tinner Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 HiI'm new here so I hope I'm putting this query in the right Place. I have a class 40 with TTS, excellent value I have to say. However I have run into a problem, I can't control the volume. I know this has to be done 'on the main' and I can reset the cv 182 value and it confirms but makes no difference to the volume. I've also tried setting the value to 0 but this also makes no difference. Can anyone provide any input on this. My setup uses the Railmaster/E-Link combo. I don't suppose this is connected but I also have an issue with cold start, basically it doesn't work! It worked once when I first got the loco and has worked once since after a reset to default. The only other thing I've done is set the decoder to use a long address and then set the address.Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 It does not HAVE to be done on the main, just that people find it convenient as the volume change is done in real time and you can hear the difference as soon as you do it, althoughyou cannot read back any values in Operational Mode. It can also be done on a programming track by writing any value from 1 to 8 in CV182. Value 0 will mute all sounds. The default ( say after a rest) is value 4. If you write value 5 to CV8 it will only reset the sound section of the decoder not the motor side so you keep all your other settings and this should fix your F9 cold start problem. The other thing to remember when using RM and eLink is that the list of functions for that loco must be entered correctly along with where applicable the added on/off bit else these functions won't work properly and as F9 is one such function you should check it says Cold Start on/off in that list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 Unfortunately, the eLink does not support programming on the main. The Hornby Elite does, and it is also 100% compatible with RailMaster..I may be wrong, someone else can confirm, but programming the sounds 'on the main' is documented in the instructions because it allows one to audition the changes without relocating the loco onto the main track (as it is there already). I believe the sounds and volume can still be configured by the eLink when the loco is on the 'programming track', it's just that you then have to put the loco back onto the main track to test the changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 Rob (RAF) got in whilst I was still typing.....I wish the EDIT button would get fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinner Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 Many thanks chaps. Cold Start restored and volume controlled. Still seems a tad loud but there are ways to fix that, marvelous technology such as blu-tac. Seems you're right Chris, the E-Link can't work 'on the main' which makes it all the more imprtant that I get an isolating siding built to avoid having to constantly re-rail the 16 wheel beast! I find it odd that the E-Link, the latest Hornby DCC device isn't it, cannot perform a task detailed in the accompanying literature for a supposedly compatible loco. Next job is to add lights.Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 Be VERY CAREFUL how you design the switching, if you intend to make a siding double up as a 'programming' track. If at any time, a metal wheel (any wheel, even a wagon wheel) should bridge the insulating gap between the main track (when live) and the programming siding (live to the programming output) then you risk damaging the controller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 EDIT button still not working, so this EDIT is posted as an addition..Note: some double pole change-over switches are 'Make before Break' thus the act of throwing the switch WILL put the the 'programming siding' in contact with the 'main track'. You will need a 'Break before Make' change-over switch at the very least, or derive an alternative fool proof siding switching arrangement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 Or do as I do on my rolling road and use an ON-OFF-ON DPDT switch then you have a definitive dead position between programming and running positions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinner Posted November 5, 2017 Author Share Posted November 5, 2017 Thanks for the advice on the switchable siding issue, still haven't got around to it but winter's coming - time for the great indoors!As an observation on the cold start issue: I recently upgraded my laptop and rather than port my loco profiles over from the old one I just entered them anew. Cold start works perfectly every time now, possibly suggests that it's worthwhile deleting and recreating a profile in some circumstances? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted November 5, 2017 Share Posted November 5, 2017 ...still haven't got around to it... 7th Oct 2016 till 5th Nov 2017 - dragging your heels a bit Tinner??Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howbi Posted November 5, 2017 Share Posted November 5, 2017 He must have got a box of square tuits instead of round ones....... 😀.........HB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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