JJ73 Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 Cool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Injury20 Posted April 25, 2020 Author Share Posted April 25, 2020 Hey all,Latest pics on the progress of my layout, first up a different angle from a higher position.. I have made the holes on level 1 for the R8014 point motors, and my soldering kit and cable has come today along with my second loco, a flying scotsman with TTS sound (Saturday) so I can start prepping for the buswire and finish securing the track /media/tinymce_upload/ea6a2cdc72be65f498a6c49399713e24.jpg I have also started creating the layers for the mountain area for level 2 and 3 using left over insualtion board from the garage door, I've been doing this with a hotwire (me new favourite gadget) as you can see now the gradient will be coming up the outside of the mountain and then inside the mountain through a tunnel before re-appearing on the right handside by the curved point. Only roughly cut to shape for now and learning along the way, probably go with plaster to create the mountain finish/media/tinymce_upload/7be85ee561344394d65b73189eb97563.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/276d4e8bc3e7bbf9b85a5f69183b2622.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Injury20 Posted April 25, 2020 Author Share Posted April 25, 2020 Hey folks, So, I had my second loco delivered today, a flying scotsman with tts. Very pleased with it and goes around the layout really well. I had both my locos going around and when I had the sound running too the scottie or my other logo occasionally stopped, would I be correct in saying this is due to drawing to much power from the single power track I have connected. I haven't made the buswire yet, thats my next job. Or could it be another fault. Also I had a couple of derailements on the points this afternoon (i'm still track testing and havent secured that part of the track yet) the question is after the derailemnt the only way I could get the loco's & controller (e-link with railmaster) to respond again was to close the program, disconnect the e-link and power down before restarting. Is this a common fault or a fail safe to protect the locos/controller, and will this happen everytime there is some sort of derailement?? Thanks all, Oh and I have posted some more pics of my work in progress which should appear once approved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted April 25, 2020 Share Posted April 25, 2020 ...the only way I could get the loco's & controller (eLink with RailMaster) to respond again was to close the program, disconnect the eLink and power down before restarting..What you are observing is the eLink 'Short Circuit' protection response..Can you not see this little red button circled in blue. If you can, then clicking it with your mouse performs an eLink reset (having first removed the source of the 'short circuit'). Saving the need for the powering down and powering up. If you cannot see this little red button, then you need to modify your 'railmaster.ini' file. This previous post explains:.https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/short-circuit-recovery/?p=1./media/tinymce_upload/a36b67d1be1d4627bc0159a72c2fe9e5.png. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Injury20 Posted April 26, 2020 Author Share Posted April 26, 2020 Thanks Crissaf, I will take a look next time it happens, i hadn't noticed it before, at least I know its nothing major. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ73 Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 It's looking all exciting Injury!!! - I'm glad to see that you are using them Piers for the Gradient - I've got some of them - they are really good to use!!! & so will Jimbo Puff - He tells me that he is a Gradient Fan!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Injury20 Posted May 3, 2020 Author Share Posted May 3, 2020 An update from me. So I have ran my buswire around my layout, my elink is connected by short wire to a block connector which then splits into 3 buswires around the outside of the layout and one through the centre to power the upper levels, which terminate into terminal blocks at the opposite corner, which means I can add surpressors (sorry not sure what they are actually called) if required. So far i have connected 2 droppers, one at each end of the layout for testing and so far so good, it works fine. Now I need to practise my soldering technique and get the rest of the track connected to it. I have had all 3 of my loco's, 2 with TTS sound running at the same time to great effect. Yes I have added a 3rd loco, a Mallard TTS no more spending on locs for a bit now, but have got to decide on rolling stock. I have point motors to add, connect and set up which I have asked question on another post on here about connecting the decoders to the main bus for power. The picture below shows my layout and my attempt of showing how the buswire runs in star array. I know it would have been better to have the elink more central but I needed to have in the corner due to layout plans, power source and ease of connecting my program track. Hope you like it so far and any tips appreciated/media/tinymce_upload/ebd6d6d2bc42a0d4baff8b83b5e8bbba.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Injury20 Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 Evening folks, Another little update, When I was just setting up my layout I ordered all my track (not sure if forum rules allow me to say where from, so I wont) but it came delivered in this handy tube which I kept in the corner of the garage... /media/tinymce_upload/bc123e09a0e915441ca0f4fea67f1ee4.jpg Bit of up-cycling and a Peco tunnel portal and 5 minutes later I have this.. /media/tinymce_upload/7e33b645006d671dc15e66b271aa7373.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/1cbb652ad6cd7c3d329cfc01a4039528.jpg All set for when I start building the mountain scene around it, bit of painting etc on the inside will make it easier for my tunnel entrances each side of my mountain. However, for now it's back to wiring droppers to the bus wire, fixing the remainder of the track down and fitting point motors & decoders. Still a long way off scenery yet, but it's coming on in my head anyway at least. Had 3 loco's (2 on one track) going round and through my makeshift temporary tunnel nicely this evening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ73 Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 HiyaI like the way how you've used the carboard tube & cut it in half to make a tunnel 😀 Good idea!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Injury20 Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 Hey folks, Quick question as I progress with the droppers to my bus wire. Once all droppers are in place (i'm connecting to every piece of track by the way) will I still need the point power clips in place?? Also when it comes to adding droppers to the points where is the best places to solder, if at all ?? thanks all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 Once all droppers are in place (i'm connecting to every piece of track by the way) will I still need the point power clips in place??.Assuming you mean the Hornby R8232 DCC Point Clips ... then no ... as long as there is a BUS dropper at least somewhere on each track side of each point.....when it comes to adding droppers to the points where is the best places to solder, if at all ??.I would suggest these two indicated locations:./media/tinymce_upload/b0b66aab039fc13d6b7481e1b29aa577.jpg.Don't forget as you add droppers, you are advised to continually check for 'short circuits' on the track after connecting each 'dropper' pair. If you don't, and then you find out later that you have reversed a dropper pair causing a 'short circuit', then trying to find which one is reversed is a mammoth task.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Injury20 Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 Hey Chrissaf, Thanks, yes they are R8232's that's good to know as I have read on they can become troublesome. Regarding the point locations, would it be worth attaching droppers at the other end too (by the switch) as I will have point motors there too and might be a bit cramped. I am checking after every dropper is attached, thanks to advise read on here, so far so good.. I will post some pics of my soldering attempts on here, but they will take a few days to be approved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 Regarding the point locations, would it be worth attaching droppers at the other end too (by the switch).The suggested position I indicated covers the whole length of the physical rail. Thus it is exactly the same metal rail as located at the point motor end. So no ... there is no benefit in adding even more droppers there as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick73 Posted May 10, 2020 Share Posted May 10, 2020 Sorry but really need to ask a really silly question just reading thu this topic what's a dropper please dont laugh but this is all new to me sometimes i feel like I've taken on a new hobby that's way over my head Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted May 10, 2020 Share Posted May 10, 2020 Not a silly question at all.Please see here courtesy of Flashbang.https://images.app.goo.gl/x7yHTT5ooTPZ4ktQ7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Injury20 Posted May 10, 2020 Author Share Posted May 10, 2020 Sorry but really need to ask a really silly question just reading thu this topic what's a dropper please dont laugh but this is all new to me sometimes i feel like I've taken on a new hobby that's way over my head NickSame here Nick, I have never done anything like this before, I just got the bug of relighting my childhood hobby after watching the great model railway challenge on tv. Its been a massive learning curve and been great fun learning all the new skills on how to do it thanks to the replies and research from this forum and you tube videos. What I have learnt from here is basically a buswire is a power cable that runs under your track baseboard, a dropper connects the track to your buswire. Giving even voltage on your layout. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick73 Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 Thanks for the replies and the image makes sense now do i need to do a similar thing to my 3 oval layout the inner two ovals will be connected with points and the outer oval with be separate as it's on a slightly higher level and I'm running it all on elink railmaster i was just under the impression I'd had to just link the inner oval to the outer with a link wire any guidance on this would be appreciated Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 As your layout is DCC, then basically wherever you have a point placed in your layout, make sure that you have a track dropper to your DCC distribution BUS at least once on the track on each side of each point, including sidings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick73 Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 i was always under the impression that was the job of the point clips sorry really must do my homework on all this what do most people use for a dropper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 The DCC BUS system when implemented properly replaces the need for the Hornby DCC point clips which are in the longer term a fault liability [the Hornby clips are just Hornby's fudge solution to eliminate the need for soldering ... the word soldering does not exist in Hornby's vocabulary]. Thus the DCC BUS system is just what many feel is a better way of doing it.....what do most people use for a dropper.7/0.2mm PVC insulated wire limited to 300mm lengths [7 strands of wire each 0.2mm diameter]. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 i was always under the impression that was the job of the point clips sorry really must do my homework on all this.... Think about the electrical load being transmitted by what are effectively very fine springy steel staples. Hardly the best conductor in the world, certainly only of use to power the odd siding not an extensive layout beyond a point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Injury20 Posted May 11, 2020 Author Share Posted May 11, 2020 I have DCC point clips at the moment purely for testing my track. Once I was happy with my layout and secured it to my baseboard I started the wiring. After reading advice on here I will be removing as soon as I have finished the bus wiring (i've ran out of solder, hurry up mister amazon delivery driver) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick73 Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 am i able to use hornby r8242 power connecting clips and run the wires under the board or do you recommend soldering wires to the track Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 Personally, I prefer to always solder. I see anything that just relies on physical contact pressure for long term reliable electrical conductivity like a power clip for example to be a potential future fault liability. But I appreciate that not everybody is skilled at soldering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick73 Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 gotta say I'm quite surprised that i need to do this glad i asked now what droppers and bus was all about before i got too far with my layout and have problems further down the line thank you for the advice guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now