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Dcc on old r156 loco


Arb264

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Hi, just getting back into 00 gauge and decided to go down the dcc route. I have purchased a hornby 8249 chip and a old shunter, it is a non dcc loco. After viewing how to fit a dcc chip I removed the shell to reveal the motor etc, however there is no info on how to fit the chip to this hornby 08993 loco.

Can anyone help?

Regards

Rog/media/tinymce_upload/26023ef2eb912c6649d38b04d3335898.jpg

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Plus - the pick-up on the left wheel should be behind, not on top, and the one for the right wheel isn't touching, so is doing nothing. All three wheels n the visible side appear to have traction tyres, as well, so they will not be picking up much power from the track anyway!

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Given you can get a motor for this chassis with a 4-pin socket, I guess that means an R9659 (aka R8249) decoder can be used hence it must run within those decoder limits. Note the 'see here' link that tells of chassis mods required to fit these motors (6 wheel pickups, socket, etc).

New Railway Modellers Shop (both out of stock).

/media/tinymce_upload/5f5d3434a19fcfced773734fea1d17f1.JPG

 

In addition here is a guide to DCC-ing Thomas, essentially the same chassis.

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/hornby-dcc/decoder-installation-guides/r351-thomas-the-tank-engine-0-6-0-decoder-installation

 

Rob

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The chances are, that you may burn out the R8249. Its limited power handling capacity is not designed for old style motors. You may need a much beefier decoder. Either the Hornby R8245 Sapphire or a non Hornby brand decoder.

.

As to 'How To' modify this particular loco. Someone else will need to answer. It looks as if it might be a 'chassis' return motor which will mean having to isolate the motor brushes from the chassis. If it is a 'chassis' return motor, then the wheel pickups that can be seen in the photo won't be replicated on the other side.

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I have successfully fitted DCC to this Hornby Railroad model.   I converted mine to a Thomas the Tank Engine because the R156 is completely the wrong scale for a Class 08.

 

Only the centre wheel has traction tyres but as Eric has said above, the wheel pickups shown, are well out of position.  I used the Hornby R8249 Decoder and it works well.  I just hard-wired mine and did not fit a socket.

 

The Black housing around the motor, that gives the impression of a split chassis, is in fact plastic.

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Hi 

Thanks for the info but as a first time to wiring a DCC could do with more help! as you can see on the model there only seems to be three wires, one from the track, one to the motor and one to the chassis, i think!

How do i fit 4 wires?

Thanks

Rog

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You should have the same pick-ups on the LHS of the Loco as you have on the RHS, in your picture. 

 

  Can you upload a picture taken at the other side of your Loco.  (I suggest you send your picture as a separate post, so that it being approved does not hold up any text you may post).

 

Unless it is completely different to the one I have, it should have 2 leads from the motor and 2 (one each side) from the track pick-ups.  If it does not have pick-ups on the other side, they are either missing or it is in fact a split chassis design as described by Chris above.  A split chassis can be extremely difficult to convert to DCC.

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Hi this is a pic of the other side of the loco. if you can could you please reply in layman's terms as things like split chassis etc dosnt mean anything at moment. on a enjoyable learning curve at mo.

Thanks 

Rog/media/tinymce_upload/baede3fa6cdc6031840fd8650f291a8d.jpg

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The chances are, that you may burn out the R8249. Its limited power handling capacity is not designed for old style motors. You may need a much beefier decoder. Either the Hornby R8245 Sapphire or a non Hornby brand decoder.

.

As to 'How To' modify this particular loco. Someone else will need to answer. It looks as if it might be a 'chassis' return motor which will mean having to isolate the motor brushes from the chassis. If it is a 'chassis' return motor, then the wheel pickups that can be seen in the photo won't be replicated on the other side.

The motor shown is not the old type it is an earlier version of the current type of motor used in the Railroad 0-6-0 chassis

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The Railroad Model you have, is different to the one I have modified.  It is not impossible to add DCC to this model but it is not a straight forward task.  This is because the Left side of the chassis on this DC model, is physically connected to the motor.  The more modern Loco’s tend to have a socket, into which the Decoder can be plugged.  These are known as DCC ready.  If the Loco does not have a socket (like yours), there are 2 options, either add socket or my preferred option is to cut the plug off the Decoder and solder the wires directly to the Loco.

 

Using the information from the diagram that Rog(RJ) has provided above, I believe the way to add DCC to your model is as follows:

You need to create 4 different wiring positions, 1 from each side of the track giving 2 in total and 2 from the motor. 

 

On your model the right hand track connection is currently wired straight to the motor.  The wire needs to be disconnected at the motor end and the small capacitor removed.  This wire will then be connected to the Red wire on your Decoder.

 

The Orange wire of the Decoder will then be connected to your motor at the point where the wire from the track has just been removed.

 

Because the other (lower) Motor connection presses directly onto the chassis (and is what Chris describes above as a Chassis return), you will need to fit some insulation tape between the chassis and the motor connection to separate them completely electrically.  The Grey wire of the Decoder needs to be attached (soldered) to the Lower Motor terminal that was previously pressed against the chassis.

 

The last connection you need is taken from the Chassis around the point where it previously pressed against the lower Motor terminal.  This is connected to the Black wire of your Decoder.

 

To summarise, Orange & Grey wires go to the Motor and Red & Black wires go to the Track.

 

All Decoders when new are programmed to ID 03, so, although it is not necessary if you have only one Loco, it is usual to reprogram the Decoder to another address.

 

As also pointed out above, the thin copper strip on your model should rub aginst the inside of the wheel not on the top as it appears in your photo and needs to be carefully bent back to the correct position.

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