Building the 1/48 Gannet

[Ratch]

Here I shall post my review of this new kit.

[Ratch]

This build will be XA418, with folded wings, bomb bay open and loaded, with crew in their positions. The frames were washed and rinsed then allowed to air dry. I decided it would be easier to apply the decals to the bomb bay before assembly. This meant that it would have to be painted first, so I cut the parts from the runner and cleaned them up then taped them together. 

I used Humbrol Acrylic 90 Matt Beige Green with a little Humbrol Acrylic Thinners AC7433, mixed straight into the airbrush cup. Likewise, I prepared the cockpit floor by airbrushing with Humbrol Acrylic Dropper Bottle DB0085 Black – Satin.

While these were drying, I prepared the nose weight. A tub is provided and 12g is advised. I cut 13g from Aquatic Plant Weight strip and then added some Liquid Gravity. PVA was poured over to fix the weights in the tub.

[Dominic Thomas]

I’m anticipating yet another informative build. Mine’s just been delivered into the storage bin, and is being kept for Christmas. Hence I’ll be reading with great interest.

[Neil-369052]

very interested in this build , my gannets in the pile waiting for my mojo to raise high enough for me to try it . plus i need to find a place for the thing to live afterwards.

(note to self ) be nice to wife , ........ for a long time

[Ratch]

Let's hope I can meet your expectations, guys.

I brushed Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish AC7431 on the bomb bay walls and cockpit base, then applied the decals with Humbrol DecalFix.

The instructions seem to be well thought out. Certain tasks are repetitive and with some planning can be tackled concurrently. For example, I assembled individual steps and identified individual components that require painting in Satin Black, the cockpit colour. I could then attend to each task in a single session, rather than going back and forth through the painting, gloss preparation, and decal operations for multiple sub-assemblies.

[Ratch]

I applied the decals to the various instrument panels, then brush painted the gun sight and detail to the rear position seat. 

Assembly could then resume. 

When it comes to joining the fuselage a further 55g of nose weight it called for. I just managed to cram this weight, in the form of three 10g tyre weights and a further 25g of aquatic plant weight. 

With what was inserted previously, this is a total of 68g I have added. I trust it will not be a tail sitter.

[Pretty Mediocre Modeller]

68 grams, those gear legs are going to be taking the strain a bit! Wonder if anyone does a cast metal replacement leg set?

[Ratch]

It feels like a diecast with that weight smile

[Ratch]

The instructions call for the crew to be added at step 155. 

While the pilot and second man (navigator) slip in easily, the third (weapons operator?) does not. 

I removed his feet to get him in. In hindsight he should be seated at before sub assembly 16 is cemented at step 19. 

Step 24 offers the option of deployed or retracted radome. The radome should not be deployed if the aircraft is to stand on its undercarriage. In flight, it may be in either position. 

Assembly of the wheel wells follow. At step 49 assembly of the unfolded wings commences, concluding at step 50. I omit these steps and resume from step 51, constructing the folded wing sections. Step 51 calls for 2 x 1mm holes to be opened on the underside of the inner starboard wing, but step 67 (the corresponding sequence for the port wing) does not. Looking at step 148, these are locating holes for (what I presume are) tanks, which are optional parts. The instructions do not make this clear and could be more explicit. 

The modeller must take to action appropriate for their chosen payload. 

I have deliberately delayed painting of the wheel wells, choosing to undertake this after assembly.

[Topcat_Ern]

I was at Gatow airfield last month and took a few pictures in readiness for my pre-order to arrive. If they help folks, here they are.

Andy

[Topcat_Ern]

A few more, the Gannet was nestled next to a 190 so not easy to photograph.

Andy

[Topcat_Ern]

Last one,

Andy

[Ratch]

With the wheel wells airbrushed I went to add the cylinders I painted blue last night, only to discover that the Carpet Monster had taken one. I had to crudely scratch and paint a replacement. I know its not in a prominent position, and that no-one who hasn’t read this will ever notice, but I’m annoyed with my carelessness in losing it. The doors are dry fitted.

Although the instructions indicate that the wings may be loaded with rockets while in the folded position, I’m rather sceptical about this practice, therefore I will not drill the location points in the middle wing sections (which are marked as optional). One location point is required in the port mid-section, for an aerial. Each wing section was assembled, 

then the rudder added, and the tail was constructed.

A crude test of the nose-weight

[Ratch]

Steps 83 to 89 deal with flaps for the extended wing pose. I leapt forward to step 90, which prepares the nose for the contrarotating propellers. Attaching the nose to the fuselage revealed that the fuselage had spread just enough to make a misfit. Could this be a result of the weight I crammed in, or did I misalign the fuselage?

I watched Paramjit on youtube, explaining how he derived the nose weight. He built this kit several times before he got it right, and I think therein lies an answer. The more often you repeat any task, the more your skills are honed. I’m sure there are highly skilled modellers who will get it right first time. There will be others who will just present their finished build and not admit to any errors, and another group will either blame Airfix or give up on their build. It is hard for many modellers with limited expendable income to justify buying one of the more expensive kits let alone multiples upon which to perfect the techniques, tricks, and/or skills. Starter Sets and low-priced kits is where most modellers develop their skill set.

Steps 95 to 101 address the undercarriage for the in-flight pose, and I can ignore them. I did airbrush aluminium on the appropriate areas of the sub-assemblies completed so far and primed the propellers and spinners with white. I also brush painted the undercarriage. 

The propeller tips were airbrushed. I then assembled the two Mk.30 passively homing acoustic torpedoes, five Sonobuoys, and six Mk.11 250lb depth-charges. I set the eight unguided rockets aside to spares. 

[SD45elect2000]

Hi Ratch. I find also that if I build a kit multiple times, I certainly get better. My latest experiences with some A-20 havocs is evident proof. I now understand there are better ways to assemble these kits and the next ones will be better.

Randall

[Ratch]

Thanks for stopping by Randall.

No text in this update because the censor doesn't like a word I've used.

[Ratch]

I brush painted the weapon loads. 

The rockets were made up and put aside into the spares box. 

Part #H7 is used as a jig to guide a drill to make location holes on the spine of the fuselage. 

I masked the canopy sections and airbrushed the interior colour.

[Ratch]

I re-fitted the gun sight and fixed the aerial mast to the canopy. I then fitted the windscreen and fixed canopy section to the fuselage. I masked the offices by stuffing sponge into them and blocking off with Tamiya tape. 

I then primed with grey. I considered pre-shading, but all the images I’ve seen on line show very clean, well-maintained aircraft, so I airbrushed without.

[Ratch]

I masked for the upper surfaces and then airbrushed VMA 71054 Dark Grey Blue, remembering to spray the canopies. 

Touch-ups were done with a brush.

[Ratch]

I then sprayed a coat of Klear as the gloss base for the transfers. I noticed that I had not painted some small parts and did this before proceeding to the decal stage. They were applied using Humbrol DecalFix. It would be really helpful if the under-wing markings were split into two parts for the folded wing option. I realised that they would overlap the middle and outer sections, and took a guess where the split should be, then cut each decal with a sharp scalpel before soaking and sliding it into position. There is an aerial under the port wing, and the A in the serial is cut out, which is useful as it sits over the protrusion of the aerial, allowing the decal to lie flat.

Looking at the undercarriage the pot of 90 Beige Green I used is much darker than the one used in the bomb bay, which is close to the VMA 71009 Duck Egg Green used on the under-surfaces. 

I have three Gift Set pots of 90 and selected the lightest to re-paint the undercarriage.

Stencils next.

[Ratch]

I am tackling this over several sessions. Trying to do too much can lead me to silly errors, so I'm doing this in bitesize chunks. I removed the masking from the canopy sections and applied the stencils.

Main markings and stencils on the wings.

I have started on the fuselage stencils too.

[Ratch]

Another two sessions laying down stencils.

[Robert-353760]

Nice build. One of my gas bottles was snatched by the carpet monster but I managed to snatch it back lol. The only problem I’ve had is that the bomb bay doors are held on by two small hinge things. I’ve snapped them twice.My fault.🫡

[Ratch]

The only problem I’ve had is that the bomb bay doors are held on by two small hinge things. I’ve snapped them twice.My fault.🫡

 

 

I'm leaving them off for as long as possible.

Thanks for stopping by.

[Ratch]

The final session of stencilling.