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Fox waterslide decals - safe to clear coat with Tamiya acrylic ?


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Never heard of anyone having decals damaged by overcoating with anything like that.

I use Microscale gloss under the decal and satin over the top, never had a problem with any brand of decal nor with the ones I produce myself on an old ALPS Microdry printer.ย 

Best thing if you're not certain is to test the varnish on a spare decal that won't be used on the model.

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Totally agree with above.

The question was good.ย  I have had some issues with transfers - one ruined a repaint of a Hornby Lord Nelson body into 850 in Southern Malachite green.ย  All was good, so simply needed to seal in with lacquer / varnish ... the rest wasn't very pleasant!!ย  Pity, it looked great!

Al.

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I have had problems with spray varnish curling up some transfers and also reacting with the paint underneath. On one Tri-ang Princess I did one side is perfect, the other all the transfers lifted and the paint crazed and I have no idea why as I did it all at the same time. I would have thought that acrylic would be less likely to react as itโ€™s water based.ย 

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10 hours ago, Rana Temporia said:

... I have no idea why as I did it all at the same time....

Perhaps, Rana, you could explain your process so as to better diagnose any issue?

Does it include:

Keying the surface for adhesion

Cleaning the part before paint

Primer coat(s)

Color coat(s)

Sealing the acryllic with a top coat(s).

Application of gloss coat in water slide location.ย  Water slides do not like matt finish.

After water slide applied, sufficient time to thoroughly dry

Top coat sealing over water slide

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I am certainly not an expert.ย  Finishes, like painting, are my Achilles Heel.ย  Far be it from me to criticize others, when my efforts are so miserable.ย  My efforts are mostly preparation for the color coat.ย  Still cannot get that amazing professional appearance.ย ย 

Someday, maybe...

Bee

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Bee, a very heavily damaged green Tri-ang Princess. Washed thoroughly and left to dry. Spayed with Halford grey undercoat. Precision paints BR loco green and Humbrol satin black for the black parts. Canโ€™t remember the BR?GWR orange/black/orange lining I used but the tender had overall sticky restoration from Lawrence somebody or other on eBay. When the loco and tender were fully dry I sprayed them with some satin varnish. One side of the loco is as I intended, the other is abysmal. I have used similar paints/methods before with no problems. Itโ€™s now in a box somewhere in the attic.ย 

Years ago I did some hand painted locos similar to as described with Matt varnish spray and they looked so good I took my Tri-ang/Hornby pannier and sprayed it with the same varnish only to have the GWR transfers curl up and fall off. Lesson learned!

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Sounds like you followed all the steps.ย 

The only slightly troublesome bit might be the 'sticky restoration'.ย  Plastics can become sticky when too much solvent is used on them, like acetone.ย  I wiped down one sticky bit of plastic with acetone and quite a bit of plastic came away.ย  But the underlying surface then became sticky.ย  I finally resorted to mechanically scraping the plastic to relieve the gooey layer.ย ย 

There would be no way that paint would ever have adhered to that surface, prior to scraping.ย  Too soft as a semi liquid mess.ย  Post scraping, yes I could paint it, should I want to, dry and firm.

Bee

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Bee, the sticky bit I referred to was from a seller on eBay. He produced some A5 restoration packs for Tri-ang locos on sticky paper. For the tenders they were great as they covered all the smooth sides and were very effective but for the lined areas on the locos such as the cab sides they were a bit thick and you had to paint the edges in. Black locos not a problem but for green matching the colours was a bit hit and miss. I did get very good results with his 3MT tank sides. Colour in the black edges and some matt varnish and the finish was great. No need to mess around with lining transfers.ย 

He actually did a choice of Tri-ang type lining for the locos and tenders or correct style with the options of loco names and numbers that were never produced. There is someone doing something similar at the moment but I think his are water slide so should give a better finish.ย 

I have had some of the repro Tri-ang transcontinental transfers off eBay and they have been very good. I have sealed them with Matt acrylic varnish with no problems after a couple of days drying. You really canโ€™t tell the difference from the originals.ย 

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For what it's worth, I stick to Vallejo and Railmatch acrylics for both paint and varnish, preferring to avoid any danger of reaction between mixed and matched media. A crinkly signalbox taught me a lot about that.

These are a couple of full repaints I did a couple of years ago with a sealing coat of Vallejo satin varnish over Fox lining. Both locos started off the same colour - muddy maroon.

2024-07-20_09-17-40.jpg

2024-07-20_09-12-09.jpg

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I believe I used Humbrol acrylic gloss varnish on Fox waterslide transfers - they didn't agree with each other.

I don't like too many layers of primer, coat, preparation, lacquer, cover, etc., as they limit the previously clear detailing such as joins, rivets, etc.

Al.

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For the sake of completion, one converted to BR from LMS Jinty. TBH the camera shows the decal lines on the numbers worse than it looks to the naked eye, but yes they are a bitย  ย as I had to cut two numbers out individually so I began with a 4 as most Pictures of real ones I have seen do. after that it was artistic license, or rule #1ย ๐Ÿ˜‹

jinty.thumb.jpg.1cdf7867b015c4ec5ce7b9279792345e.jpg

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Strange .. post had to be approved and words were removed, could the mods please enlighten me as to what was wrong with the phrase I used to describe the out of alignment numbersย  as I honestly can not see how that could in any way be inappropriate ?

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It would likely be the undressed word. Considering we are now an 18+ forum I would expect the basic naughty file to be more forgiving.

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Thank you Bee, I only repainted the watertank/coal bunker sides, Pot luck that the Vallejo matt black (brushed on) once coated with Tamiya Acrylic Satin Clear (spray can) was a pretty close match, of course the colour helped with that !

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9 hours ago, Too Tall said:

ย ... what was wrong with the phrase I used to describe the out of alignment numbersย  ...

Its still there.ย  "...n***d eye...", or as 96RAF puts it "undressed".ย  I have used the same expression as well, with similar moderator action.

When the naughty word filter is too strict, it flags innocent phrases.ย 

High magnification with artificial lighting exposes flaws that would be unnoticeable at arms distance in normal room illumination.ย  The English language has an idiom for that, "to the n***d eye".ย ย 

Unfortunately, the naughty word filter does not like "n***d", even when immediately followed by the word "eye".

Not the cleverest filter ever inventedย 

Bee

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Hi Too Tall

I've actually run afoul of the dreaded filter so often, that filter behavior has become transparent.ย ย 

It has a list of words and or phrases.ย  The filter performs a pattern match algorithm, character by character, between the list and the post.ย  Should there ever be a match for any word or phrase, it is flagged for moderation.ย ย 

So far, so good.

There are some obvious profanities and slurs which clearly should not be on a Hornby Forum.ย  I have no dispute with that type of restriction.ย  Reasonable and sensible.ย  ย 

The issue is that there are words which have differing meanings, context dependent.ย  The filter does not understand context.ย ย 

That creates work for unpaid moderators, who I am sure generally find the filter acting slightly silly (again).ย  Correspondents become confused, and I recall one lad who became upset that his post was held waiting for a moderator.ย  ย As if the moderators should hop to it.ย  Yeah, no.

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Back to modelingย 

You brushed the water tank?ย  Not sprayed?ย  I'm now quite a bit more impressed.ย 

When I brush, I often leave behind brush marks.ย  Imperfect color blotches where its too thin and excess paint pooling where it is too thick.ย  I am dreadfully inept at the task.ย  I've been considering going to an airbrush.

Color matching, even black, is tricky.ย  I assumed you painted the boiler as well.ย  Even if you claim luck, its still a match.ย ย 

Bee

Edited by What About The Bee
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4 hours ago, What About The Bee said:

Color matching, even black, is tricky.ย  I assumed you painted the boiler as well.ย  Even if you claim luck, its still a match.ย ย 

When I first started model painting, I read that there are around three hundred recognised shades of black. I too have experienced the same shade matching 'luck' - Vallejo black is spot on for BR black used by the manufacturers on the majority of their models.

Take a look at any steam loco and you will see that the smoke box is yet another shade where the paint is affected by the more extreme temperatures in that area. Railmatch weathered black is my go to for that.

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I've been mulling over the choice of number - sorry but it has to be changed.๐Ÿ™‚

It has to be in the correct range for the class - 47xxx.

Rule 1 does not apply.๐Ÿ˜‰

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8 minutes ago, Too Tall said:

I only got as far as noticing the first number was 4 and I aint doing it again, I can live with itย ๐Ÿ˜†

TT, go to your room and reflect on what you just said.๐Ÿ˜‰

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