Gez1970 Posted November 1, 2020 Share Posted November 1, 2020 Hi Im relatively new to building up my collection. I have a dutchess of Hereford loco powered with a tender. The brass finger coupling looks squashed underneath, and I cant get power to the tender.I am assuming the tender picks up power from the loco coupling? Does the finger power feed need to touch each other or be separated. There is no traction tyres on the tender. Can the coupling be purchased? Thsnk you Gerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted November 1, 2020 Share Posted November 1, 2020 I think Peters Spares still had them. If not you could replace it with a two pin plug and socket. You can get some really small ones. I did that with all my tender driven locos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted November 1, 2020 Share Posted November 1, 2020 Is it like this. You only have traction tyres on the tender if it is tender driven not when it is a loco drive model./media/tinymce_upload/535ef32bc77920da6a5ffe95341e81cc.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Going Spare Posted November 1, 2020 Share Posted November 1, 2020 I believe City (not Duchess) of Hereford has only been issued as R2015, an early China-made tender drive model covered by Service Sheet 223. It has a dual-feed drawbar and traction tyres. The jaws below the drawbar should clamp around the pin on the front of the tender chassis and the fingers on top of the drawbar should make contact with the metal plate that surrounds the tender pin on each side of that pin. The fingers must not touch the pin or a short circuit will occur. The traction tyres (2, for each of the grooved tender wheels) are in pack X8030. As the tender also has pick-ups, it will probably move under its own power while there are no traction tyres. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gez1970 Posted November 2, 2020 Author Share Posted November 2, 2020 Are they better to change? I think Peters Spares still had them. If not you could replace it with a two pin plug and socket. You can get some really small ones. I did that with all my tender driven locos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDS Posted November 2, 2020 Share Posted November 2, 2020 @Gez1970Please do not use the blue square with the white arrow to reply to posts. Move down to the bottom of the page and type your post in the white box and then press the Green Reply icon. I have removed your post from 10:30 today because all it did was copy out a previous post (caused by using the blue square) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted November 2, 2020 Share Posted November 2, 2020 I must admit I have a few locos with those finger connections and I am seriously thinking of replacing them with JST two pin plugs and sockets. I bought a second hand Princess Elizabeth and after a couple of circuits of my layout it started to short out. What had happened the figures on the loco tender/loco connection had moved and touched the pin. A small connector will be much more reliable. That is what Hornby eventually did, firstly they used two pin and then when they put the DCC socket in the tender, 4 pin. If you are willing to wait you can get them really cheap from China and the quality is good. The two pin ones are not too bad as the wires are quite flexable, if you use 4 pin, I have found it is better to pay more for the Hornby ones as they use thinner wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Going Spare Posted November 2, 2020 Share Posted November 2, 2020 For this loco, there is, under DC or DCC control, a need for only a 2-pin connector simply to transfer electricity from the loco pick-ups to the tender motor, any decoder probably being fitted in the tender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted November 2, 2020 Share Posted November 2, 2020 Yes, I agree with Going Spare I was only saying that if you ever decide to use a 4 way for another loco, like I did when I moved the DCC socket from loco to tender, or add a DCC socket (in an old Merchant Navy, where the weight took up all the available spare room) then it is better to use the Hornby 4 way lead as it is thinner. The Hornby 2 way leads that they fitted to early Britannias, if you can get them, are stupidly expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted November 2, 2020 Share Posted November 2, 2020 A simple way is to strip the electrics off the drawbar and use it as a simple link between loco and tender. Power can then be transferred using a plug and socket as previously advised. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gez1970 Posted November 3, 2020 Author Share Posted November 3, 2020 This is what i have. As iam new to the hornby set up, iam a novice on some of the suggestions etc./media/tinymce_upload/b9e13d7310ae70df19bfa79bb992decd.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/83cccdad9ddc1d930c93e16b43532a6e.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gez1970 Posted November 4, 2020 Author Share Posted November 4, 2020 This is the connector, is there a shop i can buy this or replace with something better. Happily pay anyone who could get the loco and tender to run/media/tinymce_upload/54ea593f41028dad3b1188911d464f2f.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 Those brass strips at an angle need to be adjusted to grip the vertical post without touching anything else. Get hold of the service sheet for that loco to find out the part number of the powered drawbar and look on Peters Spares or New Modellers Shop for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Going Spare Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 The part you need is X1499 or X1499M. Specialist suppliers such as Peters Spares should be able to help you. However, it would not be a difficult task to reshape the jaws on the existing drawbar as RAF96 suggests, to save you that expense. The service sheet is 111A downloadable from website lendonsmodelshop.co.uk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Doc Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 This looks like the made in UK version to me and if you aren't able to bend the two brass wipers (they should be vertical and a bit closer together) then, as Going Spare says, get X1499 (some available on ebay). You will also need two traction tyres, and I could be wrong, but the traction tyres recommended in an earlier post are for the later "made in China" version, and might not be exactly the same size (I found this problem with UK and China tender drive versions of A1/A3 models). Maybe someone else knows the number for the Margate made tender drive traction tyres. I wouldn't be surprised if it's the same for most if not all Margate made ringfield motors?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 I didn't realise it was an early ringfield based loco. I am pretty sure last time I looked Peters spares had the drawbar. Is it an 4-4-0 by chance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Going Spare Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 The Duchess is a 4-6-2 loco, the tender traction tyres X8030 were not changed between UK and Chinese models unlike the A1/A3/A4 which in Margate days also used X8030 tyres (the spoked tender wheels were the same on the A1/A3 and Duchess/Coronation) but moved to X8459 on China-made models. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Going Spare Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 Correction - shouldn't rely on memory! The China-made traction tyre pack is X8439, Apologies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gez1970 Posted November 9, 2020 Author Share Posted November 9, 2020 I replaced the coupling with a new one, put new brushes and springs into the tender, still no power to either.. Doea anyone know who can repair this for me. ThanksGerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ73 Posted November 9, 2020 Share Posted November 9, 2020 Do you have a Local Model Shop - some times they will do repairs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Going Spare Posted November 9, 2020 Share Posted November 9, 2020 If this is R2015 City of Hereford, and in origional condition, Service Sheet 223 shows it should have a dual-polarity drawbar fed by wires from pick-ups on the loco driving wheels. However, the photographs tend to show that a single-polarity drawbar is fitted, but this is dependent upon electricity passing through the chassis block. If the loco's pick-up wires are not linked to the drawbar, there is no electricity passing from the loco to the tender motor. Take the loco body off and compare the chassis with the illustration on the service sheet, downloadable from lendonsmodelshop.co.uk as it is not available on this site. Also try applying power to the tender wheels (avoiding the traction tyres) to see whether the motor runs - again, if original, the tender should have its own pick-ups. If all else fails, see whether you have a model shop near you - or even a model railway club: members will be happy to help, I am sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gez1970 Posted November 9, 2020 Author Share Posted November 9, 2020 Hes closed at the moment. I got the spares from Peters spares, thanks for the heads up on that.put power across the two terminals. The dutchess tender buzzed but didnt run. Other tender wqs dead when i applied the power. My experience is limited, can the motors burn out?So frustrating when they dont run Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gez1970 Posted November 9, 2020 Author Share Posted November 9, 2020 Think its the 46255.. it used to run as it is. Put it away last year when i broke both my wrists.. wont run now or power up. Tried a 9v battery across the wheels, nothing.. Will look up to see id there is a model club Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81F Posted November 9, 2020 Share Posted November 9, 2020 /media/tinymce_upload/b9e13d7310ae70df19bfa79bb992decd.jpgI have a few locos with this arangement some of which were almost as badly bent. In all cases I was able to straighten them out but there was quite a bit of trial and error before i could get them to touch the brass pin. I would also add that both pin and strips were quite badly tarnished on mine so I also had to clean them up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gez1970 Posted November 9, 2020 Author Share Posted November 9, 2020 I bought the new coupling from peters spares, removed and replaced it. New brushes and springs, cleaned the commutator, still nothing. Reluctantly having to buy a new tender to get the dutchess going Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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