1/48 Westland Sea King HAS.1 build review

[Ratch]

You will note that the thread title only refers to the HAS.1, whereas the kit also offers HAS.5 and HU.5 variants. Right from the outset the modeller must decide which variant it is intended to model if they wish to reproduce an accurate facsimile. I have opted for the HAS.1 variant.

Don't expect lots of fancy stuff. I am an average modeller tackling the kit in much the same way as many will. I am no Sea King expert, and so the build will basically follow the instructions.

My In-box Review can be found here.

[Ratch]

As stated, I have opted for the HAS.1 variant and opened the holes in preparation for assembly. 

For this variant some recesses need filling, I use Vallejo Model 70400 Plastic Putty. Some aerials require removing too. 

There are also some protrusions on the hull that need filing off. 

This is where the decision not to have raised rivets is justified as they would be obliterated and not able to be reinstated.

[Ratch]

Assembly could now start in earnest. 

The rear wall of the cockpit and P-point consume the first five steps.

[Ratch]

We then tackle the front seats. I assembled these before painting. To ensure the legs had the right spread, I positioned them in the cab floor locating points while the glue set.

[Ratch]

A little more done in the office.

[Ratch]

Assembly and painting may seem complicated, but this is an intricate subject. It really pays to take things slowly and try not to rush. If you can plan your tasks in a logical sequence of events, it will help to avoid silly errors.

[Ratch]

More office painting and brushed Humbrol Clear on the instrument panels. I assembled the various radar equipment and started painting the sub-assemblies.

DecalFix was used in the application of the IP decals. 

Here's a comparison with the real thing at Chard on presentation day.

These are later variants than the one I'm modelling, but they give you an impression.

[Hurricane Boy]

Very nice work on the cockpit Ratch. That IP is looks great.

It appears this is another great kit from Airfix!

Makes me want to look into the differences between the Westland and Sikorsky versions…. I do know that the RCN units being early Sikorsky variants (1963) had shorter sponsons than the later units. Not sure about the engines and their intakes.

Continuing to watch this unfold.

Tim

[Ratch]

Thanks Tim, Luke (Airfix researcher) said at the presentation that there are significant differences between the Sikorsky and Westland Sea Kings. That's not to say that a conversion could not be done, but this kit will not be offered as a Sikorsky variant.

[Ratch]

Here is the Observer’s console with the radar / tactical display (the circular thing) and the master compass etc above his head pictured next to a 1/1 scale pen.

Next, we have the Aircrewman’s sonar display.

This third piece is the Sonar Type 195 body in its pit-head gear.

[Ratch]

The sub-assemblies are then fitted in the cargo/operations area behind the cockpit. Rear bulkheads are added. 

The inner wall trimmed and drilled.

[Ratch]

I painted the internal walls of the cabin then decided I couldn’t live with the ejector pin marks, and promptly filled them.

[Ratch]

Three windows in the fuselage require blocking off. 

With the inner walls sanded and re-painted I could start assembling the cocoon. 

Tape helps hold the parts together while the glue sets. 

I found it best to locate all three sections and tape together rather than let each piece set and find out I haven’t aligned the sections correctly. 

I tackled the outer fuselage shell in a similar manner. 

I must say it is a clever piece of engineering. Everything has fitted very positively so far.

[Ratch]

Moving on to the hull, I selected the correct nose part and fitted the clear part, then attached the whole to the hull plate. I thought it best to mask the clear lenses(?) and attempted with masking fluid, but this was uncontrollable. I then got my die punch set and selected the best match for the lenses. This worked perfectly and will protect them until they are finally unmasked.

The hull was then fixed.

The next few steps deal with the gubbins around the engine. 

Looking back at the hull, I had a hairline gap so decided to fill with the merest smear of AK Modelling Putty (white).

[Clive-363967]

Looks a fantastic kit,your doing a grand job , glad airfix included a full interior , look forward to seeing it finished

[Ratch]

Thanks for looking in, Clive, and for your encouraging feedback. Airfix have raised the bar again with this one!

[Ratch]

The engine panels were fitted, and I used a little putty for gap filling. 

Some part removal/trimming is required to the spine of the tail. Then the spine and radar thimble are fitted, followed by the nose plate. 

We then move on to the undercarriage sponsons. 

At the risk of sounding like an old broken-down record, good clean-up and preparation really do pay dividends. I was very much a slap it together and paint it style of modeller. The new generation Airfix kits are designed with such precision that my old approach ends up with an ill-fitting mess. 

I haven’t yet mastered the skill set or concentration required. I still get carried away with the excitement of progress. I must take a deep breath and reset and remember that taking my time will be worth it in the long run – at least, I hope it will.

[Hurricane Boy]

Hi Ratch

The build looks like it is coming along quite well. Thank you far taking the time to share with us!

Good note to all of us regarding the tight fit and care required to get a good result. Quite a few builders have noted this on the forum….just a thin coat of paint on a mating surface can send the whole project south.

It looks like a well engineered kit…is that your impression?

Tim

[Ratch]

Very much so, Tim. Even more innovative than the 1/24 Spitfire kit. This Sea King sets new standards. It demonstrates how the design team are developing too.

[Ratch]

Undercarriage fitted

[Ratch]

The instruction now moves on to the tail rotor. There are options of having the rotor deployed or folded. Again, the modeller must decide the way to go. I shall build with tail and rotors folded. 

We are getting to a stage where we must plan for the main paintwork. Parts and subassemblies will have to be left off until after painting has been undertaken. Then we must remember to return to the various steps to complete the build.

I chose the canopy with windscreen wipers, and I masked the glazing before fitting them to the fuselage. 

I brush painted the interior framework and I then picked out the instruments with a brush. 

When I fitted the clear parts I noticed that the starboard fuselage was short shot. 

I filled the hole with plastic card cut to shape.

[paul71]

this is looking good ratch, and a well designed kit you are doing justice to.

[Ratch]

Thank-you Paul, this one really raises the bar.

[Ratch]

There is a specific array of aerials, antennas and other such gubbins to attach. 

I shall attach the doors after airbrushing.

I have started assembling the main rotors.

They will be folded.

[Ratch]

Painting and assembly of the main rotor ensued. 

I then turned to the main paintwork. 

I used kitchen sponge to mask out all apertures in the fuselage before airbrushing grey primer, remembering to airbrush the rotor blades, folding tail, and doors.