I started assembly and tried out a driver. 

Before closing the compartment, I tried two figures for fit and selected the most suitable one. I then primed, ready to spray aluminium over the internal surfaces. Other colours will be brushed.

[Ratch]

I airbrushed the interior with AK Interactive Xtreme Metal Aluminium. The interior detail was brush painted. 

I then identified other parts to be aluminium interior surfaces. Some required pre-assembly and so I continued from step 79. Part E8 was badly warped, as though twisted when ejected from the mould. 

I put it in a bowl of boiling water and bent it back to shape using flat-headed tweezers. 

It was then cemented to part E5, held by reverse tweezers.

[Ratch]

I have started the turret assembly to a point where priming and spraying the interior aluminium is required. Those processes will follow.

[Alan-366669]

Just purchased this kit, finding it a most enjoyable project, this along with the new Land Rover as the first kit to do for a starer, and would recommend for a second of third kit build, this Ferret Mk 2.

A there are to me a few areas that will require some `fitting`, however if there was not a or any "challenge" with in a kit why build it, just stick (or don`t stick) to Lego.

Not finding the need to wash each and every part, however, resort to having a small perfume type `spray bottle` to hand containing IPA, which also assists if one is `nicked` by the scalpel`.

It will occur, and never met an enthusiastic `modeller` without modellers `thumb` and not numb with use on the Game pad either !

Never try to paint where it will never be seen, to me, just a waste of paint also if you work it out very expensive too, so employ artists oils thinned applied by either brush or air brush over a whatever coloured primer is easy to hand.

A cheap car touch up primer to me an ideal base coat, just `wafted on` in a mist, never ever given a model a full coating whatsoever.

Thus no issue with `bite` by the `thinner` (the carrying mediums fluid) coat soaking into or softening, thus distorting, or destroying and or obscuring any fine detail upon the plastic.

Oh❗One may note some some joints "out of line", this is done on purpose, well I only fix (glue) one end of the joint upon the model first, then allow to cure under the restriction of an elastic band or clamp.

Then work in stages along the joint to ensure correct alignment and bonding.

Adhesive always applied internally if possible.

A simple stainless wire brush over all areas afterwards to remove any adhesive shinny `spill` areas.

This brush also employed in removing fine mould parting lines.

Take care.

[Ratch]

I primed the internal surfaces black. I then airbrushed aluminium.

Assembly ensued.

Test fits of both driver figures revealed that neither could fit entirely within the compartment. 

Because both were leaning forward, this meant that their heads would protrude out of the forward hatch. 

Not a major problem (though probably unlikely in practice), but with the steering wheel fixed to the interior of the front panel, there was insufficient room for them.

I shall have to reconsider the vignette.

[Ratch]

A little more assembly and painting.

[jopres57]

It's probably a bit late now but I think you would have had some leeway with the driving figures. If I remember rightly the ferret driver's seat has a lot of forward/rearward adjustment and the backrest folds down almost horizontally.

[Ratch]

If I remember rightly the ferret driver's seat has a lot of forward/rearward adjustment and the backrest folds down almost horizontally.

 

 

Unfortunately, not on the model. They're both fixed to a specific position. Also, the figures I'm going to utilise were made a few years ago, and not designed for this kit. No biggie.

[Ratch]

I have used the merest smear of filler on the model.

[Ratch]

Removing part #D36 (I think it’s a light) from the runner, it pinged off into the ether. Despite a fingertip search, I cannot find it, so have replaced it with a disc of plastic card in the hope that it will turn up later. 

The kit offers capped and uncapped smoke grenades for the modeller to choose from. Likewise, there are two exhaust caps: A twin pipe and fishtail to be chosen from. 

Various antennas are provided, which can be mixed and matched to the modellers’ references. Radio systems were adapted to whatever fittings were on the vehicle, though the instructions show official larkspur and clansmen set ups.

[Ratch]

Assembly continues.

I have opted for the fishtail exhaust.

[Ratch]

Side lights were added and a bit more paint put on. Then I returned to working on the turret.

[Ratch]

I painted the inside of the hatches red, by hand. 

The turret is very tight with a coat of paint on (even airbrushed), but I managed to position it. I then completed the basic assembly, up to adding the hatches. 

I then airbrushed a slightly different shade of Bronze Green over the vehicle.

[Ratch]

I added the wheels, touched in some detail colours and then airbrushed Klear in readiness for the transfers.

I can't resist playing with some figures.

[paul71]

not something i would have looked at but it has been interesting to see, thanks ratch

[null_null981707818191]

I was at The Tank Museum today (for the Model Show) - an all-white Ferret is there on display - just like the UN vehicles I remember from when we lived in Cyprus. Were I to be tempted to build one, I think I'd go for the UN version... But yet again Ratch, an interesting and well structured build review - many thanks.

And on the subject of the Model Show, there was a large Airfix 'stall' - inevitably featuring the Sea King, but the only freebies were Airfix Club leaflets...

[Ratch]

The UN scheme is included in the decal options.

There are not many decals to apply for the 1961 scheme. I used DecalFix on them. The tail light lenses were painted red then everything was sealed under another coat of Klear. When dry I could fit the hatches and add the tools.

The lamp reflectors had been painted silver, and I added the clear lenses. The antenna mountings were painted, then I added aerials cut from thin brass rod and fixed with cyanoacrylate. To finish, I used Mig Weathering Powders on the tyres and undersides of the vehicle. The Ferret was then glued to a base with PVA. I added several spare figures to make a small vignette.

I have enjoyed this build. The instructions are easy to follow, and the kit is well designed. My only glitch was losing a part. I have heard that several other builders have suffered the same fate (not all with the same part), so be careful when removing pieces from the runners. Thanks to Airfix for the opportunity to build this sample. It seems like a popular subject and deserves to sell well.

[Ratch]

A vignette, West Germany, August 1961. 

[DoubleD]

Great job Ratch - yet another one to add to the listscream

[Ratch]

Thanks Dale

[Darren-372154]

Just looking at the instructions and the paint scheme's the radio fit is all wrong.

The vehicle hs 2x VRC 353's of the clansman range which are 80's/90's radiosets.

[jopres57]

Just looking at the instructions and the paint scheme's the radio fit is all wrong.

The vehicle hs 2x VRC 353's of the clansman range which are 80's/90's radiosets.

There are actually two options for Radios Darren; step 5 shows two Clansman's being fitted, and step 6 shows a single Larkspur set as an alternative. Larkspur was bulkier because it still used glass valve technology while Clansman used solid state circuitry. Clansman is correct for Option B of the kit, a vehicle from BATUS in the eighties.

I’m glad that the different antenna mountings are also given as an option in step 73. The two are similar, but different enough to be noticeable in this scale. Instructions say these can be mixed and matched but they would only be fitted with the correct radio. This would be Larkspur up to the late seventies, then Clansman which was rolled out from about 1978 till 1980.

Also, as a useful option are the two different types of side/taillights, one with side and taillights only and the other with side/tail and indicators (step 76). I understand that the indicators had to be fitted on many British Army vehicles during the mid-seventies to comply with new German road laws. This was obviously at a time when most of the front-line strength of the Army was in West Germany. I remember speaking to a REME electrician in 1976 who told me that he and his mates had recently been very busy completing the work. They were definitely glad when it was finished. Previous to this it was common practice for the commander of most AFV’s to give hand signals when driving on civilian roads.