John208 Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 Hi. I ask this question with some trepidation! As a complete novice I've just started to ballast my track, starting, just in case, with a small length of siding. Having done so, it struck me that I could no longer use the Hornby re-railer on that section of ballasted track, so before I continue to ballast I thought I'd ask. At present I intend to leave some sidings un-ballasted, but I'd like to know what the experienced advice is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Fox 17 Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 A friend of mine, who is 3mm only, was talking about this for his exhibition layouts last October at Gaydon, so, I sent him a Hornby one and within an hour or so of receiving it the rerailer works on any ballasted track. From what I remember it did not take too much to modify. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John208 Posted March 18 Author Share Posted March 18 Hi. Thanks for the quick response. I've got a couple, so I'll try to modify one to see if I can adapt it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobby11 Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 Just make sure there aren't any specks of ballast above sleeper height, that won't help matters either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntpntpntp Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 I usually only use re-railers in my fiddleyard (unballasted track). I guess it you need to use it over ballasted track then it'll depend on how wide your ballast extends beyond the sleepers, you may need to remove some of the outside "lip" of the re-railer and also the locating lip at the very front? If you use the time honoured methods of ballasting including the trick of tapping the rails with the ballasting shovel (eg tea-spoon!) to literally "bounce" loose grains off the tops of the sleepers before gluing then you shouldn't have any problems with the main floor of the re-railer not sitting flat on the track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John208 Posted March 18 Author Share Posted March 18 Thanks to all for the helpful advice. I think I'll need to 'adapt' the re-railer and be more careful in my application of ballast. It's all an interesting learning experience! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D9020 Nimbus Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 Tillig do an "aufgleiser" specifically for their ballasted track range. It has "legs" some distance out from the track. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Too Tall Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 I adapted mine quite easily. as it was a while back, I cant recall exactly what I did .. but I do recall it only took a minute or two with a Dremel type tool 😄 Here is a pic of the item in question, look at the underside of a stock one and it should become clear what I removed 😊 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John208 Posted March 19 Author Share Posted March 19 Mine now looks just like that and works fine on ballasted track. Thanks to all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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