Kinetic728 Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 Hey folks.Bit of a newbie question. I have elink and rail master with accessory decoder. I have set the decoder to continuous output and connected the signal light directly to the decoder. Red (+) green middle and black (-). Should this work or do I need to buy an on-on switch aswell? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rog RJ Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 What make and model are your signals?Have you tried rewiring with the black to the central common connection? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 No you don't need an additional on/off switch as well..https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/r406-amp;-r8247-points-and-accessory-decoder/.This previous post written by Hornby Customer Care confirms how to use the R8247 Accessory Decoder with Hornby R406 signals and also confirms that the Green wire is the common..Thus you appear to have it wired correctly. Since you mention Green, Red & Black wires, it is assumed you are using the R406 signal. If you are, note the following..Early R406 signals used bulbs. The bulbs screw in to the signal head and work lose (causing the bulbs to go out). In order to check the tightness of the bulb, use a piece of soft plastic tube to act as a gripper to reach the bulb in its recess..I have no date when the R406 design changed over to LEDs (Light Emitting Diodes). But Hornby (unfortunately) continued to use the SAME R406 stock code number, so there is no obvious way of identifying, just by looking, what signals are bulbs and what are LED ones..In the absence of a test multi-meter. You could check whether the signal is faulty or not by using a PP3 9V battery. Connect the +ve of the battery to the Green wire. Connect the -ve of the battery to the Red & Black wires in turn and see if the signal lamps light up..Just in case the HCC post is wrong (unlikely) and the R406 Black wire is the common return. Perform the same battery test as above, but this time connect the battery +ve to the Black wire and the battery -ve to the Red & Green wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 If your unidentified signal uses LED's, they only work when wired the right way around.______________________incandescents (bulbs) they work either way around, but take a lot more power, and get very hot.More information is needed before we can take this any further! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kinetic728 Posted July 31, 2017 Author Share Posted July 31, 2017 Thank you all for your very helpful advice. I can confirm it is r406 signal. I have tested the signal to death yesterday and I have concluded that it must be faulty. No combination of wiring or works from the decoder. I also tested it with a 9V battery with no luck. I am confident it is LED configuration as i purchased it new off amazon a couple of days ago and i think visually looks like they are LEDs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted July 31, 2017 Share Posted July 31, 2017 I can't see anything on the web that says what the lights are - - but it DOES say it requires 16v AC to work!So trying it on a pp3 won't do anything! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rog RJ Posted July 31, 2017 Share Posted July 31, 2017 Unfortunately the website is wrong or just badly worded. They will work on dc at lower voltage but I don't know what the minimum is.I think these signals used to bulbs but are now LEDs. There is no fancy electronics inside them that needs an AC supply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted July 31, 2017 Share Posted July 31, 2017 Was there not an extensive previous discussion about these lights ref older version with bulbs or newer version with leds and how to use them. Edit: Search on title for R406 gives 6 hits and search by text gives 4 pages of hits. So this thread is likely reinventing the coloured light wheel.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timboleicester Posted June 19, 2019 Share Posted June 19, 2019 Hello allI bought 2 of the signal in question and shortly afterwards they stopped working completely. Stupidly I thought it was the bulbs and I searched ebay and hey presto I saw replacement screw in bulbs. SO I ordered them and a bulb remover. Ilater decided to look at the signals ready to inert the new bulbs.I found that they didnt have screw in bulbs but another kind that you cannot change. I went to the shop and explained and they told me they were not aware that the bulbs in the unit were NOT screw-in type. Horby have the same product code. I was told that I shouldnt be using 16v ...even though that's what the packet said. I am obvioulsy not going to buy this product again..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted June 19, 2019 Share Posted June 19, 2019 As they are a new buy and probably still in warranty and you did what the packet said regarding voltage then either ask the retailer for replacements or if they won’t cooperate ask HCC to resolve the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted June 19, 2019 Share Posted June 19, 2019 Timbo - please do NOT use the blue button with the white arrow, this is a repeat last post button, and we have been trying to get it removed for years!Scroll down to the empty white area below the header title, type in there, and send with the GREEN button that says REPLY.All newbies fall into that trap! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted June 19, 2019 Share Posted June 19, 2019 Just to add to the fun. The big black R406 colour light signal has had three versions, so far. Two types of bulb, and now LED, and all with the same R number... I believe that the original, smaller, Tri-ang colour light signal was RT 406 as well. RT as it was intended for OO/HO ® or TT (T) gauges! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted June 24, 2019 Share Posted June 24, 2019 Was there not an extensive previous discussion about these lights ref older version with bulbs or newer version with leds and how to use them..Yes here......also gives a testing methodology procedure in it..https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/hornby-accessory-decoder/?p=1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morairamike Posted June 26, 2019 Share Posted June 26, 2019 Point of interest that may be of some use to others.If you buy red and green or red, amber and green LED signals then the common wire is the positive to all three and they are looking for a negative to complete the circuit.If you by red and green bi colour LEDS or Tri colour 3mm LEDs then the common wire is the negative and they are looking for a positive to complete the circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted June 26, 2019 Share Posted June 26, 2019 I have common cathode 3 legged leds, which are the most common type available and also common anode 3 legged leds which are more suited for DCC use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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