5Dublo2

Cheltenham Model Center seem to have it listed

Coaches, wagons and locos that are part of sets don't have their own R number, so the R number is the same as the set number. What this means is unless someone has split a set and is selling the carriages you may find it difficult to source the exact set items on their own (as the carriages have probably got unique running numbers that don't match any carriages sold separately). If you bought the set as a split, then the original owner probably didn't need the track and controller.

Maglights come with instructions that show they are supplied in 6 wheel fitting and need to be cut for 4 wheel fitting, the instruction shows cut abut half way between the LEDs

It happens on Heritage railway lines a lot, as most of them don't have turntables or triangles. However I do agree, back in the heyday of steam it was rare to see

As mentioned images that try to explain the coupling plug/cover removal on the A4s: 1: I could not get a good shot of the location where you can slide in a jewellers screwdriver without partially removing the plug. In this image the locations indicated by the green and blue arrows will be touching each other when you first get the loco. This is where you need to gently lever to release the NEM tail from the pocket and the image shows the plug levered out by 2-3mm (so shows the edge of the NEM tails in between the two arrows) 2: This image shows the plug/cover your are trying to remove, the red arrow indicates the surface you are trying to get a screwdriver blade behind when trying to release it from the NEM pocket 3: Slightly different angle of the plug/cover - again the blue arrow indicates where you want to get a screwdriver into (although note that it will actually be inserted underneath the piece of plastic that is immediately next to the point of the arrow) 4: This is what the front of the truck/bogie looks like when the plug/cover is removed. The red arrows indicate the front edges of the pocket that you are trying to get the screwdriver blade in front of (when trying to release the plug/cover. I did not need to lever from both sides, however it doesn't matter which side you choose

I have just managed to remove the coupling blanking plug fitted to the front of my A4 - not an easy thing to photograph but I'll try to submit some images later (which will then have to be approved before anyone can see them anyway) The removable plug on the front bogie is in effect the same as the coupling part that is supplied in the accessory bag (pictured by John earlier), except the narrow tensionlock segment/hoop and hook are missing so it becomes just a thin piece of plastic (with the side irons) and NEM tails on the back (which are inserted into a standard size NEM pocket which seems to be part of the metal truck/bogie.) The plug can be removed without detaching the truck/bogie from the loco but you will need some thin bladed jewellers screwdrivers to do it. I first tried to remove it by using the screwdriver from the underside and levering in the centre - but very quickly realised the plastic of the removable part is so thin at the front that it would probably break the plug, meaning you can't refit it I then found that it was possible to lever from the side and manage to get it out safely - you want to insert the screwdriver blade between the front edge of the NEM pocket and the back edge of the removable plug and you can then pop it out relatively easily. Note: although not required I'd recommend detaching the tender so that you don't have to support both loco and tender while working on the coupling mount

They are X8011 Pin Terminals Note: you can't get them as a pair linked by a plastic block (as they come with controllers etc)

I have the same problem with a Hornby Grange I gave up trying to prise the handrails out as the amount of force needed was likely to damage things if they either suddenly released or snapped off. I did manage to lift the rear of the tender body enough to fit a non-sound decoder - if I could have got the tender fully apart I wold probably have gone with a sound decoder

My Tesco didn't seem to advertise the discount on the shelf - but I bought the Feb Hornby Magazine with the Hornby Catalog, used my clubcard and did get a discount (which other than they did mention the bundle saving on the shelf last year is the same as how it worked last year)

@pendeenpete - glad my info helped

Have you bought the specific Hunt Couplings for those wagons or the generic Hunt NEM couplings? The specific couplings are supplied with different designs depending on if the coupling is intended for middle or end of rake use. Also there are pictures, on the West Hill Wagonworks website, of the underside of those wagons with a bogie removed and a Hunt coupling fitted, which might help you

I had a similar issue some time ago, loco worked in one direction and would slightly move in the opposite direction and then stop. When I took the body off I found out that the position of a wire was fouling the worm gear - in one direction the worm pushed the wire out the way, in the other direction it pulled the wire up the worm to jam against the drive gear causing the loco to stop. Reversing the direction again then freed the wire and the loco moved. If something similar is happening to you then the loco will move slightly before it stops

Possibly an explanation: Using DC the max speed of the loco just depends on the applied voltage (ignoring PWM for simplicity) and is therefore limited by whatever maximum voltage the controller can deliver or whatever voltage causes the motor wiring to get too hot (and eventually burn out) - which ever of these two comes first ;) Using DCC the decoder itself limits the maximum speed based on a CV value Each decoder manufacturer sets the max speed (voltage) to a default value (and the default may not be 100% of the possible voltage for a given decoder model) Similarly (and I haven't checked this point) but for the HM7000 decoders, Hornby may set a different, less than 100% default for each loco profile that you could apply to the decoder - this being done to make different classes of loco have realistic maximum speeds Based on the above there is a good chance that unless you check and tweak the CV settings then a DCC fitted loco will have a slower max speed than the same loco running with a blanking plug fitted on DC

It is now fixed and I have been able to order

It is fixed now