null_null981707818191 Posted December 23, 2022 Share Posted December 23, 2022 So the Bristol F.2B is now finished, adding to my little line-up of WW1 aircraft (joining the Fokker Triplane, the Fokker DV and the Sopwith Camel about which I have previously posted). The Bristol F.2B is indeed an ancient kit, as you can see from the date moulded inside the fuselage, and this of course meant one or two problems with fit (and filling!), not to mention having to completely scratch an undercarriage ‘leg’ because there was only one in the box (and I didn’t think it worth contacting the spares department given the kit’s age!). The one on the left was my version.I tried to include a bit of cockpit detail by adding an instrument panel, and the supplied machine gun mount was totally the wrong shape (and not in any way to scale, being far too thick to be realistic or useable) so a replacement was fabricated with stretched sprue.Other additions included the ‘bolts’ added to the propeller ‘hub’, and when it came to rigging, I added the ‘wires’ and horns for the wing and tail flaps.Like the new mould BE2c which conveniently comes with strut alignment supports, I decided to try and add the struts to the bottom wing first, using a cardboard guide that I cut to the correct 14° angle. Once they had set very hard, I then added the top wing (which lined up more or less exactly) and finally squeezed in the cabane struts.The rigging was far more challenging than that experienced on the previous three WW1 models, the Bristol being double-bay, and to judge from the illustrations that I found, far more elaborately rigged in each bay. I used AK Thin fastened with Super-Thin Rocket Hot CA.As with the previous RFC Camel, paints were applied with a brush, using Vallejo Model Air Brown Violet Brown RLM81 which seems to be very close to PC10, with the undersides being painted with 71075 Sand Ivory. The cowling was painted with Mid Ocean Grey (which seemed to be more or less the correct shade and finish). Varnished wood-work areas (the propeller and struts) were painted using a variety of brown and yellow tones to give a grained finish once varnished.The decals were in very good condition, and were those supplied in the box, being the markings for the aircraft flown on the Western Front in 1917 by Canadian ‘ace’ Major Andrew McKeever DSO MC* - who accounted for at least 29 enemy aircraft whilst a member of 11 Squadron.With each of the WW1 aircraft I’ve built, I hope I’ve added a bit more modelling technique or developed a modelling skill a little bit more. The kits have certainly been more of a challenge than some more modern (in every sense) Airfix offerings. Next on to the work-top is probably going to be the latest E.III Eindekker – a monoplane, so the rigging should be a little easier and everything should fit better! Thanks for taking a look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailorman Posted December 23, 2022 Share Posted December 23, 2022 Very nicely done. It shows what can be achieved with that little (or not so little) extra effort! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted December 23, 2022 Share Posted December 23, 2022 Nicely done. What is AK Thin? A glue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SD45elect2000 Posted December 23, 2022 Share Posted December 23, 2022 Outstanding model!Randall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurricane Boy Posted December 24, 2022 Share Posted December 24, 2022 Hi n_n98A very nice job indeed. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleD Posted December 24, 2022 Share Posted December 24, 2022 Excellent!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
null_null981707818191 Posted December 24, 2022 Author Share Posted December 24, 2022 Thanks for some lovely compliments. I know we build really for ourselves, but it's nice when others enjoy what we've done! To answer your question Ratch, the AK Thin to which I referred describes itself as "high elastic stretch rigging" - it comes on a 20m bobbin, which should get me through my WW1 phase... I've tried the Super-thin, but it's almost invisible! On the next build, I'm going to try using some CA kicker, because the Eindecker needs some precision placement, especially on the top of the wing! Best wishes to everyone for a very Happy Christmas! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted December 24, 2022 Share Posted December 24, 2022 To answer your question Ratch, the AK Thin to which I referred describes itself as "high elastic stretch rigging" - it comes on a 20m bobbin, which should get me through my WW1 phase... Happy Christmas! Merry Christmas.Sounds a lot like the Aeroclub Rigging Thread that I use. Elasticated, on a reel, I have loads too. I don't think you can get it any more, so good to know of an alternative, though I also have some E-Z Line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dominic Thomas Posted December 25, 2022 Share Posted December 25, 2022 Your suggestion of building this kit made me search out mine, which I started a few [several] days ago.You have made a great job of yours, and I hope mine can turn out at least half as good, then I’ll be pleased.I like what you have done with the cockpits. I am using a mix of AK Thin and Infini Model Fine [0.082mm]. I use the latter for the control wires and the former for the bracing wires. I know what you mean about the complication of the rigging. I have had to search out many pictures in order to get some idea of what the reality was. A tip I could suggest is that for these 1/72 models we are currently building, I try to source plans for 1/32 versions where they exist because they tend to include rigging diagrams which help enormously.I notice you also suffered from missing parts in that there are no ‘bumper braces’ under each outer lower wing. I’ve looked and cannot find them on mine, even though they are mentioned on the colour plans of the instructions.So, thanks very much for sharing, thanks for providing the incentive to have a go, and Merry Christmas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
null_null981707818191 Posted December 27, 2022 Author Share Posted December 27, 2022 Hi ThomasGood tip regarding looking at the diagrams for 1/32 builds - I'll give that a whirl for sure.As to the 'missing' bumper braces under each wing tip, they certainly weren't in my kit, and absolutely no mention of them on the instructions - although they do appear on the box-art; they wouldn't be too difficult to fabricate from stretched sprue and retro-fit if I have a moment.. You mentioned 'colour plans' of the instructions: mine were very definitely monochrome. At least by 1988 (when mine was boxed/printed) there were pictorial instructions, rather than the original purely text versions as originally supplied way back when.But all part of the pleasure/challenge of building old/classic kits I suppose.Hope Santa brought you lots to build! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted December 27, 2022 Share Posted December 27, 2022 The old 'locate & cement' instructions were very educational. My generation learned the names of a multitude of components. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
null_null981707818191 Posted December 27, 2022 Author Share Posted December 27, 2022 You make an excellent point Ratch - perhaps there's an extra marketing 'tool' for Airfix to include in the instructions for the re-released 'Classic' kits a facsimile of the original 'locate and cement' sheet - although I do recall a few problems if the staple through the folded paper baggie top could sometimes tear the instructions if not prised open carefully. Nostalgia isn't what it used to be! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dominic Thomas Posted December 27, 2022 Share Posted December 27, 2022 Sorry for the confusion. I was referring to instructions from the ‘red box’ edition which show colours and markings for 11 and 12 Squadrons. If I remember correctly, the ‘bumper bars’ have a colour specified - black. Strange then that the kit doesn’t include them, and never has done I don’t think. As you say, should be simple to add. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dominic Thomas Posted December 27, 2022 Share Posted December 27, 2022 I have to say that I’ve tried to find old period photos, and of all the ones I’ve found, they all show the bars. So as you say, or imply, it’s up to the individual. I certainly plan to add them but I’ve not scratch built much, so even this will be a challenge for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dominic Thomas Posted January 22, 2023 Share Posted January 22, 2023 Having finished mine, I think yours is the better one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
null_null981707818191 Posted January 23, 2023 Author Share Posted January 23, 2023 That's very kind (and overly modest!) of you Dominic. I think we both deserve a pat on our respective backs for producing two good builds from a venerable kit. I'm certainly happy with the way mine turned out, and I hope you feel the same about your version - on which (I have to say) I think the cowling colour is more accurate than on mine.So I guess we're tied for first place! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard-353643 Posted April 21, 2023 Share Posted April 21, 2023 Going to the PC10 colour; on other web sites (and museums) there seems to be a lot of debate on more brown/more green so how would you rate accuracy?Also it seems to me that the Germans went in for a lot of individual colour motifs/additions/variations even after they started printing the lozenge patterns on the fabric; and even unit themes like the colour of cowlings.Any good places for historical information? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
null_null981707818191 Posted April 21, 2023 Author Share Posted April 21, 2023 Hi Richard - If you look at the various forum sites that make reference to PC10 I think it's fair to say that you will not find a definitive answer! My understanding is that it was a greenish finish originally, which 'faded' to a brownish colour - so I guess both could well be correct... Which is of very little help, I'm afraid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard-353643 Posted April 21, 2023 Share Posted April 21, 2023 Thanks! Good enough for me. There's plenty of debate out there anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailorman Posted April 21, 2023 Share Posted April 21, 2023 Ratch mentioned the "locate and cement" instructions! ........That's where I picked up a lot of nautical terms grinning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted April 21, 2023 Share Posted April 21, 2023 They were very educational. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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