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Yeah I had a Nellie with a proper chassis and X.04 motor. Reliable, decent weight and easy to service. So much better than the cheap plastic chassis and can-motor things that my son had as a kid.

The length of track is kind of irrelevant. How many locos will be running at the same time, how many others + lit coaches will be sitting active on the layout? Sound locos add to the power draw. The motors in the locos are reasonably efficient from what I can tell, though I only have a couple in TT (hundreds in N). When servicing locos I expect to observe around 100 - 150mA when running light, some modern coreless motors being even less. I like to allow plenty of headroom and reckon on something like 500mA per running train in the smaller scales (N, TT, 00) which is probably double the actual draw in a lot of cases. I'm sure a 5 amp booster is usually sufficient for most people's home layouts. If you really will need more power then separate the layout into power districts each with its own booster. Try and keep other power drains such as lighting accessories on a completely separate AC or DC bus, there's no need to waste DCC track power on them.

A quick internet search suggests R3128 has NEM coupling pockets? So I guess you just need Hornby NEM couplings? Best if someone comes along and confirms this.

Something looks odd, as if the coupling pocket's mounted the wrong way round? Usually the leaf springs/guides would be at the rear and the front "pointy bit" of the KK mechanism would face forward and travel in the shaped slot. Is the coupling on the other end ok? Here's a link to spare parts complete with spring by the look of it. I'd be tempted to remove the "fiddled with" one and fit a new part. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305500083199

Those look llke old "shorty" coaches. Modern Continental stock will often be longer than those and therefore more overhang.

@Digger_61 ah good, so applying the thinner had some effect. Next time make sure you stir the varnish 2-3 times longer than you think you should 🙂 I usually thin down varnish when applying by brush, just by dipping the brush into a decanted pot of thinner as I work. Naturally it always needs thinning if airbrushed.

Not sure how many of the European MOROP standards cross over to British TT:120? Loading gauges and clearance probably don't. I've seen that same track bed diagram referenced in it's N gauge form as part of the NCI modular standards I follow

Things like coach overhang, platform height etc. are going to depend on factors such as the track system you use (and how you lay it), the curve radii, choice of stock you run etc. I'd argue "standards" for that sort of thing are of little use and just go with what works and looks right.

What type of fencing? Post and rail, security, panel? There are so many offerings out there in various sizes I'm sure you'll find something from an N gauge range that'll do the job for general fencing. Things like fence panels are specific sizes so unless someone's already producing them for TT you may need to make your own for that type of thing.

Confused me for a moment: R6010 is a wagon 🙂 HM6010 is the accessory decoder you're referring to I think I have a feeling the decoder is intended for solenoid motors rather than motor-driven slow-action types such as the MP1? Maybe try the decoder in "signal lighting" mode which applies continuous power to one output or the other? According to the manual the MP1 has automatic power shut-off at end of travel, and is safe to apply continuous power. I've seen elsewhere that this allows you to use a standard SPDT switch rather than a momentary type and therefore you can have indicator LEDs also on the same switch.

If you want to start with something close to the original, why not take a piece of platform with you to your local model shop / art shop / gaming shop / DIY store and see what they have which is a good match? I agree that platforms rarely remain uniform colours for long as materials weather and wear, undergo repairs etc.

@Darren-373700 Ah yes, I went back and looked at the MTB diagram above and yes you are correct they wire it as common positive to the motor. Same idea, just the opposite convention to the way I've always wired point motors with the switches on the positive side of the circuit. I guess their way better mimics the polarity of DCC Accessory decoder outputs which tend to be common positive. So... yes you can "daisy-chain" or "star-wire" the common power feeds to the motors, whichever is easiest under your baseboard. Keep in mind that if a connection in the chain fails you loose power to all points beyond the failure. I usually end up chaining runs of motors which are physically close together, but running separate chains from a central distribution block to various parts of the baseboard.

@Darren-373700 so you're assuming you'll only ever fire the daisy-chained motors all together in a single action on a single switch? Doesn't sound like the best way to wire them up to be honest. Run a common return certainly, but keep the positive side separate. A diode matrix is the commonly used method of using a single switch to fire multiple point motors for routing such as in a fiddleyard. The diodes then allow different route to fire different combinations of motors left or right as required, without affecting other motors. [edit] unless maybe I'm misunderstanding the question? The way I think of point motor wiring, the panel switches are wired together with a daisy-chained common positive connection, thus when you throw the switch this connects through to the appropriate left or right "throw" terminal. There is then a daisy-chained common return from the point motors back to the supply. Can you draw a schematic of what you mean?

I agree with @Ratch it probably needed much more stirring, and apply more thinly. The ambient temperature and humidity can really affect the drying too. To be honest not sure how to correct the problem. I suppose if it's not fully dried/cured yet you could try brushing whatever thinner is recommend for the varnish and see if that softens and removes any of it?

Hardly. The Railroad 66 is probably ex Lima tooling, still with a single power bogie. The TT:120 66 will be in a different league.