Flying Scotsman R3508TTS overload

[edscotsman]

Hi

We've just set up a new Somerset Belle digital set, all fine. We also have the Flying Scotsman R3508TTS (with wind deflectors - the posh one) but as soon as we place that on the track we get OL and can't do anything. Swap back to the Belle, select its number and all is fine again.

I can't see anything under the Scotsman that could be shorting, any ideas please? This is Ed's dad asking on his behalf, it's his birthday today and of course all the shops/Hornby CS are closed.

Richard.

[pendeenpete]

Hi,

not sure if you can deduce anything with your setup,I am assuming you only have a dcc controller?

If you had a dc controller you would be able to check if the duff scotsman would run at all, if it's new I am afraid you might have to accept that sending it back as your only option.

This is tough on your Dad's birthday,been there myself two or three times except it was always Christmas.

If you are brave enough,you could detach the tender with the connector wires,(carefully),then see if the loco on its own causes the overload.

[Chrissaf]

Richard (Ed's dad), It does sound like a permanent short circuit. If you had access to a multi-meter for measuring ohms resistance then you could check by measuring across the wheels. I appreciate that it is a disappointment as it is Ed's (presumably a child) birthday. But if it is a 'short circuit on a new purchase, it really is best to let the seller / retailer deal with it. The TTS locos do seem to have more than their fair share of 'D.O.A dead on arrival' issues.

[edscotsman]

Thanks for the replies. The only controller we have is the Select that came with the set. I do have a multimeter but not sure what I'm looking for. On the 200 ohms setting the reading seems to stay at 1 when I touch the opposite wheel edges (working Belle and suspect Scotsman). If I do it from the pistons where they join the wheels the Scotsman reading wavers between about 30 and 50.

Or should I be doing 2 wheels on the same side?

[pendeenpete]

You check from one side to the other,make sure you check the tender wheels as well.

Your reading of 1 would suggest there is no short between the wheels as your meter is showing infinite resistance. Unfortunately that is not the only place a short can occur.

I assume that your decoder is in the tender,removing the top is straightforward,usually only one or two screws,it will be in the instructions how to do it. Once removed,you should see an 8 pin plug,pull upwards carefully to disconnect it.

Then put the loco and tender back on the track for a few seconds only,if there is no short,the loco may make a buzzing sound and your controller will not show overload.

If this is the case then it is possible the pins on the decoder are shorting,or the socket it goes into has bad soldering causing a short.

I must re emphasise DO NOT LEAVE THE LOCO ON THE TRACK FOR MORE THAN A FEW SECONDS.

Or send it back !!!

[96RAF]

There is the possibility that the loco and tender are cross wired so also check there is no cross continuity twixt left and right front to back. i.e. loco left wheels are isolated from tender right hand wheels and vice-versa.

 

Likewise the loco and tender wheels on each side should have continuity between them.

 

Placing the loco and tender on the track disconnected may prove this. i.e. there is a short when loco and tender are connected but not when they are electrically disconnected confirms a cross wiring fault..

 

Rob

[Fishmanoz]

You could in fact check loco and tender separately to see which is causing the short, then join the 2 together and see if it changes.  That will isolate the fault to one or the other or the connection between them.

 

If that doesn’t get you anywhere, then back to the shop under warranty.