96RAF Posted April 10, 2020 Share Posted April 10, 2020 I have a full set to match all the various bolts on 00 gauge locos. Bodging with the wrong tools will only lead to tears at bedtime if not earlier. If you really must press on JJ then the parallel jaw action of number 6 is better than nothing providing you adjust the slip joint accordingly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ73 Posted April 10, 2020 Author Share Posted April 10, 2020 Thank you every body 😀 I knew that I could rely on you Lovely folk for help - so many options!!! With Ello's Small Hex shank offer - that's a bit of a long wait - not sure if I can wait that long - E. T. A. between 27th April & 29th May!!! £3.58 (from China/Hong Kong/Taiwan) Chris's Offer of an Hornby C. R. N. Spanner - which is expected Spring 2020 & that could be any time but then B. B. said it wouldn't fit ☹️ £3.99 Then Chris's 2nd Offer is a 2.5mm Nutspinner - so maybe that's my best option but it doesn't say a time - may be I'll have a look further £3.95 - It's from S. Wales so May be it won't take that Long & on their main page it does say " This crises has put a lot of strain on Parcel Force and the Royal Mail so please allow up to five days for delivery (although we expect deliveries to be much faster than that!)" - I'm going to go for this me thinks!!! Thanks again every 1 😀 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fazy Posted April 11, 2020 Share Posted April 11, 2020 I surgest you get a bottle of 'Zap thread lock blue pt42' and apliy a little to the tread. It's about £3. this will stop it from coming undone again but will allow you to undo it later if needed. as it's come undone once it might do it again. What ever you do, don't think that tightening just a little more will help. you'll snap the head and be back here asking how to remove the broken bolt. which is not a easy job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ73 Posted April 12, 2020 Author Share Posted April 12, 2020 Thank you - but never heard of it - is it some sort of glue /oil / lubricant???I take it this is what you mean :-/media/tinymce_upload/33267118da7da89ac0d5b5723a8a256d.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 If you can nip it tight without then do that.Threadlock is like 'superglue for metals' - I've used it a lot in R/C cars and trucks.Generally they come in different 'grades' - mild/temporary, strong, permanent - blue, then red, then green. With the permanent, you're drilling it out.With the strong, you need to hammer / use heat and you might move it.With the mild - NORMALLY blue - some gentle persuasion can generally remove it. THIS IS THE PROBLEM. With the railway screws, they're small and if you think you'll need to remove it in the future, you may snap the head off. Personally I wouldn't use threadlock on railway screws - they're still relatively low performance / impact models, unlike R/C cars and trucks. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fazy Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 It's nothing like super glue. Its not a glue. it's a like a liquid rubber which drys and stops vibration undoing nuts. it's made specialy for modlers. It's no good for glueing anyting together Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 All LOCTITE® ThreadlockersThey combine a mix of complex chemistry and engineering. Simply put, this product is an anaerobic adhesive applied by drops to the threads of fasteners. It then cures to a hard thermoset plastic that locks the threads together. They are used only for metal-to-metal applications. I stand by my original reply. If this is the 1st time a screw has fallen out I would simply give a little clean, then gently nip up - avoiding damage. We used different strengths of threadlock in R/C depending on access required - normally when bolting skid plates onto bulkheads which hold / protect differentials which have to be removed regularly and cleaned / oil changed.As this is probably a 'one-off' and is not normally / routinely removed and replaced every week or month, I would guess it was simply not tightened correctly upon manufacture. Your call - I would no use threadlock in model railways unless the thread's obviously worn and I don't have a replacement to hand. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fazy Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 i Didn't say LOCTITE, read my massag, I said ZAP Z-42 blue treadlock. two totally differant things. not to be mixed up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 Simple description mate. Read it.Basically if it's a worn screw, no replacement, I agree to use it.If not, I wouldn't - hence why I said 'your call' - to JJ. I've used all types of TL for years - one was holding the alloy shock towers on my FG Modellsport 1/6 MT - not chance to budge - green TL.I used a touch of blue on the side plate bolts - had to be removed perhaps weekly - after 2 months I'd replace with new. Thread gets worn obviously. Back to square one - it's probably the 1st time this screw has fallen out, so shouldn't require 'assistance' - hence every post I've made - 'shouldn't be necessary'. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 Usually the reason they come undone is becuse they were done up with long nose pliers, if you use the nut spanner do can do them up properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ73 Posted April 12, 2020 Author Share Posted April 12, 2020 OOooo I'm confused - Do I or Don't I & please don't say 'Your Call' cos that don't help!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fazy Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 Unfortunately it's down to you, don't use loctite that is for certain is. I use that only in proper engineering and even then very rearly never on any models as it just isn't needed. the nut shoudnt have come undone in the first place and the correct tools should have been used when built. So why it did needs considering. As for what i surjested that's fine for this purpose. It is not a glue and won't even stick your fingers together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 JJ, using pliers it's difficult to know how much force to use without snapping the head off.Using threadlock - mild (as mentioned), medium or hard I wouldn't recommend if the thread's in good condition - it is adhesive and binds - different types, different strengths. The one mentioned is mild, but I wouldn't use below M2 high tensile screws.You can if used to using it add 'a TINY' dab, if the screw and thread are worn ..... this is the poit I've made from the beginning - broken record time again .. My guess is it wasn't tightened at the factory - or possibly somebody's had it off and not replaced for whatever reason.I don't think you need it - it looks a near-new locomotive, not tinkered with in good condition. Then ... IT'S OVER TO YOU!! 😎 Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ73 Posted April 13, 2020 Author Share Posted April 13, 2020 Ok Thank you all - What's I've done already is order the 2.5 mm nut spinner from Expo Tools which should be with me in the next few days - I'll carefully refit the tiny screw with the nut spinner tool - & hopefully that should be that but IF (which I hope it DOES NOT) fall opff again - then I'll order the ZAP Thread Locker - does that sound like a plan??? Yep it is nearly new - Hardly use it - just like all of my Loco's - just some of them are old with age!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fazy Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 Sounds like a plan to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 😀 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ73 Posted April 13, 2020 Author Share Posted April 13, 2020 Good Thank you all once again 😀 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ73 Posted April 16, 2020 Author Share Posted April 16, 2020 @ Jacob, Chris, B.B. , Atom & any others who said about this :- I've just got my Hex driver today 😀 Any Hints or tips or any thing like that b4 I proceed please??? JJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jane1707819582 Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 Don't force the screws if it will not slacken, tighten it slightly then slacken .Ensure you don't cross thread it .Nice and steady . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Going Spare Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 Resist the temptation to overtighten: it is very easy to shear the head off the screw and you are then facing a much bigger problem. As you tighten the screw, make sure the shoulder (the unthreaded part immediately below the head) sits correctly inside the circular end of the coupling rod. As Jane says: Nice and steady. While you have the tool to hand, check the tightness of the other three screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ73 Posted April 16, 2020 Author Share Posted April 16, 2020 Ok thank you 😀 'Steady & don't force' sounds like the name of the game!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 As we used to say in the old days before torque wrenches - righty to tighty and lefty to loosey. Only tighten it till it snaps then back a bit. As advised by others easy does it - fingertip tight not gorilla fist tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ73 Posted April 17, 2020 Author Share Posted April 17, 2020 Yes Raf :- righty to tighty and lefty to loosey. I have heard of that once or twice b4!!! 😀 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ73 Posted April 17, 2020 Author Share Posted April 17, 2020 JOB DONE 😀 WOW - talk about being fiddley!!! - just took me over 5 mins just to try to get the screw in place!!!@ G. S. :-While you have the tool to hand, check the tightness of the other three screws.Thank you for that - Guess what I found??? Yes 1 of the other screws WASN'T all that tight!!!Any better looking???/media/tinymce_upload/e1e8642e890fd4b5217dbe782c5038fb.JPG Missing screw - what missng screw???...(side view!!!) /media/tinymce_upload/b266b76a846903f508b64f7ddf043d0d.JPG All I need to do is just give it a test & it then good to go 😀 A Big Thank you every 1 who helped me out!!! 😀 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ73 Posted April 17, 2020 Author Share Posted April 17, 2020 Just checked it / tested it - & it seems to be fine so far - check out my video when I've made it & up-loaded it!!! 😀 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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