Masking tape

[peebeep]

Kip tape from Decorating Direct: http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/k/KIPMTYEL/

 

Cheaper than Tamiya, but the same quality Kabuki tape. If you can get together with some modelling friends and buy in multiples it's even cheaper.

 

Even the best tapes can suffer bleed, to avoid this problem paint the edge with the underlying base colour or clear varnish before applying the new colour.

 

Tape tearing and leaving residue is usually associated with it being left on the model for some time, or if it hardens up after being coated with paint.

 

Tape lifting paint is not an issue with the tape, it is an issue with paint adhesion. Did you degrease the model? Did you prime? These will reduce the possibility of lifting and I'm still very sceptical about applying aqueous acrylic onto bare plastic. There are ways to reduce the possibility of paint lifting. For instance, remove the masking tape by pulling back on itself and at 90° to the line of the tape; score along the masked edge with a sharp blade before attempting to lift the tape. Remove the tape before the top layer has fully hardened to preserve a sharp edge.

 

[Sailorman]

That's rather odd.  I've never had problems with Tamiya tape.  I use it for waterlines / cheatlines on my ships and the results are always good. 

One thing I do to ensure the edges are pressed tightly down, (and hence avoid bleeding), is to run the handle of a paintbrush gently but firmly along the edge that will be receiving the paint.  Not the outer edge - just the edge against which I will be painting.

Also, I lift the tape as soon as I have applied the paint.  This has two benefits:  (a) it doesn't let the paint on the tape dry as one thing with the paint on the model - which will result in the tape pulling up the paint immediately next to it and (b)  it allows the paint to "settle" on the model and you avoid a raised edge where the tape was placed.

I sometimes run the tape through my fingers if I feel it is too tacky. This removes a bit of the stickyness. 

Paul is 100% tight though, tape lifts the paint off the model when the underlying paint hasn't adhered properly.

[John Symmons]

Hi Snibble.

Ditto to all the above I'll only add be weary or old rolls of tape as it can dry-out at the edges and cause paint to creep under. Also don't leave rolls of tape in the sun or a masked model as sunlight causes the adhesive to harden. Before using any tape check the sides of the roll and if it's tacky or some of the adhesive has squeezed out and hardened bin the roll as that's asking for trouble, like-wise ir the roll of tape has domed trying to squeeze the center inner out again bin the tape.

I had the problem or glue residue remaining on a model recently, and found house-hold benzene removed it nicely without marring the plastic or removing the acrylic paint, not sure if it'll work with enamals, but could be worth a try. If your model is painted with acrylics and you want to try and re-paint it, the old paint can be removed with meths without damaging the model, but be warned it'll be messy.

Remember we do this for fun                  John the Pom

[Ratch]

Just demasked my 1/72 lightning, peeling off Tamiya tape. Checklist time.

Paint crept under tape? check.

Tape tears and leaves slivers in the paint? check.

Tape leaves adhesive behind on the model? check.

Tape lifts paint? check.

Another job ruined. Is there a good model friendly masking available?

[snibble]

Kip tape from Decorating Direct: http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/k/KIPMTYEL/

 

Cheaper than Tamiya, but the same quality Kabuki tape. If you can get together with some modelling friends and buy in multiples it's even cheaper.

 

Even the best tapes can suffer bleed, to avoid this problem paint the edge with the underlying base colour or clear varnish before applying the new colour.

 

Tape tearing and leaving residue is usually associated with it being left on the model for some time, or if it hardens up after being coated with paint.

 

Tape lifting paint is not an issue with the tape, it is an issue with paint adhesion. Did you degrease the model? Did you prime? These will reduce the possibility of lifting and I'm still very sceptical about applying aqueous acrylic onto bare plastic. There are ways to reduce the possibility of paint lifting. For instance, remove the masking tape by pulling back on itself and at 90° to the line of the tape; score along the masked edge with a sharp blade before attempting to lift the tape. Remove the tape before the top layer has fully hardened to preserve a sharp edge.

 

Wow, thanks for all the replies people. I quote the above as my answer I believe answers most points.

The model was primed with white halfords primer, all other paints are humbrol. A small natural metal area on the belly tank was coated with gloss black acrylic, shaded with extra dark sea grey acrylic then finished with polished aluminium enamel. This was then masked off with maskol. Then the underside had two coats of medium sea grey, shaded with dark sea grey then two coats of medium sea grey to blend the shading in. After drying for a day or two this was masked off and the topsides sprayed with 2 coats of dark sea grey, shaded with black then two more coats of dark sea grey then unmask and disaster.

Firstly, the idea of painting the "under" colour across the edge of the tape is I think going to be the answer to most of the poblem. The peeling was confined to acrylic peeling off the polished aluminium enamel so clearly there is an adhesion problem and in future I will lay enamel on acrylic and not the other way around. Tape tearing due to being on to long. Two coats dried overnight, shading dried overnight, two topcoats dried overnight. Thats 5 days even if I don't have any other life! Minimum! Unless I de mask and remask every coat and that's just rediculous!

Ordinary household benzene. Nevr heard of such a thing. I've heard of benzene of course but the ordinary household version? Does that come from a pharmacist, a garden centre or a drug dealer? 

Thanks again, I think the solutions are all there.

[Ratch]

In my experience, metallic paints are more fragile than normal Matt, Satin and Gloss plaints, regardless of whether they're enamel or acrylic. Therefore, I try to plan to make the metallics the last application. Masking then goes down on the 'normal' paint (when fully cured) that is less likely ro lift.

[Dad Paul B]

Something else you can try is to put a layer of varnish over the underlying colour; Humbrol Clear gloss works well. This helps by producing a smoother surface for the tape to adhere to and does not cause an adhesion problem for acrylics (which some gloss paints do). I have found that most bleeds can be fixed by touching up. I also only mask for the base colours and add shading after completion. Though your method is much more detailed.

[John Symmons]

Benzene comes in several types, the really dangerous type which I doubt you could get as it's mainly used industrialy then ther's the cylclo type thats much safer ( I'm thring to remember this from printing college chemistry about 50 odd years ago so my memoury is a bit hazey.) the trpe you can get at any hardware store or pain store is the safe house hold variety and shouldn't touch plastic, it's also great for removing those stick-on price labels that are always placed over instructions etc. It'll even let you remove the label from cellophane without and damage and from printed areas as it won't attack litho print.

Hope this helps but test first, and use in a well ventalated area, like a garden shed.

Remember we do this for fun                 John the Pom 

[snibble]

Gentlemen, I think your collective wisdom has renewed my confidence. I have touched up the very slight damge to the lower edge of the topside coulour where it had adhesion trouble over the enemel under the cable trunks. Next I will mask that off, apply a line of top coulour to seal the edge and then a puff of primer and respray. Similarly wings and tailplanes but without the primer.

Next up an old Flightpath firefly 4/5 multimedia in 1/48. Time for a project!

[Uncle Pete]

I'm a bit late to this thread but have you tried blasting the tape with a hair dryer as you remove it?  The heat softens the adhesive a bit.

[fishplanebeer]

Generally I've had no issues with tamiya masking tape but always apply it to a flat surface (spare wall tile) first to remove too much adhesion and then apply.I then use a cocktail stick to firmly seal the edges when applying to canopies to try and avoid seepage.

 

The tricky bit is if the project takes a few weeks to complete so that the tape is in-situ for a while whilst various paints and varnish coats are applied, especially over clear parts. Ideally removing the tape shortly after painting will give the best results but this isn't always possible so no easy answer I'm afraid.

 

Regards

Colin.

 

[the2ems]

Has anyone ever tried low tac Frog tape, cut into strips?

[snibble]

Well it finally got finished.

Pretty much OTB except for flags and tags and I butchered the stbd red top to represent a training acquisition round.

The nose ring is aluminium tape.