TaffsTT Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 (edited) Hello all. Bit of help needed please. I took the body off my Mallard (well tried) in an attempt to retrieve the lost black tape from under front bogie area. First observation / query - does the body just come clear with the 3 screws like it states in manual and is there meant to be a part of the wheel connecting rods connected to body shell? Second observation - can anyone tell me where the spare part belongs and how I fit it back on? Could someone check their Mallard for me so I can compare? I have uploaded a YT video of the incident on my channel @TaffsTT120. YT content link below - "17. I broke my Mallard": Edited February 22 by Taff TT Added content Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rog RJ Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 The bit that is stu k in the body is the speedo drive and it should be like that. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaffsTT Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 Just now, Rog RJ said: The bit that is stu k in the body is the speedo drive and it should be like that. Phew - thanks for that. Any idea what mystery part is Rog RJ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rog RJ Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 (edited) That part should be connected between the middle wheel and the back wheel like the other side of the loco. It looks broken. I could be wrong on both parts though. Edited February 22 by Rog RJ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daedalus Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 (edited) You have to remove the con rod screw on the rear wheel to release the speedo and the body should lift off. It is the same as other A4s Edited February 22 by Daedalus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaffsTT Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 Thankyou. Dont think manual stated that. Will check. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daedalus Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 It has been commented on before that it in not in the instructions. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 'Older' period Gresley locos have an 'oiler' only, which is what this is. Not sure if TT still requires a 2.5mm hex driver, or is it smaller? Looks like you need to carefully remove the tiny screw, lift the link off the cam - should be shaped and the hole actually ovalled to orientate it, then the body should be free. I could be wrong, but perhaps when you tried to lift the body off, with this attached, it misaligned it, so make sure you locate it properly when you replace it. Once I remove either the oiler, or the speedo drives (late BR steam locos have the speedo drive as well - great fun) I normally replace the screw so the coupling rod doesn't flop about everywhere and/or I don't lose the screw. State the obvious, but a 'gentle nip' is all that's needed on replacing - these are very easily snapped!! Hope it helps. I'm very familiar with the OO version, but this looks very similar. Al. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 Al (Atom) is right and good tip on replacing the screw. Anyone intending home servicing would be advised getting the ‘Nut Spinner’ tool or making one to remove the rod bolts. A4’s have the mechanical lubricator link between body and the motion, A1/A3 doesn’t. There is a pivot between leading and centre driving wheels but this is secured by a saddle bracket attached only to chassis not the body so can be ignored. I do think this is something Hornby should assist with as the lubricator linkage is not covered by the service sheet and it’s an easy thing to damage. If the entire linkage is free and not knarled up from motion end, a dab of superglue to attach body end and careful location of the rod onto the shaped cam on the axle should see this fixed. Good luck 👍 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaffsTT Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 Thanks all. I didnt detach the oiler and do have the conrod spanner. The loco still runs but its missing the black bit which I think is broken? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntpntpntp Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 Maybe post a clear close-up still photo of the left-over black part so someone can identify it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaffsTT Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 35 minutes ago, ntpntpntp said: Maybe post a clear close-up still photo of the left-over black part so someone can identify it? Will do thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaffsTT Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaffsTT Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 It doesnt look broken - has it come off something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 It goes here 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaffsTT Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 (edited) Awesome! Thankyou @Rallymatt Edited February 22 by RDS Picture removed. No need to post the picture again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaffsTT Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 What about this small plastic washer? Tender bar, front bogie screw or body screw. Can only one of these three as thats all I removed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaffsTT Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 I think its the front body screw as the hole and washer shape is "dished". Hope this helps someone else too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Fox 17 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 It is from the front bogie fixing, I have no idea why it is there unless it is to give the screw more grip. The arm should not move and on many of mine I have discarded it but that is me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Fox 17 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 The "dished" hole is for a countersunk screw to fit into the casting and not be proud of the surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaffsTT Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 Thanks. I think this image also shows good fouling of the front bogie and suspect where it sticks and lifts off track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaffsTT Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 (edited) Sorry as I bet the mods and everyone is as fed up with this as me, but found another part now! Anybody know this bit and where from? Its like shedding parts currently. Edited February 23 by Taff TT Added image Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 The marks inside the body will probably be finishing after plastic body comes out if mould rather than witness marks from interference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 Not 100% from the photo of part but looks like it’s part of the motion that attaches to the saddle bracket on the chassis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaffsTT Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 9 minutes ago, Rallymatt said: The marks inside the body will probably be finishing after plastic body comes out if mould rather than witness marks from interference. @RallymattOn this occassion I dont think so. The "rubbed" plastic is clearly still visible and the front of the bogie also has wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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