1/48 Buccaneer ~ build review

[Ratch]

This is the new tooling from Airfix. The initial impressions is excellent, there is much fine detail to the panel lines, rivets, and raised detail where appropriate. The parts supplied include a detailed cockpit, gear bays, engines, a detailed bomb bay, the airbrake in the tail can be posed open or closed. Optional parts include boarding ladders, a contoured box inside the nose to carry weights if you intend to model the aircraft grounded, and a broad weapons load, the option to open the port engine bay, for which a styrene mask is provided for painting, two pilot figures, plus a set of FOD guards for the intakes and exhausts. 

Before commencing the build, a decision needs to be made regarding which of four weapons loud-outs you are planning to deploy.

Option A

2 x TV Martel anti-shipping missile

1 x Martel AS.37 Anti-Radiation Missile

1 x Martel Data-Link Pod

Option B

2 x Matra Rocket Pods

2 x ‘slipper’ Fuel Tanks

Option C

4 x wing-mounted 1,000lb iron bombs

Option D

4 x Bomb-Bay mounted 1,000lb iron bombs

It is very tempting to model this aircraft grounded, with wings folded and unarmed, boarding ladders attached and an empty cockpit with the canopy open. I always like to do something a little bit differently where possible. My choice is to model the aircraft in flight using a 1/24 stand, crew in the office and with the B payload.

Construction begins with drilling the holes necessary for the payload selected. Page 3 illustrates the payload options and pages 4 to 7 carry the guides to drilling location holes for these options. A pin vice is an ideal tool to execute this operation.

Page 8 illustrates the location of the internal decals cross referenced with later stages in the build. They’re not mentioned on the individual instruction steps, so cross-referencing is required to prevent omissions. 

At this point step one can be commenced, the construction of the two Mk.6 Martin Baker ejection seats. Stage 2 indicates options for the rear seat with the C variant having a different seat to the D. The seats consist of six parts each, with large multi-part cushions and the overhead emergency pull-handles.

the rear-seater’s instrument panel is made up with a recess on the front mating with a block on the back of the pilot’s launch rail, adding decals to the panel and the headbox of both the seats. Although the pilot’s seat initially appears to be identical to the navigator’s seat, it has a shorter tab on the back.

[Ratch]

Before placing the decals, I brush Humbrol Clear to provide a gloss finish that will minimise the chance of silvering.

As the crew figures take some time to paint, I’m making a start now, beginning with flesh tones. The figures should be ready when they’re required for the office.

The nose gear bay is fixed under the cockpit tub.

The consoles are detailed with individual panel that slot into moulded depressions. After painting decals will be placed to enhance the detail. 



[Dominic Thomas]

What a transformation in the seats! Can’t wait to see the rest of the build.

[Ratch]

Thanks for your interest Dom.

Humbrol Clear was brushed on in preparation for the instrument decals, and Humbrol DecalFix was used in their application.

Painting of the crew continued.

[Ratch]

Vallejo Game Wash Dipping Formula 73300 Sepia Shade was used to enhance the detail of the crew figures. The construction of the cockpit is carried out over eight stages. I anticipate a problem fitting the crew as late as stage 131 and decide to do it at this point. To say the fit is snug may be an understatement, and I’m glad I chose to perform the task early. The instrument panel and rudder pedals barely facilitate the pilot, and there is not much more room for the navigator with the front pilot’s seat also fixed with the navigator’s instrument panel. 

For those wishing to have the aircraft grounded a sleeve is provided in three parts. It is advised to insert 15 grammes of nose weight before closing it up. It would seem an ideal receptacle for liquid gravity, although your choice of weight may differ. This feature should make the task of avoiding a tail-sitter a thing of the past, cramming weights into any spaces available. If you plan to use the boarding ladders included, you should drill the appropriate holes at this time.  I shall omit these stages.

The nose side walls have moulded detail, which is further enhanced by the addition of small parts.

The cockpit is fitted into the port half of the nose and clicks into position with a tab. The is a corresponding tab on the starboard side too. The nose weight is inserted at this time (if it is used) and the nose glued together. The pilot’s coaming is then inserted. I found the fit less than perfect, a little filler was required.

[Pretty Mediocre Modeller]

Not a comment on your build Ratch, but the pilot seems a little undersized, can he actually see over that coaming?

[Ratch]

I think he can - just about.

I added the gunsight then painted the coaming. Vallejo 27651 Polyurethane Matt Varnish with a dash of Klear airbrushed in the cockpit which completes the work on the nose for the time being.

The next stages involve the painting and assembly of the jet pipe trunking. The framework for the main gear bays is part of this moulding ad is painted Satin US Ghost Grey. A bulkhead bridges across the two tubes and forms the rear wall of the bay. Another one mirrors this at the front. A third bulkhead slots onto the rear of the tubes, and two panels slide in between the two bulkheads. This strengthens the assembly and provides surface detail for the inner walls of the main gear bays. My only gripe is that the areas for painting gun metal and grey are not clearly defined.

At step 37, part B18, which is the lower fuselage half, and has the rotating bomb-bay roof moulded into it, is wrongly identified as sub-assembly 36.

The intake trunking is formed of a similar cross-brace construction with two circular alignment pins, like the earlier assembly.

The instructions advise to build steps 40 - 43 whether you intend to display the engine or not. This will help to align the parts. The port engine is made up in two halves. This is fitted between the forward bulkhead and the intake trunks, with some detail painted necessary before assembly. I know it wasn’t necessary for me to paint it, but I chose to. 

Stages 44 – 47 can be omitted if the engine cover is to be modelled closed. A curved plastic part is included with the word ‘MASK’ moulded in its surface that can be used to protect the engine during the main paintwork on the exterior of the model. If you plan to display the engine, the upper fuselage needs work, removing the access panel that has been helpfully thinned on the internal surface, making the task easier. A side wall is fitted and then the fuselage is set aside for a moment.

Stage 48 gives options for parts that only appear to be relevant if you have the wings folded. Ensure you assemble the correct parts for the variant you are building. I bagged and labelled these parts as they are not fitted until step 57, and it may have been better to have them one step before in the assembly sequence.

We then return to the fuselage assembly. If the model is to be built with folded wings steps 52 – 58 must be followed and steps 59 – 64 omitted. Stages 52 – 58 instruct you to paint the main gear bays and drill out holes in the spine. The fuselage halves are then joined only if you are folding the wings, where you are advised not to glue the aft bulkhead as it will help with alignment of the two halves. It is worth noting that RAF aircraft retained their wing-fold mechanisms, and they were often photographed with wings folded on airfields, despite this facility being to save space below deck on an aircraft carrier. The folded option involves inserting ribs into the wing roots that have spikes projecting from the top to receive the outer wing panels. 

Conversely, with unfolded wing you can omit steps 52 – 58 and resume directly with stage 59. Lugs are cut from the lower wings and in the case of the S.2D, the fifth vortex generator from the inside edge.



[Ratch]

Before the upper fuselage is fitted the wheel well interiors require painting, and a hole must be drilled for the variant being built.

For the exposed the engine, a brace is cemented across the bay. The bay door is fixed in place with four hinges that locate under the skin of the bay. This should be fitted at the end of the build. The mask is illustrated for use during exterior painting. The tail is moulded in two parts, and has an aft bulkhead inserted during closure.

The tail-hook housing sits nicely into the recess in the underside and is cemented there. The tail and the nose can then be fixed to the main fuselage assembly. A little pressure is required to ensure everything aligns correctly.

[Dominic Thomas]

I’m enjoying this, Ratch. Just like having ‘speaking instructions’ with constructive suggestions. Looking forward to the painting and markings stags. Great.

[Ratch]

Thanks Dominic, This will be an in-flight build, so not all the bells and whistles that I expect many to incorporate. I just hope I can give her a decent paint job.

[Ratch]

The intake trunkings are slotted over the pipes. They are tipped with a handed collar.

The exhausts are constructed in a similar fashion with inner and outer sleeves.  I have smeared some filler into the rear fuselage joints.

Stage 81 turns to the short flap-sections in top and bottom halves, fixed near to the exhausts either in line or raised at up to 40°.

The ailerons can be placed at 30° if required and two actuators are provided for either position. 

[Ratch]

The process then moved on to the T-tail, with separately moulded upper and lower halves, mated with the circular locating tabs. This is then glued onto the tail fin. The fairing above is another two-part subassembly, with alternatives for the C & D variants. This goes for the forward and rear bullet fairings. The elevators, and rudder panel are individual parts, which can be deflected if required.

This kit offers the option to fit the split tail cone that acts as the airbrake. For the open option stages 95 to 99 must be followed. I shall omit these stages and move on to the closed airbrake option. This comprises two halves and a central bulkhead that creates the vanes at the top and bottom of the fairing. This subassembly slots straight into the tail of the fuselage. 

Moving on to stage 102, a panel is added forward of the rotating bomb bay. I shall return to this stage after painting to fix the navigation light lens. Another panel is fixed aft of the bomb bay at step 104. The rotating bomb bay was an innovation incorporated into the aircraft. It seems a shame to hide the exquisite detail moulded here, but I need to use the closed door to take the stand I intend to use. An arrow is moulded into the interior surface of the bomb bay door.

I used this as a guide to cut a slot to take a 1/24 kit stand and then fixed it over the bay.

If you wish to model the bomb bay open, there are several parts that add to the detail in steps 103, and 106 to 108. The process begins by adding a detail insert in the front of the bay. There are five lengths of hose/cable fitted inside. In a similar manner two thick trunkings can be added to the main gear bays. With doors closed, I shall omit these too. The bombs are fitted later if you plan to fit them.

The landing gear had to be sturdy to cope with deck landings and catapult launches. Steps 111 to 125 address their assembly. The wheels are all moulded with a flat spot to simulate weighting. The wheels are shown as not glued in place; this may help get the flat spot on the bottom consistently. Although the closed doors are not expressly illustrated at any stage a modeller of Skill Level 4 should be able to work out how they are fitted. The hinges must be removed, and care taken to fix the doors in line with the surrounding panelling.

At stage 126 we fit the stage 48 subassembly and the similar subassembly from step 49 is attached at stage 127. Stage 126 also adds a probe and the wing tips are fixed at these stages too.

[Ratch]

Some pictures of Bruntingthorpe, 2015

[Ratch]

We now address the arrestor hook, either in the stowed position using a Y-shaped bracket or deployed with a different Y-shaped bracket and actuator. The hook itself is attached and a blade aerial is added nearby.

 

Moving to the nose at step 130, two blade antennae and two probes are fixed, and an aux-intake is added aft of these.

 

At this point (step 131) the instructions would have you choose whether to install the crew. As you know, I fitted them much earlier, but I did use the painting guide provided here. At step 132 a blast-shield is placed between the two crew positions. A choice of two windscreens is provided in case you wish to fit an aftermarket Photo-Etch (PE) wiper (not included) for the detail upgrader. The canopy also has two options, the detonator-cord breaker is moulded into the S.2D variant and the other without it for the S.2C.  The canopy can be posed open or closed using either of the two parts. Before attaching the clear parts I brush painted around the cockpit also the canopy framing freehand. The detonator cords were painted on the inside. 

I like to use PVA to secure transparencies and taped them down to ensure a close fit. The L-shaped refuelling probe is located into a recess on the nose, and the spine is adorned with antennae and lights depending on the option you have choose to depict.

I think the way the weapons options are labelled is a great improvement for an ignoramus like myself. In the past knowledgeable people have advised that certain aircraft carry specific weapons and left me bemused because they weren’t identified. Each weapon, tank and pylon are clearly identified in steps 137 to 162. Well done, Airfix, almost a step back to the Locate & Cement style of instructions that were so educational in the 50s and 60s. As stated earlier, I have opted for payload B comprising 2 x Matra Rocket Pods and 2 x ‘slipper’ Fuel Tanks. This entails the assembly steps 145 to 153. Before the load is attached to the wings painting of the model and decals must be applied.

 

Without going into assembly specifics, all the weapons have pylons suitable for purpose, some have additional parts to thicken their mounting-points. The bombs are provided with either pylons for wing-mounting, or cleats for mounting inside the bomb bay. All the under-wing stores have stencils and painting guides included on the main sheets. I will make up these weapons and stash them for future projects, carefully labelled of course. The model is ostensibly complete now, but several extras have been provided that will add visual interest for the grounded model. Two crew ladders with separate stand-off brackets are provided that are fixed to the nose using the holes drilled before the nose was joined. Foreign Object Debris (FOD) guards are also provided for the intakes and exhausts. These have nicely moulded detail, and the exhaust FODs have a T-shaped handle.

[SD45elect2000]

I would have struggled to make the choice which option to build. I know myself and if I chose one, I would regret it. I would have built all four options. Is that OCD?

Looks like a nice clean build Ratch.

Randall

[Ratch]

I know exactly what you mean Randall. I wish I could build about ten more innocent

[null_null981707818191]

I've been following your three build reviews with interest - this one, and the two Jaguar cars. Thanks for sharing insights, techniques and tips! My only question is how on earth do you manage to build three such different kits at the same time? I struggle to sort out some of the difficulties that I encounter doing only one build at a time. Perhaps I need to be more organised...

[Ratch]

I like to run a few builds concurrently. As one needs to be put aside for glue to set or paint to dry, I can move on to another project. Apart from these three, I'm also painting an Italeri set of cavalry figures.

I guess I am fairly organised. For a number of years, I have recorded how I build my models and what paints I use, so, if I build that kit again or a similar subject, I'm reminded of where I had difficulties and the solutions to the problems. Also, if I build something similar, or if I need to touch up paintwork, the colours will match.

[null_null981707818191]

Thanks Ratch - food for thought - especially in terms of colour matching.

[Ratch]

Oh, and I'm also building the Airfix 54mm Bengal Lancer sweat_smile

I've started brush painting with Vallejo Model Color 70994 166 Dark Grey for the airframe.

[ian_rutland]

That looks like a super kit. I may get one, but have three of the old ones in the stash, plus one almost complete. These take a little work, but still look good when completed. I bought a box of loose parts for this kit for £10, so I was pleased to see almost 3 complete kits, plus extra decals and stores included. The price put me off a bit.

[Ratch]

This is a vast improvement on the old Bucc. Better build them first or you won't touch them after this one.

[Ratch]

Not a lot to see, but I have been working on it. After the overall colour was laid down, I painted the navigation light reflectors and then airbrushed with Klear. I then realised that I hadn’t painted with Desert Yellow tips to the fin, the canopy frame, and top surfaces of the inner flaps. These were brushed again, as were the leading edges of the tail and the refuelling probe tip. I then did touch ups.



[Ratch]

As previously stated, the additional stores will be saved to Spares.

Squadron decals applied, next the stencils.

[paul71]

an interesting build ratch looking good,

my main memory of the buccaneer is seeing it at the airshow just after it had come back from the gulf war some thirty years ago in its desert scheme