robert-1311322 Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 HI everyone,first time posting here. hope someone can answer a real simple problem im having at the moment.Im still relatively new to model railways so chances are im doing something wrong lol! having dabbled in oo gauge last year then decided to start again from fresh in the new TT120 gauge.my problem is a have a basic oval loop, which i at the top left curve of the loop put a point to create a siding. on switching the the point for the train to go into the sidings the train stops dead at the point of the siding.Im using the hornby controller that come with the scotsman train set. and is powered by power connecting track that came with it.Why is the siding not getting power, should the siding be on the inside not outside of the loop or does that not matter? or do i need to power all sections of my track with power feed connections and bus wire to a different controller. thanks in advance to any responses to this query, im sure this wont be my last time here. thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 The track power should follow the point direction from the power connection point. If your power connection is after the point then when the point is set to siding it cuts off the power not redirects it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntpntpntp Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 (edited) So when the point is thrown to route into the siding there is power on the oval and the loco runs round ok and onto the point then stops? Where *exactly* does the loco stop - when the rear wheels are fully on the point blades, or after the rear wheels have gone past the frog? Can you post a photo of your layout, show us where the power feed is and also a photo of where the loco stops? It may be the point blade isn't making good contact with the running rail? Edited July 22 by ntpntpntp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert-1311322 Posted July 22 Author Share Posted July 22 first line of your reply is exactly what happens, will try and upload photo soon. cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LesXRN Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 If it's DCC and you have used an insulating fishplate on the V Frog of the point, then you would need to supply power to the siding. I say that as you mentioned a bus wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntpntpntp Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 (edited) 25 minutes ago, robert-1311322 said: first line of your reply is exactly what happens, will try and upload photo soon. cheers In the meantime try using something metallic eg. a pair of pliers to bridge a connection between the point blade and the stock rail when the loco has stopped on or after the point. You don't have to squeeze hard just make a connection and see if that gets the loco moving? If so then the problem is the point blade has some dirt or needs slight adjustment so it's got good contact with the stock rail. Les makes a good point about isolating joiners on the frog V, though that's usually related to using live frog points and applies to DC or DCC. Are you using Peco or Hornby points? Edited July 22 by ntpntpntp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
What About The Bee Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 @robert-1311322 Hi Robert and Welcome Aboard. One thing to consider, while the lads are troubleshooting your layout, is the acquisition of a volt meter. With a voltage meter, you can check for continuity and etc. Its a worth while investment. They can be very inexpensive. And mostly, they make troubleshooting and diagnosis a doodle. Just a thought Bee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert-1311322 Posted July 22 Author Share Posted July 22 thanks for everyone,s reply so quick, shock horror i tried another point and the train now goes into the mentioned siding! strange, i've included some pics for a previous member who replied. ps sorry about the barebones and openness of layout as i'm experimenting as i go, i think i need to now invest in the voltmeter!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
What About The Bee Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 Wise choice Robert! The very next thing to consider is a wiring diagram. As your layout grows and develops, it will be handy to not reverse-engineer everything you did before. Simply refer to the existing diagram and modify/update it. It may seem like a waste of time now, but trust me, it will become the grail. 🙂 Plus, you are very likely to spot your wiring issue, straight away. Bee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert-1311322 Posted July 22 Author Share Posted July 22 thanks for the advice bee, gotta hell of a lot to learn! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntpntpntp Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 (edited) Nice space you have there for your layout 🙂 Ok so the point was the problem as we thought. Glad you've solved that problem. The dodgy point can probably be sorted out, If it's a Hornby point they have little contact tabs underneath which might need adjusting One suggestion: your power feed might be better moved somewhere nearer the entrance to the siding. There's a "rule" that power should be fed into the "toe" of a formation of points, which means the point blades end. This is so that power can be routed to whichever track the point is set to. Electrically there's nothing wrong with where you have the power feed right now and it still follows the rule, but the power has to flow the "long way round" anticlockwise to get to the point blades and into the siding. The longer the distance (and the more track joints) the more resistance there is in the circuit and this can cause a drop in power. I'd move the power feed to the rear track, or even better I'd add a second feed there and wire the two power feeds together and into the controller 🙂 Oh and I agree with Bee - all railway modellers should own an electrical "multi-meter" which you will find indispensable for checking voltage is present in the track, checking for continuity in wiring and across rail joints etc. You can get one for £10 - £15 which will do the job perfectly well. Be sure to get one which has an audible "beep" for the continuity test function so you don't have to look back at the meter at the very moment you've got the test probes in just the right place! Edited July 22 by ntpntpntp 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert-1311322 Posted July 23 Author Share Posted July 23 again for your time and advice on this, gonna order that multi meter as soon as. cheers bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted July 23 Share Posted July 23 A few people have experienced continuity issues with the Hornby TT:120 points, if the fix isn’t obvious just call Customer Services for a replacement. There is good availability on track pieces for TT:120 and I think they have made a few tweaks in production too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert-1311322 Posted July 23 Author Share Posted July 23 can 19 hours ago, ntpntpntp said: Nice space you have there for your layout 🙂 Ok so the point was the problem as we thought. Glad you've solved that problem. The dodgy point can probably be sorted out, If it's a Hornby point they have little contact tabs underneath which might need adjusting One suggestion: your power feed might be better moved somewhere nearer the entrance to the siding. There's a "rule" that power should be fed into the "toe" of a formation of points, which means the point blades end. This is so that power can be routed to whichever track the point is set to. Electrically there's nothing wrong with where you have the power feed right now and it still follows the rule, but the power has to flow the "long way round" anticlockwise to get to the point blades and into the siding. The longer the distance (and the more track joints) the more resistance there is in the circuit and this can cause a drop in power. I'd move the power feed to the rear track, or even better I'd add a second feed there and wire the two power feeds together and into the controller 🙂 Oh and I agree with Bee - all railway modellers should own an electrical "multi-meter" which you will find indispensable for checking voltage is present in the track, checking for continuity in wiring and across rail joints etc. You can get one for £10 - £15 which will do the job perfectly well. Be sure to get one which has an audible "beep" for the continuity test function so you don't have to look back at the meter at the very moment you've got the test probes in just the right place! can i buy any multimeter, or do i need a specific one for model railways ? looking on AMAZON and am gobsmacked how many different ones are for sale. if anyone can recommend a certain one within a £20 budget id appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntpntpntp Posted July 23 Share Posted July 23 (edited) 7 minutes ago, robert-1311322 said: can can i buy any multimeter, or do i need a specific one for model railways ? looking on AMAZON and am gobsmacked how many different ones are for sale. if anyone can recommend a certain one within a £20 budget id appreciate it. You can spend more if you want on probably better quality but to be honest this £10 one does what you need: volts, amps, resistance and continuity buzzer. If you prefer the styling of one of the others then go for that one 🙂 https://www.amazon.co.uk/VENLAB-Multimeter-Resistance-Continuity-Transistor/dp/B0BJKHG6TQ/ref=sr_1_49_sspa [edit] This one's £1 cheaper 🙂 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multimeter-Backlight-Multifunction-Resistance-Continuity/dp/B0CZHSCDBK/ref=sr_1_88_sspa Edited July 23 by ntpntpntp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted July 23 Share Posted July 23 If you want to do motor stall current checks, get one that does 10A DC current. Some have a 200mA limit which is no use for that job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntpntpntp Posted July 23 Share Posted July 23 Whilst I'm sure they are out there, I don't think I've come across a general purpose multimeter which doesn't have something like a 10A setting, usually through an alternative probe connection as @96RAF has ringed in that photo above. Both the models I linked to in my earlier reply have a 10A capability. A multimeter should last you many years, I'm still using a Maplin auto-ranging meter I bought in the 1980s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted July 23 Share Posted July 23 I have 3 A very old Radio Shack one bought in the late 70s, a more modern Maplin one and a recent £10 Lidl one. They all give very different DCC voltage readings due to disparate sampling rate frequencies on AC volts. For accurate DCC voltage I have an RRAMP meter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted July 23 Share Posted July 23 I bought my first multimeter in I think 1965. Wouldn’t recommend it though, it died last year and I had to replace it, not to mention I had to replace the battery a number of times, and a fuse more than once. I bought it online too, or at least close to online. The shop was near Central Railway station in Sydney. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert-1311322 Posted July 23 Author Share Posted July 23 2 hours ago, ntpntpntp said: You can spend more if you want on probably better quality but to be honest this £10 one does what you need: volts, amps, resistance and continuity buzzer. If you prefer the styling of one of the others then go for that one 🙂 https://www.amazon.co.uk/VENLAB-Multimeter-Resistance-Continuity-Transistor/dp/B0BJKHG6TQ/ref=sr_1_49_sspa [edit] This one's £1 cheaper 🙂 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multimeter-Backlight-Multifunction-Resistance-Continuity/dp/B0CZHSCDBK/ref=sr_1_88_sspa Cheers again, to everyone for the help and advice, all this choice! decision time now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now