Black 5 Motor Completely Dead

[mikep7]

Could anyone please advise why my Black 5 (R3323) might be refusing to move. I've tried putting transformer leads to various terminals and wheels and get no reaction at all, it's completely dead. Background is that it was damaged en route to an eBay buyer, box end was crushed a bit but the inner plastic packaging and the loco itself seem untouched, pristine to look at in fact. What might a shock from being dropped do to the motor perhaps?

[Going Spare]

If the loco is electrically connected to its tender by a wired plug and socket and has a DCC socket on the tender chassis, is the plug still secure in its socket and none of the wires have become disconnected and is the DCC socket blanking plate still firmly in place?

[96RAF]

It could be as simple as the DCC socket blanking plug has been dislodged, as GS suggests. The buyer would have to take the tender lid off to check, presuming the socket is in the tender. Thereafter check the loco to tender plug also as advised earlier.

While the top is off battery power could be applied direct to pins 1 (orange) and 5 (grey) of the socket to see if the motor runs. Anything other than that will need a session with a multimeter doing continuity checks.

[atom3624]

Several factors at play here.

Are you certain the motor's 'dead'?

I hate those fiddly little 4-pin plugs, particularly on a locomotive which may require some frequent separation / maintenance - not long before one or more wires / pins become a bit loose.

One thing worth verifying - with care - is whether or not the motor is connected - it's a tight fit and if certain wires are not located correctly, a little tension could separate one or more.

Al.

[ColinB]

The favorite has got to be that 4 pin connector between loco and tender. I have had ones where it was not crimped properly so the wire falls out. I actually bought a socket and connected 1 to 2 and 3 to 4, so I can run the locos without the tender to see where the issue is.

[VESPA]

Is it the same loco?

[mikep7]

If the loco is electrically connected to its tender by a wired plug and socket and has a DCC socket on the tender chassis, is the plug still secure in its socket and none of the wires have become disconnected and is the DCC socket blanking plate still firmly in place?

 

 

I never thought about the blanking plate, I'm not DCC-savvy so have never delved into that. Will it have done any damage when I tried to run it with the plate was dislodged? I don't have the loco at the mo, a model shop is taking a look.

[mikep7]

Several factors at play here.

Are you certain the motor's 'dead'?

I hate those fiddly little 4-pin plugs, particularly on a locomotive which may require some frequent separation / maintenance - not long before one or more wires / pins become a bit loose.

One thing worth verifying - with care - is whether or not the motor is connected - it's a tight fit and if certain wires are not located correctly, a little tension could separate one or more.

Al.

 

 

Thanks Al, the little plug was still securely fastened and wires apparently intact.

[mikep7]

The favorite has got to be that 4 pin connector between loco and tender. I have had ones where it was not crimped properly so the wire falls out. I actually bought a socket and connected 1 to 2 and 3 to 4, so I can run the locos without the tender to see where the issue is.

 

 

Thanks. The 4-pin plug was silll firmly in place. I've since passed it to my local model shop to have a look so they'll probably spot the blanking plate as I didn't check that, I was more minded to think the motor had suffered shock damage from being dropped in the post.

[mikep7]

It could be as simple as the DCC socket blanking plug has been dislodged, as GS suggests. The buyer would have to take the tender lid off to check, presuming the socket is in the tender. Thereafter check the loco to tender plug also as advised earlier.

While the top is off battery power could be applied direct to pins 1 (orange) and 5 (grey) of the socket to see if the motor runs. Anything other than that will need a session with a multimeter doing continuity checks.

 

 

Thanks for the info, I remember viewing "OOBill" on YouTube checking electrical continuity with some sort of meter (not sure if my voltmeter has all the functions his has) but it all baffles me. The blanking plate is my best guess but I can't check just yet as I've asked a model shop to investigate.

[mikep7]

Is it the same loco?

 

 

Same as what?