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TTS Firebox Flicker


thirdline

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The TTS decoder is a basic decoder. It does not have a built in 'flicker' circuit. It does however have one AUX output (continuous when enabled) that could potentially be wired to an external LED flicker circuit.

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Thanks for the replies guys. I have since searched the net and found a 5mm Flickering Pre-wired LED, is this the sort of thing you mean? I think 5mm is a bit big for a firebox glow but I'm sure I could work round that. What colour wires from the TTS would I need to use and which one would need the resistor?

Thanks again,

Mick.

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Mick

Resistor can go in either leg of the led but you need the anode connected to the decoder blue and the cathode connected to the decoder green. Then for a steamer you switch it using F18 or for a diesel using F25.

 

These will have to be hard wired to the socket pins if the loco has one or by splicing into the decoder harness if not in the usual fashion.

 

A1K Ohm resistor should be adequate but you may have to alter this value to get the brightness and/or flicker rate you want, just be carefull to keep the current load down below 100mA.

 

Rob

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The LED's with the resistor fitted sound attractive, would the wire with the resistor fitted go to the green or the blue decoder wire?

i guess once fitted it would be a simple case of enabling the flicker via F18 then enabling the coal shovelling.

i can't wait

Thanks guys,

Mick.

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The LED's with the resistor fitted sound attractive, would the wire with the resistor fitted go to the green or the blue decoder wire?

I said before about which wire goes where.

Rob

Ah, sorry for not paying attention. Now I understand that the anode and cathode are on the LED not the resistor how do I go about finding out which is which?

Thanks,

Mick

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how do I go about finding out which is which?

.

Howbiman explained how to do this in the last post on the previous page.

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To reiterate what HB wrote again, connect the LED WITH ITS RESISTOR IN CIRCUIT to a 9 volt battery. The LED will only light up when the anode is connected to the battery positive. There is no hard and fast rule on this, but most LED sellers that sell pre-wired LEDs with pre-fitted resistors, usually put the resistor in the positive wire leg of the LED. But as I just said, this sellers construction practice cannot be guaranteed, so it is always best to check the polarity with a battery. Not only that, but it tests the LED as being functional before wasting time installing a faulty one. You MUST include the resistor in the battery test circuit and in the final installed circuit, else you will burn out the LED.

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3rdL

You can download datasheets for leds from the likes of RS Components or Maplins and these show the physical and electrical characteristics of the item. You need these when starting out as part of the learning curve.

 

If you want a good free book about model railway electronics you can download one from the home page of the MERG web site. Well worth a read and keeping as a reference.

 

Rob

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