Couplers

[milepost48]

what is the catalogue number of these Tillig couplings?

[Rallymatt]

08841 is a pack of 56 couplings.

[TT-Man]

Contrary to what has been said earlier in this thread the Hornby supplied couplings are not exactly the same as the Tillig ones. The visual clue is a small extra moulding that looks a bit like a vacuum pipe on the Hornby ones. Although they will work together the Tillig ones are far superior if you want to shunt or marshal your stock as described by Rallymatt above.

I tested the Tillig electric uncoupler with the Hornby supplied uncouplers and the Tillig ones. Often the Hornby ones will not uncouple and the two items of rolling stock are lifted from the track and remain connected. The same often happens if you use a Tillig magnetic wand or use any manual device to uncouple from below.

This is due inconsistency in the manufacture of the Hornby supplied couplings. Some are just tight too tight a fit with each other. Even applying lubrication such as graphite doesn't help.

Of course if you are keeping your stock semi-permanently coupled all of this is irrelevant.

[D9020 Nimbus]

That's disappointing — one advantage that TT has over N is that uncoupling is a lot easier — it is with Tillig anyway. So it looks as if it'll be necessary to replace the couplings on stock that has to be shunted, and I find the Tillig couplings very fiddly to install — they're supplied in kit form, and the metal part is very thin (too thin to hold with tweezers). And unlike tension-locks in OO (or TT-3 for that matter) you can't dispense with the hook on one of the couplings and expect them to stay coupled (I've tried, on a Piko V20).

If the couplings have to be changed anyway, Dapol Easi-Shunts become an option — it's not as if Tillig couplings are cheap.

[Rallymatt]

Hi Nimbus, the EasiShunts use a different NEM pocket to TT so the fitting isn’t right.

I now have a pack of 10 easi shunts and magnets that I am putting on eBay and taking a loss on 😳

Earlier in this thread I describe the issues with Easi Shunts. I am more than pleased with my Tillig couplings though so happy I found a solution.

[D9020 Nimbus]

NEM355 (N gauge) and NEM358 (TT) are supposed to be identical. I haven't tried them on Tillig (or any other TT model) but have tried them on various N gauge brands including Dapol (obviously) Fleischmann and Brawa with no issues — but they are too big to fit in the pockets on Farish stock…

Perhaps the two standards are slightly different after all: an N gauge coupling has to be capable of lifting, a TT one doesn't, yet Fleischmann Profi couplings have been used on both…

[Rallymatt]

I tried Easi shunts in my TT Arnold Ferry vans and they flap about like an untethered sail on a windy day. They also sit down too far, the trip pin will hit the track. Please buy mine and try them 🤣

[david_watts1]

Decided to buy a couple of packs of the West Hill Wagon Works magnetic couplings since my Arnold TT:120 epoch 3 coaches have a will of their own.

[ntpntpntp]

Comparing the MOROP pdfs for the coupling pockets NEM 355 (N) and NEM 358 (TT), the drawings look identical and indeed the text itself says "Die Kupplungsaufnahme ist identisch mit derjenigen für die Nenngröße N nach NEM 355. " ie. the pocket design is identical.

Comparing the MOROP pdfs for coupling heads NEM 357 (N) and NEM 359 (TT) the obvious difference is in the rear coupling shaft. The N coupling head has to lift so it will interact with the tongue at the top of the pocket, and the rear of the shaft has a sloping cutaway underneath. The TT coupling NEM 359 lacks both the top recess for the tongue and also the rear undercut, as it is not intended to lift.

So.. N couplings should fit the TT pocket and v.v. Dapol easy-shunts aren't supposed to lift like Rapidos do, so I guess their shaft will be more to NEM 359 design (as would Fleischmann Profi couplings?)

@Rallymatt I am surprised you found the Easy-shunts "flap about". You mean vertically up and down? The NEM spec for the height of the pocket is also identical for N and TT so again surprised you say the Easy-shunt trip pins foul the track.

https://www.morop.org/downloads/nem/de/nem355_d.pdf

https://www.morop.org/downloads/nem/de/nem358_d.pdf

https://www.morop.org/downloads/nem/de/nem357_d.pdf

https://www.morop.org/downloads/nem/de/nem359_d.pdf

[Rallymatt]

Yes ntp x 3… up and down although they are just normally drooping and that’s what caused the trip pin to catch going over points. This was on the Arnold ferry vans so whether the Kinematic system isn’t designed to cope with the weight of the Easi Shunt couplings or they are just not very rigid I don’t know. The shaft on the ES doesn’t engage in the pocket like the std TT ones either. It was same in the pockets of both the Piko loco and Arnold vans.

[britishcolum]

I had got some Dapols to install in the NEM pocket of a Roco M62 to represent the AAR-style coupler used in Korea, but found that they droop too.

As well I found they put the coupler head lower than is correct for body-mounted couplers on NorAm models even though the pockets are at (almost) the same height, so even though theoretically the Dapols do mate with Microtrains/Kadee HOn3 couplers, in practice that didn't work out due to the difference in vertical position.

[Old Kent Biker]

Can the standard Hornby couplers (or the Tillig alternatives) be uncoupled with under-track electro-magnets, or do they need a physical ramp?

[ntpntpntp]

I doubt magnets will work, the Tillig style have a lifting trip pin so presume a ramp.

[Rallymatt]

I suppose it is possible to magnetise the small metal hook and then set the under board magnets to same pole and the hooks should repel… in the meantime I use a magnet from above 😁

[LaurieB]

tramfabriek.nl have introduced a chopper coupling for 009 narrow gauge. Can be worked by a magnet. Looks interesting and may be ok for TT:120

[david_watts1]

My magnetic Hunt couplings arrived yesterday, the close ones are the direct Hornby/Arnold etc replacement. They have cured my Arnold German DR 4 and 6 wheel coaches from uncoupling when they feel like it. In fact I'm so impressed and don't intend running a shunting layout I might change all of my stock to them. Uncoupling when you have continuous 15v live to the track using a metal tool will be unadvised with the current ones.

[D9020 Nimbus]

Tillig make a magnetic tool which lifts the couplings from above. Generally fine on wagons, not very useful on coaches which are usually too close together.

[Rallymatt]

The Tillig couplings can also be uncoupled with an uplift from below, and vehicles separate easily, the similar looking ones from various manufacturers ‘stick’ together and are very frustrating to separate.

[mcr22]

Have found a small magnetic screwdriver is great for uncoupling. It slips easily between the rolling stock and lifts the hooks

[david_watts1]

Having watched 'Sam's Trains' review it looks like a glue spreader is an essential tool especially since it's plastic and when the HM7000 system comes the rails will be continuously live. Currently I'm using a clay sculpting tool.

[Rallymatt]

I liked that idea on Sam’s trains, something non conductive is a smart move, after looking through my tool box draws I found an angled narrow plastic automotive trim removal tool that is ideal for the underside method ie on coaching stock

[ADShimmin]

Here's my solution:

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/177215-a-family-tt-adventure/?do=findComment&comment=5083739

[david_watts1]

Got my multipack of Hunt magnetic couplings today and had a play. My German stock is now fully magnetic and it has cured the unruly coaches. I have had to use an intermediate one on the back of the BR95 since the close one was too short and derailed the coaches due to buffer lock. I've not quite decided yet whether to go fully magnetic on my British stock, but the pictures shows a definite improvement using the Extra Close couplings, you do need to trim the shaft as shown to get it into the pocket. A bit of black paint or a marker will hide the silver magnet.