Decom Posted May 9, 2019 Share Posted May 9, 2019 Hi I'd first off like to say thanks for all your replies in previous posts and all the information given. It's been really helpful to me. I apologise if I havent replied to them because i've been quite ill lately and had quite bad brain fog, most is well now though and i am recovering. To my question: I am buying a second hand locomotive in a few days. The price is very low (but not too good to be true low) and the seller seems to have kept it in very good condition, plus he seems to know his stuff. Also his reasons for selling it at good quality and low price make sense. We arranged for me to collect it and that I could see it run to make sure it works. So what I'm wondering is, is there anything I should keep an eye out for? obviously for the price it's at I'm willing to take a certain level of risk but obviously if I know what to look out for then I can minimise that risk. Everything also seems good with the seller as he has good reviews and has been answering my questions accurately and quikly, but again If there are any tell tale signs that the product is faulty that would be helpful to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted May 9, 2019 Share Posted May 9, 2019 Is it DCC or DC, If the latter find out what address it is on (especially long or short) or get the seller to reset the decoder to factory default. Normal running checks, is it smooth, works both ways, any extras like lighting work OK. Any bits missing, its too easy to see what you expect to see and when you get home find something is missing, handrail, lamp, buffer, coupling, etc. Not many folk get to visit a seller so take advantage of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rog RJ Posted May 9, 2019 Share Posted May 9, 2019 What model is it? Some models are known to have common problems and shoul be avoided like the plague. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37lover Posted May 9, 2019 Share Posted May 9, 2019 @ RAFIs it DCC or DC, If the latter find out what address it is on......decoders are used in DCC so did you mean to type "former" not "latter"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fazy Posted May 10, 2019 Share Posted May 10, 2019 If the code is unknown can't you just reset it on a test track with the controller? Or don't all controls give you this opportunity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted May 10, 2019 Share Posted May 10, 2019 @ RAFIs it DCC or DC, If the latter find out what address it is on......decoders are used in DCC so did you mean to type "former" not "latter"?Of course - I had it wrong way round - Freudian slip. Fazy - OP has said in a separate post that he has a ’standard Hornby DCC controller’. We await further details to see if it is reset capable or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted May 10, 2019 Share Posted May 10, 2019 Roj - RJ - mentioned something which can be pertinent, but a good reason to see it operational before purchase - a rare occasion. There 'was a thing' perhaps 10 years ago, whereby a poorer quality of the alloy generally used for chassis / chassis parts manufacture was used by Hornby and Bachmann - MAZAK - full details on the internet. What resulted is what is generally known as MAZAK rot, and some cracking, stretching, thus breaking of bodies and non-operational locomotives.Most affected have probably been cast aside, so 'hangers on' may be less effected to the extent of not requiring any repairs. Otherwise, take care, look carefully, remember it was somebody's pride and joy but it's still going to be your hard-earned to take it, and enjoy. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted May 11, 2019 Share Posted May 11, 2019 As well as all the above, also look out for bodged repairs which can be costly to put right. Does it have the instruction sheet, box and parts pack/s that came with it when new. Take an R.601 and R.600 straight and do the Tri-angman PP3 9v battery test to see if it runs, 9v DC will power most DC locos. If it's a DC loco and it doesn't run then walk away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Decom Posted May 30, 2019 Author Share Posted May 30, 2019 What model is it? Some models are known to have common problems and shoul be avoided like the plague.Apologies for the late reply, I ended up buying it and it all worked fine. However I am likely to buy similar products (britannia class locomotives) in the future as I absolutely love that particular kind so I would like to hear your advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Decom Posted June 1, 2019 Author Share Posted June 1, 2019 If the code is unknown can't you just reset it on a test track with the controller? Or don't all controls give you this opportunity. just to clarify I did not say that, I was asking weather or not that particular controler was DCC or DC, as I was thinking about buying a set with it in. My set up is DC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 Decom - you didn't get around to saying WHAT your controller was, so the people answering gave advice for both types, analogue dc and DCC. 😛 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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