My DCC Locos on DC track are running in opposite directions

[eurolizard]

I'll preface this by saying I know very little about how DCC works, but am familiar with the benefits of running a DCC track. My entire layout remains analogue DC for the time being, using a Hornby HM 2000. 

I have a stretch of analogue DC track, completely isolated from the rest of my layout, on which I want to run a Class 156 model (manufactured by RT). This is a multiple unit consisting of two cars. Both cars are motorised and fitted with sound. 

However, I'm having trouble getting both cars to move in the same direction! When the controller is set to 'forwards', both cars move in their own forward directions, i.e. they pull away from each other. Similarly, with the controller set to 'reverse', both cars move in their own reverse directions, i.e. push towards each other. 

Clearly this isn't what I'm wanting to happen, so I wonderded, is this a perculiarity of running a DCC fitted set on an analogue DC layout?

Do I perhaps need to open up one of the cars and change a connection? (I've never done this before)

My preference if possible would be to not remove the DCC decoder, as I actually quite like the slow start and engine rev sounds that it makes. But if I have to, then I'll have to. 

One thing to mention, in case it's relevant: I notice that the NEM pocket for the coupler has metal connections, presumably to carry communications / power from one car to the another. However, I'm not using any fancy couplings, just standard Hornby ones (the set was bought second hand with no couplings supplied). 

Any help to get both cars of this train moving in the same direction would be much appreciated!

[Chrissaf]

Decide which one of the two you want to reverse relative to the other. Open it up and reverse the two wires connected to the motor. These equate to the orange and grey wires on the decoder. Some on here might suggest changing the value of CV29, but firstly you need a capable DCC controller to do that and secondly I'm not sure if that would be an effective solution when you are operating the loco under DC control.

 

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[5Dublo2]

If you ave a Hornby Select (at least with firmware 1.6 / 2.0 )  you can change which direction is forwards for a given loco by

Holding 0 and either left or right arrow at same time

 

You might choose the wrong arrow on your first attempt, just repeat with the other Arrow if you get it wrong

I think you have to already be set to use the correct address of the loco before doing this and I also suspect it alters CV29 without you having to know how to directly do  it. (As I can't read CV values with a Select I can't exactly check this thought) 

Only do this to one of the pair of  locos (and I am gonna guess at maybe don't do it while the loco is in a consist.)

 

If the loco has operating lights that change depending on direction of travel - I am not sure if this is a better or worse idea than the Chrissaf's suggestion of opening the loco up and reversing the wires (as both ideas are valid for changing the direction fo travel). As for the DC running option that Chrissaf also mentions, you can always try it and see what happens.

 

 

[Chrissaf]

5Dublo2 [Colin].

I doubt the OP has got a DCC controller of any kind to perform your suggestions. In his opening paragraph he wrote this:

 

My entire layout remains analogue DC for the time being, using a Hornby HM 2000.

 

Plus later he wrote this:

 

Is this a peculiarity of running a DCC fitted set on an analogue DC layout?

 

Which is why my reply recommended reversing the actual motor wires.

 

Although he is operating DCC sound fitted locos for the basic engine sounds he can get. He is doing so on a DC powered layout. This is something that you can do with the more expensive sound decoders, but not Hornby TTS ones.

[Robby_50]

I hope that I will be permitted to give a rather long answer. I'm afraid the word Hornby will hardly appear.

I have a Realtrack class 156 in EMT livery that is fitted with 2 ESU 21-pin 6-function non-sound decoders.

The coupling between the 2 coaches is indeed a bar with 2 metal strip connectors.This links together all the pickups. However using it creates a semi-permanent connection that soon becomes damaged if unplugged a lot. So if you wish to remove the dmu from your layout regularly then I would keep the ordinary couplings in place; It shouldn't make any difference to the running as long as track and wheels are kept clean. The bar is Class 156 part 129-inner bar coupling and to find spares try Realtrack tel: 0113 256 3415 or email: customerservices@realtrackmodels.co.uk

The movement you report is correct, as for some unknown reason both chassis are wired identically, so do go in opposite directions when coupled back to back. Realtrack sold pairs of decoders ( either sound or non-sound ) already programmed to make the 2 coaches run correctly. The tiny motors are sandwiched between the underframe and the seating unit. Trying to swop the wires to the motor would be very difficult and would still leave the lights working incorrectly. The 21 pin 6 function decoders plug directly into the pins on the circuit board above the passenger cabin, so there are no leads that are easily accessible. Either the Realtrack supplied decoders have been messed with or they have been purchased separately and the required programming not understood.

I'm very sorry but I'm afraid the only answer I can think of ( apart from replacing the decoders with blanking plates thus losing sound ) is for you to find someone with a dcc controller to adjust the settings on the decoders. This will then also work when returned to dc. A fairly good dcc controller would be best, say Hornby Elite, Sprog, Z21 etc that can read and write to the decoder on a separate programming track. The lead coach ( I think Its the coach with the toilet - coloured in window on one side behind the front passenger door ) needs CV29 set to 6 and the rear coach CV29 set to 7 to reverse its direction, programmed separately. It would also let you decide which lights to have turned on - there are cab and passenger cabin lights, even orange door opening lights, as well as white/red end lights. Turning them on on a dcc controller should mean that they also come on when returned to dc. If you can't find anyone try a model shop, as its relatively straightforward programming.

[96RAF]

Very usefull insight into the model and its ‘factory’ set up R50.

It certainly looks as if phone a friend or model shop with a DCC controller is the answer.

[Sultan]

Of course you could always send it RealTrack models to get them to set it up for you?

[Robby_50]

Yes, a good suggestion. You usually get to talk to Charlie Petty on the phone. He's usually very helpful. As with Hornby, I should check by phone first before sending. Just remember 2 lots of postage plus any charge by Realtrack will add up to a fair amount.

I bought the Realtrack 156 because Hornby have never made one in EMT livery. It's a very detailed model but costs nearly 2.5 times the price of the Hornby one, so it should be a lot better. I've got 3 Hornby 156s and from 2ft away the only obvious difference is the underframe - if only Hornby would improve the underframe to their class 121 or 101 DMU appearance.

[eurolizard]

Hi all - thank you all for your replies and helpful suggestions. 

Charlie at RT was indeed very helpful and offered to set the direction on the decoder on one of the carriages if I mailed the unit to him. 

Having looked at the cost of postage there and back I've made the choice to bite the bullet and pick up a DCC controller second hand, and reverse the direction of one of the carriages on an isolated line. 

Who knows, this might encourage me to move the entire layout to DCC!

In terms of the root cause, as was suggested above it does indeed seem that the outlet I purchased them from programmed the direction with both carriages on the line at the same time. The instructions note the importance of programming them seperately. 

Thanks once again. : )