Jump to content

Railroad Tornado derailment issue


joeavfc

Recommended Posts

My Railroad Tornado persistently derails on one of my corners and I have no idea why. The wheels seem to bump up however there is nothing on the track or on the inside of the rails.

 

I am new to the modelling world and would appreciate some help

Link to comment
Share on other sites

joeavfc said:

walkingthedog said:

It could be the curve is too tight. Do you know what radius the curves are, 1st, 2cnd, 3rd or 4th. Have a look at the number underneath the track.


it only happens on the one corner and

its a 2nd or 3rd radius, my flying scotsman doesnt do it, only tornado
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It could be that the distance between the backs of the wheels is to much or to too little. It should be about 14.5mm. Try and measure the distance, if incorrect the wheels can be moved on the axles by twisting them.

 

Is the bogie fouling anything

 

when it turns, maybe the cylinder or front steps if they are fitted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

 

I had a similar problem with a Hornby A4 - from the main range rather than Railroad, but the chassis design of all the LNER Pacifics is pretty much the same. I spent weeks relaying track (a real pain because it was permanently ballasted), but

 

no improvement. None of my other Hornby Pacifics (including Flying Scotsman, Tornado, and another A4) had any problem, before or after this. I then compared them all and noticed that the problem loco was derailing because of the front bogie. It is attached

 

to the chassis by a bolt that passes through a slot in a T shaped bracket that is screwed to the chassis. With the offending loco the bracket was screwed on to the chassis very tightly (allowing no vertical or sideways movement, but with the other locos it

 

was looser, presumably allowing the bogie to move up/down, sideways and pivot a bit more easily. Loosening the screw slightly so that the bogie was a bit more floppy solved the problem for me. Have a go - it only needs to be loosened to give a bit of movement.

 

 

 

Hopefully this may solve your problem. However, I know from the experiences of a few others on this forum that I'm not the only one to have had problems. And if anyone tells you "Derailments only ever happen because the track isn't laid properly" take

 

it with a pinch of salt - just as often the loco is at fault.

 

 

joeavfc said:

 

I run it in the opposite direction and its fine

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Doc said:

Hi,

I had a similar problem with a Hornby A4 - from the main range rather than Railroad, but the chassis design of all the LNER Pacifics is pretty much the same. I spent weeks relaying track (a real pain because it was

permanently ballasted), but no improvement. None of my other Hornby Pacifics (including Flying Scotsman, Tornado, and another A4) had any problem, before or after this. I then compared them all and noticed that the problem loco was derailing because of the

front bogie. It is attached to the chassis by a bolt that passes through a slot in a T shaped bracket that is screwed to the chassis. With the offending loco the bracket was screwed on to the chassis very tightly (allowing no vertical or sideways movement,

but with the other locos it was looser, presumably allowing the bogie to move up/down, sideways and pivot a bit more easily. Loosening the screw slightly so that the bogie was a bit more floppy solved the problem for me. Have a go - it only needs to be loosened

to give a bit of movement.

Hopefully this may solve your problem. However, I know from the experiences of a few others on this forum that I'm not the only one to have had problems. And if anyone tells you "Derailments only ever happen because the track

isn't laid properly" take it with a pinch of salt - just as often the loco is at fault.

seems that one of the main driving wheels bumps up, and only that one?


joeavfc said:

I run it in the opposite direction and its fine
Link to comment
Share on other sites

walkingthedog said:

A driving wheel jumping up is normally due to the curve being too tight or the join between to sections of track not being straight.


ive sorted it for the time being, removed some ballast frommunder the

track and it semsnto habe solved my problem for now, thanks anyway
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ive got a feeling it may have been uneven track, not sure why, the torndao would go round 20 times without coming off them suddenly derail on the same corner again... strange

 

any tips or recommendations? Im new to this, sorry

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A straight edge (Steel ruler at least 300mm long, but preferably longer) and a spirit level are useful tools when laying track. Also the Mark 1 eyeball. Most derailment issues can be traced to track defects. One fault that can sometimes be overlooked is

 

'twist' where one rail changes height in respect to the other. A few hints based on real practice.

 

Both rails should be level and parallel in both vertical and horizontal directions except on curves where the outer rail may be slightly higher than the

 

inner one (super-elevation). When entering a curve the outer rail should increase in height gradually as the train enters the curve and should never exceed 2mm above the inner one, and usually much less. Also when entering or leaving a gradient both rails

 

should rise or fall at the same rate.

 

Set track that is bent or damaged should be replaced, and flexible track should be curved smoothly with no kinks or 'dog-legs'. At joints between lengths between flexible track extra care must be taken to ensure

 

that the transition between one length and the next is smooth and supported by sleepers as close to the rail joiners as practicable.

 

A frequent problem with modern stock is the incorrect set up of wheel sets, and if they are too wide or too narrow they

 

do not negotiate points correctly. A back to back gauge is a useful tool (Markits sell them, others are available). Wheels are usually press fit on axles and can be adjusted but be careful that they are not twisted or over adjusted. The wheel is usually mounted

 

using a plastic or fibre insulator. The driving wheels of steam locomotives should not be tackled unless you are a very experience modeller. The quartering of the wheel must not be interfered with or the loco will not run properly. Wheels involved in accidents

 

can also become out of adjustment, a dropped model may look OK but it is wise to check the wheels before using it again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...

Recently bought the tornado and i am having the same problem as joeavfc,everything else flies found fine,but not tornado,no matter how slow i run the loco it jumps up and derails,running the other way it is fine,just spent hours in the garage trying to figure it out,very frustrating,loco still in one piece.............god knows why

Link to comment
Share on other sites

WTD put -

It's not unusual for a train to run round for 30 minutes and then a wagon will suddenly fall over. - - Usually after you have been practising for that 'this is my railway' video and got everything working perfectly - then you point a camera at it!!   Crunch!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
×
  • Create New...