Fixing tracks

[keithp1707821843]

Hi

A quick question - I am now fixing the track on my first layout. I know you do not nail the pins all the way - but how far do you go? My hammer - the smallest I have is still wider than the track, so I can only fix the pins to the track level - is that ok?

Keith

[96RAF]

No - as they are likely to catch on the botom of locos or rolling stock. They should be far enough in to grip the sleepr but not so far as to distort it.

Use a pin punch with your hammer or if the board is soft enough push them in with a pair of flat nosed pliers.

[walkingthedog]

If you are not using Hornby pins (they are too blunt) push them in with the end of some pliers. Gaugemaster pins are better. You need to get some small tools to build a model railway. 

[keithp1707821843]

OK thanks. Thery are Hornby pins, I have used the pliers to hammer them down more, so the heads are alomst touching the sleepers. I will use a wagon to check the track is claer as well.

[walkingthedog]

I push mine in so they are tight against the sleepers. Not sure why you would not do so. 

[keithp1707821843]

I push mine in so they are tight against the sleepers. Not sure why you would not do so. 

I thought the same, I can only assume it is so you remove them more easily. Do you have a specifc hammer? Where did you get it as mine is quite old.

[walkingthedog]

I do have a jewellers hammer but I don't use it for track pins, as I said before I push them in. 

 

Bit like this.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SILVERSMITH-HAMMER-JEWELRY-MAKING-REPOUSSE/dp/B01IL70AIU/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=Jewellers+hammer&qid=1575468388&sr=8-14

[The Doc]

I use a 3 inch nail upside down to do the final bit of hammering.  Once the track pin is down close to rail height, you hold the 3 inch nail vertically with its head against the head of the track pin, and gently hammer down on the sharp end of the nail, which transmits the force onto the track pin.  Simple, and only costs the price of one big nail, which is usually nothing as you probably have one lying around somewhere.

[keithp1707821843]

I use a 3 inch nail upside down to do the final bit of hammering.  Once the track pin is down close to rail height, you hold the 3 inch nail vertically with its head against the head of the track pin, and gently hammer down on the sharp end of the nail, which transmits the force onto the track pin.  Simple, and only costs the price of one big nail, which is usually nothing as you probably have one lying around somewhere.

That sounds good. I will try that next time, thanks again.

[dadad]

Hi there,

 

I have found that the lightest cross pein hammer that I can find is best for knocking in the track pins.  With the pein in line with the tracks you should be able to hit the heads and miss the tracks. such a hammer should be available in most D I Y stores and many craft shops, check the jewlry making section in craft shops for a range of usefull looking tools.

 

John

[walkingthedog]

I don't use any type of hammer on my layout. No need as far as I can see. Makes things jump about if you do. 

[LCDR]

I do use a small cross pein hammer, but also I have a small coach bolt which I keep in the pins tin which I use as a driver  punch. This is about 7mm in diameter so it is safe to clear both rails even in pointwork. After drilling a hole through a sleeper with a tiny drill in a pin chuck I insert the pin and tap it with the hammer to start it off. I then use the coach bolt as a punch to drive it in. I stop as soon as the underside of the head reaches the top of the sleeper. 

[keithp1707821843]

Ok thanks all. A few ideas here, I like the drilling idea - if Ic an get a small enough drill. I am using plywood as the base for this (first) layout, perhaps next time I will lay cork first. I assume the pins would go in cork a lot easier.

[Rog RJ]

Good quality plywood is considered by many people to be the ideal baseboard material.  No need for cork unless you just want to use it to help form a ballast shoulder.

[Chrissaf]

......perhaps next time I will lay cork first. I assume the pins would go in cork a lot easier.

.

Cork only tends to be a thin skim layer about 3 to 5mm thick. So a track pin still needs to go into the plywood under the cork.

[walkingthedog]

Hornby track pins are in my view not ideal. They are thick, blunt and have a domed head, not unlike me.