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Battle of Britain wheel problem


AndyThomas

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Hi again to all.    Bought this  HORNBY GREEN BATTLE OF BRITAIN CLASS 4-6-2 SR KENLEY TRAIN OO GAUGE off ebay which is a kit train with an x03 /4 motor. It was a non runner but the problem was mainly the centre wheel axle was siezed up in the bush bearing so its all hunky dorey now.  The centre wheels are dummies and do not make contact with the track.  I prised one side of the wheels off to find that the axle actually has a square end that locates in the wheel but the very end of the axle is threaded.  The thread obviously cant screw into the wheel because of the square bit. Is this just supposed to be a push fit and the thread actualy has no purpose. Any info would be appreciated.

Andy

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Romford wheels and axles have a square end and a thread.  They use ring nuts screwed onto the axles. A special ring nut driver could be obtained that fitted the ring nuts perfectly,  I don't know if the screwdrivers are still available, I have one somewhere!

 

Example

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4mm-Scale-15mm-Dia-ROMFORD-Loco-Driving-Wheels/254532063233?hash=item3b434b1001:g:-78AAOSw1txeYR7V

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I binned my original reply as I missed the kit built chassis and locked onto it being a Hornby chassis with the X03/04 motor.

The wheels will be quartered onto the square shank and held in place by a nut onto the threaded axle end. As Rog says these nuts were not like we normally see nuts but round with a slot for a special flat bladed screwdriver that was notched to clear the axle end, similar to the security screwdrivers you get nowadays for certain products.

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I used to get my Romford Wheels from Markits, including the appropriate wheel nut screwdriver. Their webside still exists so you could try them. (Google Romford) . Scalelink also list them including a screwdriver, and they are listed on Ebay.

 

 

 

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I might be missing  something but how can it be Hornby and Kit built? 

 

I said I mistakenly thought it was a Hornby chassis due to the mention of the X motor, but realised it was stated to be a kit built loco using an X motor.

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Thanks for replying and that is very interesting. But I still dont understand the way this goes together.  Are you saying that the whole idea is to put the wheel on the axle and then put the nut on the outside and tighten the nut.?  BECAUSE the wheels on this loco have like a fixed hub cap for want of a better description so you cant see nor access the slotted nut.  It may appear that I have "yanked" the axle off the nut anway and more than likely stripped the thread on the nut. The wheels have no access to the axle fromn the outside?? Still puzzled by this.   Andy

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Romford driving wheels are secured to their axle by a nut which sits in the centre of the wheel.  When tight, the outer face of the nut sits flush with the centre of the wheel.  The nut is screwed on to/unscrewed from the axle by a special forked screwdriver the ends of which locate in to grooves cut in to the outer face of the nut.  Unless extreme force is used, Romford wheels can not be removed from their axles just by pulling them apart as with Hornby wheels.

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Ah, I may have an insight into the problem,

 

The wheels of a Builleid Pacific are not spoked like most steam locomotive wheels but a type known as Boxpok which have cast centres. and in model form especially for kit built models had an etched brass overlay to represent this which was glued over a spoked wheel centre. If the underlying wheel was a spoked 6' 2" Romford then it would conceal the Romford nut under the brass thin cosmetic wheel centre. 

 

In my spares box I have a couple of sets of these overlays which I got to cover the wheels of a Triang Princess chassis when I put a Kitmaster Biggin Hill body on it, but haven't yet used them .

 

For the kit built chassis my suggestion would be to replace the wheels with Markits / Romford new ones of the proper type. (Markits BW2NS).

 

Purchasing kit built locos someone else has made is a risky business unless you know the builder and he can explain how he did it. I would not myself buy a kit built model especially because Hornby's latest Bulleid Pacifics and Q1 being such excellent models with the correct wheels.

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Thanks for the insight on this. I think the paint job has hidden a lot of what may have been visible on the centre of the wheels. I will see if I can get a new set of wheels as the train acyually runs really well now.  Its one the grandson can have when its finished. If he drops it its only £23.00 down the drain instead of £75.00 for a proper one.

All the best and thanks to all who replied. Andy

Ah, I may have an insight into the problem,

 

The wheels of a Builleid Pacific are not spoked like most steam locomotive wheels but a type known as Boxpok which have cast centres. and in model form especially for kit built models had an etched brass overlay to represent this which was glued over a spoked wheel centre. If the underlying wheel was a spoked 6' 2" Romford then it would conceal the Romford nut under the brass thin cosmetic wheel centre. 

 

In my spares box I have a couple of sets of these overlays which I got to cover the wheels of a Triang Princess chassis when I put a Kitmaster Biggin Hill body on it, but haven't yet used them .

 

For the kit built chassis my suggestion would be to replace the wheels with Markits / Romford new ones of the proper type. (Markits BW2NS).

 

Purchasing kit built locos someone else has made is a risky business unless you know the builder and he can explain how he did it. I would not myself buy a kit built model especially because Hornby's latest Bulleid Pacifics and Q1 being such excellent models with the correct wheels.

 

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