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Lidl's 1:72 De Havilland Tiger Moth


Valhalla

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A fair few hours and one side is rigged, so that's a first for me in this scale.  I found it easier applying the top wing after mounting the fuselage uprights to the fuselage rather than instruction's top wing.  This kit did have flash on sprue C (first one didn't) which made things awkward for the wing struts.

Andyimage.thumb.jpeg.c225bb46ebe9184edd861549352c4060.jpeg

 

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Looking nice Andy, I do prefer 1/48 for detail and less fiddly although tat rigging could be a different matter?
Might have to dig my 1/48 next and have a go now the 1/72 is finished 🙂

Ian

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The 1/48 is a nice kit to put together Ian, rigging it so far has been straight forward.  I notice Airfix have put different decals in the current release, prefer the older ones.

Now I'm just seeing how far I can push this starter kit.  Originally I said a braver man than me would attempt to rig this, little did I imagine that I would be that braver man!

Andy

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By way of contrast, the 1/48 was easy and building this at the same time as the second Lidl one helped both builds.  Still have to improve my rigging technique but at least I have something to build from as it was a long process.

Andy

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image.thumb.jpeg.184548cb55d762f7288bbce0f9fb961d.jpeg

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They both look very good. 
Did you happen to read my post on ‘hole in the wing’ rigging? I couldn’t find it in the search function, which I find particularly hard to use. 
This post has given me some inspiration to have a go at this 1/72 model - thank you. 

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The Matchbox Walrus I posted recently had double thickness wings. I thought drilling through both would make it difficult to thread the elastic thread through. So I just drilled indents in the surfaces. 
The photo below shows that by resting the tweezers on a suitable base, I could keep the end of the thread in a ‘pool’ of superglue without it moving so that a secure bond occurred. I found before that just holding the thread with conventional tweezers transferred body tremors to the thread such that the superglue bond failed. 
IMG_6356.thumb.jpeg.9263a953ad01f06ecf8382efa7126267.jpeg

This new approach worked for me on the wings and here with the aerial wire into the cabin. 
The key for me is that once I have found an appropriate stable position, I can leave the tweezers to hold the thread in place while the glue cures, so I can go and wash the dishes 😁
Hope this helps. 

Edited by Dominic Thomas
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51 minutes ago, Dominic Thomas said:

The Matchbox Walrus I posted recently had double thickness wings. I thought drilling through both would make it difficult to thread the elastic thread through. So I just drilled indents in the surfaces. 
The photo below shows that by resting the tweezers on a suitable base, I could keep the end of the thread in a ‘pool’ of superglue without it moving so that a secure bond occurred. I found before that just holding the thread with conventional tweezers transferred body tremors to the thread such that the superglue bond failed. 
IMG_6356.thumb.jpeg.9263a953ad01f06ecf8382efa7126267.jpeg

This new approach worked for me on the wings and here with the aerial wire into the cabin. 
The key for me is that once I have found an appropriate stable position, I can leave the tweezers to hold the thread in place while the glue cures, so I can go and wash the dishes 😁
Hope this helps. 

That's great info Dominic, Times I've had trouble attaching aerial wires ...  🙂

Never rigged a Biplane before so I'll definitely use this technique

Cheers

Ian

 

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Thanks Andy, that's really useful. I don't think I'll do the control wires either. My thread is black so I can get away with it on the rigging but the control wires will probably be too much

Cheers

Ian

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