R648 schools class tripping controller

[L757]

Hi

trying to grow my collection I've bought a schools class loco off ebay, ringfield motor,looks like new but when I run it, it either does a circuit and stops or, more commonly, moves an inch and stops.  Any ideas where to start looking, the capacitor is very lose but I cant tighten it any more. Theres just one black wire in the tender running from one motor bush to the connecting pin

thanks in advance, I hope

[Going Spare]

If the loco was sold as a runner, return it to the seller.

GS

[LCDR]

I agree, return it to seller. 

[atom3624]

How big is your collection?

Is this the 2nd or 3rd locomotive, or you have quite a reasonable collection?

 

What is the controller / power supply - is it an R8250?

 

Do you have one of those rectangular section 9V batteries around?

Resting on something soft to cushion, invert the locomotive and try powering it with the battery - should work.

 

I take it the motor is in the tender?

If YES, is the locomotive free-moving - can you push it along the track without problem, wheels locking?

 

When the motor is powered, does it turn over as you'd expect, or does it appear jammed and just 'buzzes' - possibly when powered by the battery, if the controlled cuts out?

 

If it's tender drive, with a 'pin and fingers' connection between locomotive / tender, ensure the fingers go nowhere near the pin - might be a short just here.

 

A few ideas for you.

 

Al.

[L757]

thanks for the input, I have just got my old triang transformer and controller out and its running fine using them.  Its still tripping the new controller, the one that comes with sets these days.  Is it the case it just needs running for a while to losen it up

 

I had planned to put a dcc chip in it  people say only if its a good rum#nner, well it is on triang bits not on the hornby  thoughts

[walkingthedog]

The cheap modern controller that comes in the sets is not up to the job to power older locos. 

[Going Spare]

Running it as DCC-fitted should solve your problem because the DCC controller will be able to handle it. 

If you are staying with DC control, continue using your Tri-ang units if you are confident they are still electrically safe; if not there are many controllers on the market that have the ability to control both Hornby and Tri-ang locos.

GS

[L757]

Running it as DCC-fitted should solve your problem because the DCC controller will be able to handle it. 

If you are staying with DC control, continue using your Tri-ang units if you are confident they are still electrically safe; if not there are many controllers on the market that have the ability to control both Hornby and Tri-ang locos.

GS

 

thanks  I'll press on with it

 

[Ruffnut Thorston]

With reference to the "pin" and "fingers".

 

On the older tender drive Ringfield Motor Locomotives, the pin MUST be in good firm contact with the brass "fingers", as these are the contacts carrying electric current from one side of the locomotive (this is the side opposite to the wheels on the tender with the black traction tyres) to the motor via the pin and the wire in the tender, which should be connected to the brush retainer nearest the front, that is right hand, looking at the faceplate of the motor.

 

The wheels on the tender without traction tyres pick up from the opposite rail to the locomotive wheels.

 

The left hand brush retainer is connected electrically to the metal motor block, and thus to the axles and wheels.

 

This can be via a metal pin behind the brush retainer, touching the back of the retainer, a bridge wire from the brush retainer to the motor block, or even both methods on some motors.

 

Later Ringfield motors, with the brush retainers held in place by screws, have the screw on the left tapping into the motor block, to make that connexion.

 

For DCC it is necessary to isolate the brush holders from the motor block...

 

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