DCC Monitor

[Chrissaf]

It would seem that the Elite is buffering the RM commands until that particular command is being countermanded by a new different command for the same loco, causing the Elite buffer to then be updated. When RM stopped sending the commands of the other locos that were not in the 'testing' group. The Elite didn't treat the missing commands as being something new and just kept sending the last known good command from the buffer.

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However, as long as one is aware of this behaviour, then the use of Groups is a workable solution to loco filtering.

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As an aside, whether the same buffering action would be seen with an eLink, I have no idea.

[St1ngr4y]

It's surprising how much I have learnt about DCC & RM in the few days I've had this monitor.

 

Ray

[96RAF]

Keep learning Ray, we need an expert in both fields.

Rob

[Chrissaf]

And when you consider you can build one for less than £10, it makes you wonder why making one from my 'How To' tutorial is not more popular. As far as I know, you are the only one so far to dip their toe in the water. Even if it was a year late 😉

[96RAF]

It seems to do a better job translating DCC in English than my USB scope Chris.

I may have to garner all the bits whilst in UK.

Rob

[Rog RJ]

I've ordered the parts for one.  It will be the first time I've used an arduino and I'm looking forward to building and using it.

[Chrissaf]

It was and still is my very first and only Arduino project. Mine worked first time I powered it up.

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I purposely didn't write up making the DCC interface board in the original 'How To' PDF. As there are only about 6 components to solder up and lots of different ways you could make the board. There are only three connections between the interface board and the Arduino. This information omission is rectified in the suggested construction arrangement below.

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The Arduino 'Shield' (green circuit board) I used to mount the interface components on, is not like Vero strip board. Basically you create your own tracks on the back of the board with short wire straps (insulated wires where necessary) to interconnect the components. Alternatively if you are more comfortable with standard copper strip board, then use that and just make the three wire connections that are required between it and the Arduino. Which are +5 volts plus 0 volt (Gnd) and DCC Input to Arduino (Pin 2). Note that the +5V is an output from the Arduino to power the DCC interface board, it is not a +5V supply input to the Arduino. The Arduino gets its power from the USB lead that attaches it to the PC.

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The advantage of using the proposed 'Shield' is that the three connections to the Arduino are more robust and therefore more reliable because the connections are made with the plated strip terminal pins included in my document parts list. Because the 'Shield' is designed as an Arduino UNO accessory, all the pin & mounting holes line up exactly. Three connection pins are soldered to the 'Shield' and then the 'Shield' is just plugged and clamped with insulating nylon screws to the Arduino to make the final connections.

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[96RAF]

Chris

Can I use this  smd version in lieu of the one you show and is there any advantage...

https://store.arduino.cc/arduino-uno-smd-rev3

Rob

[Chrissaf]

I would think that it is compatible as it only appears to use a chip with a different physical makeup. But the emphasis is on the word "think" in my sentence. The main thing to look out for is "UNO Revision 3" in the description. I believe the revision number is an important requirement. Your link says Revision 3 for the product.

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But the only reason I could see for using the one in your link is if you happen to have one already. It is many times more expensive than the one in my link in the 'How To' PDF.

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For example, your link shows the price as 19 euros plus tax = £16.52 + tax + delivery

My link shows a price of £4.60 inclusive of everything from Hong Kong.

[Tee1707818014]

Hi Chris, I'm also interested in making a monitor but am unable to open your PDF files on the bt cloud as I don't have an account number with them! Is there another way to view it, or maybe a link to the software required to run it? I am using an iPad2. Thanks

Tee

[96RAF]

I couldn’t get the document to open on an iPad either but it was fine on a PC. iPad normally downloads pdfs, etc and saves to Akrobat but of course has no right click ability to manually save a downloaded file.

 

Re - R3 board price. The place Iooked first (to get background on Arduino mainly) was the official Arduino site, which had all boards about the 20 quid mark. UK suppliers like Hobby Electronics, Farnell, etc had much the same price. If I go direct to China suppliers then the price drops remarkably, but the waiting time goes up and I only have a few weeks in UK.

 

The main difference that I could see twixt the large chip and smd versions was the lack of FTDI, which I suppose is the reason behind my question - does the sniffer use FTDI, as my ESU LokProgrammer is quite specific about needing a cable with FTDI to operate correctly.

 

Rob

[Chrissaf]

...on the BT cloud as I don't have an account number with them!

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You don't need an account number. My document has been posted by 'Public Link'. When the page opens, you should be able to just double click the PDF file name in the top left hand corner and it will download to your device as a PDF file. You should then be able to 'Open' the file using 'Acrobat Reader'. I don't have an iPad or any other Apple device (sacrilege I know, but I am a committed MS person), so I can't test the file on one.

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If double clicking doesn't work. Then put a tick in the check box next to the file and a 'download' button should appear on the top right hand side.

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Let me know if the above works, else I will try something else. Do you have MS Word for example. Do you know someone with a Win PC who can download and printout for you (the embedded URL links in it then won't become clickable and will need to be retyped, and some of them are very long).

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FTDI? what's that.

[96RAF]

Future Technology Devices International invented a protocol for multi-device usb bridging.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/FTDI

Examples of Arduino associated FTDI devices 

Rob

 

[Tee1707818014]

Thanks Rob, Chris, tried it on the PC this morning & all worked well, as stated the ipad doesnt have a double click on the touch screen that I know of, it would normally open a link by just taping on it.

I thought if I created an account with BT Cloud it would give me access to the PDF file, but the sign up wanted to link it with an account number which I didnt have as I'm with virgin media, so gave up trying on the ipad.

Now all I have to do is get my head around it. I've had a quick look at some of the links & if I couldn't even work out how to open the file I'm thinking the project may be a little beyond my abilities. Although I don't normally give up too easily, lol.

[Chrissaf]

As I said, my files on BT Cloud are posted in the forum by 'Public Link'. As they are my files in my own private storage area. Then even if you did have a BT Account and set up your own BT Cloud access, then you still would not be able to see my files. In the same way that I cannot see other BT Cloud account members files. They are held securely.

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One can only access the files I choose to share by 'Invitation' only. That is to say, I go into my BT Cloud account. Choose the file I want to share with others, and create a clickable link to it that I can then post in the forum. People other than me, can only see the file that I share, even though the folder that contains that file has many more of my own files stored there (about 15 at the last count).

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Once you start reading the document, I would expect you to find that, yes it looks a little daunting at first glance, but the structure of the document is very logical and should be relatively easy to follow as each and every step is documented with screen shots as necessary. The only thing not documented to the nth degree is the construction of the interface, which I have now included above in this thread.

[Tee1707818014]

Thanks Chris, I have now had the chance to look though your comprehensive guide & now have the confidence to give it a go.

Ive ordered the parts so waiting now for their arrival in about 3-4 weeks.

[Chrissaf]

tibrahim & Rog(RJ)

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Keep us updated as to progress.....don't forget that you can download the Arduino software plus Rudd Boer's DCC sketch(es) and install those on your PC before you get the parts. If there are going to be any headaches with this project it will be the software side that will give you one. The hardware side is easy peasy.

[Tee1707818014]

OK will do  😆

[96RAF]

Chris

Is this any good to save building an optocoupler...just wondering that the DCC voltage and freq may be outwith its input spec.

Rob

[Chrissaf]

Probably not without some form of modification. The 6N137 chip on it is OK, but the spec says input is DC which is rather strange given it also says operating frequency

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I can't say yay or nay without seeing the circuit schematic of how it is constructed.

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PS - Rob, I remember you saying earlier that you were trying to avoid buying from China due to your UK availability window of opportunity. Just be aware that the Amazon listing says sold and dispatched by 'dumuqiao' clicking on their name shows that they are based in ShenZhen China.

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[96RAF]

Thats the problem I am having with a lot of the kit I need Chris, not just this project, in that to get the best price it comes from china.  I’m likely to settle for a paying a bit more but with acceptable delivery forecasts. Presently looking at a comprehensive Uno R3 clone starter kit from UK via Amazon that has loads of targeted kit and components to help with the learning curve and extend the interest outside this DCC monitor job.

Rob

[Rog RJ]

Just received my Arduino and shield PCB.  Now waiting for the opto isolator.  I've got a few opto isolators in my electronic parts collection but no high speed ones - always the case isn't it.

[Rog RJ]

Opto isolators have now arrived and assembly will start soon.  Just downloading the software and gathering the remaining components together.

 

Has anyone found a nice sized box to mount the assembled kit into?

[96RAF]

Most places that flog Arduinos flog cases for them Rog.

 

e.g. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/arduino-cases/1442602/

 

...or you can get the file to 3-d print your own.

 

Edit - Maplins - bless them- used to have all this sort of stuff on hand.

 

Rob

[St1ngr4y]

Most places that flog Arduinos flog cases for them Rog.

 

e.g. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/arduino-cases/1442602/

 

...or you can get the file to 3-d print your own.

 

Edit - Maplins - bless them- used to have all this sort of stuff on hand.

 

Rob

 

Thanks for that, Rob. I've just ordered one.

 

Ray