Chrissaf Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 HiI would start with the motor in the tender first, put power across the brush holders is it working? Does the motor need cleaning? does the motor need new carbon brushes and springs? Does the motor axels etc need oiling?Then put power to the tender pin and non tyered wheels is the motor working? does the pin need cleaning? How shiney are the drawbar fingers do they make good contact with the tender pin? Then work forward from there,yes the bulb and holder can be removed you will need to get hold of service sheet 111 for details Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 It seems that you may have a short circuit somewhere on the loco. The contact that rubs on the front driving wheel is only for the lamp, and is a push-fit into the cylinder block, where it is in contact with the larger metal contact that touches the bottom of the bulb. It should pull out pretty easily, with care. It is possible that there is something bridging between the bulb contacts and the chassis, but only when the weight is on the wheels... The Duchess of Sutherland was the only model fitted with the working lights, though most of the first type of body and chassis can be fitted with the parts. It is strange though, that the headcode chosen is two lights, one in the centre, and one over the Left buffer (looking at the smokebox) is not "Express Passenger", Class A (Later Class 1) which is what most people would use the model to haul! In fact it is Class C (Later Class 3) Parcels, fish, fruit, horse, livestock, meat, milk, pigeon or perishable train composed entirely of vehicles conforming to coaching stock requiremnets.Express freight, livestock perishable or ballast train pipe fitted throughout with the automatic brake opertive on not less than half of the vehicles.Empty coaching stock train (not specially authorised to carry "A" headcode) or empty rail motor train. http://www.uksteam.info/gwr/hcodes.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 I have just purchased this locomotive R066 circa 1978. I have had terrible trouble with it running. Is it possible to remove the bulb and contacts somehow it is in very good condition for its age. I have cleaned the pick up on the wheel etc and if the loco is lifted very slightly the bulb lights up and she wants to go. I’m pretty sure I have seen a bit of sparking on the wheels. I put another engine on the same line and that would not run. But when I lifted off the Dutches the other engine was off running. I’m very new to this sight and would appreciate any advice and my layout is DC. It looks to me like Hornby ditched the bulb idea on all the later Coronation class. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 On my Duchess the bulb cooked the plastic causing it to crack. Best removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sidster Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 Checked out that service sheet 111 and carried out Tony 57 suggestions also removed the bulb contact came out nicely thanks Sarahagain. Built her back up and she is now running like a Dutches should do thank you very much everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 Good to hear of a success! 😆 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWL Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 Hi Newbir and first post so please bear with me.I've just recovered my Duchess from the loft to try and get her working. Unfortunately I can see I obviously botched this up badly as a little boy about 40 years ago! The chassis (top section) looks like it's been drilled to try and remove the long screw that connected the pony truck. I think the long screw (S.1193 - which I can't find anywhere ☹️) has sheared off in the chassis.Does anyone have any idea as to where I can find a replacement chassist? The part is S4350. Tried all the usual places Peters etc but no joy. Is there an alternate chassis part I could use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Going Spare Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 Sellers on eBay are offering Duchess chassis. There is no alternative chassis block. Try drilling out the remaining part of the screw? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81F Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 Ebay is a good suggestion. I have bought one of these in the past which was not in great condition but very cheap and another which I have canabalized to create a better loco. If the body work on yours is good I'd risk getting a wreck off ebay and combining the best bits from each loco. By the way I used a couple of the driving wheels to repair another hornby loco (I think it was a King that had shed it's tyre and the screws have gone to other locos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWL Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 Hi Going Spare & 81F. Thanks for your advice. Took your advice and bought a wreck (of sorts) on e-bay. In the middle of restoring now wiith a bit of mix and match. Fingers crossed ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Going Spare Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 Good luck! Hopefully your next post will be to report successful completion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWL Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 HiAll looking good but just struggling now with the tender. There is definitely a feed coming through via the rear pony and through the pin, but I'm not sure if there should be a wire fixed to the male spade on the l/h side of the tender motor. Should this l/h spade connect to something? If I put a live wire from my controller on this spade while keeping the other controller wire on the opposite rail, the tender runs. Hope this makes sense?Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Going Spare Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 If you download service sheet 104 from the website of Lendons of Cardiff, you will see that the tag on the lefthand brush arm tucks under a peg on the plastic faceplate so that it comes in to contact with a metal pin protruding from the metal motor casting. This completes the electrical circuit so the motor should run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 Some later Ringfield Motors used a "bridge wire" with two different spade connectors. X.1193. One fits onto the left hand brush retainer, the other fits onto a rib on the motor casting./media/tinymce_upload/415b31d572c627d9958f9af3cd4fd515.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/17e4312145375c925a2ba06be20e87ee.jpgOn the original "Duchess Of Sutherland" type motors, the "pin" connexion can be flaky, as the metal needs to be kept clean. Sometimes the pin even snaps off. Service Sheet 104, as referred to by GS above../media/tinymce_upload/25cbbd09fcdad77dd3f3ba2f0a45cd21.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/0246a1fd3983e37742ec3b5bb4689028.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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