Twintop

I am slowly but surely getting through cleaning and oiling my locos plus any minor repairs needed. I have always had an intermittent screech on my Railroad - Argos version - Flying Scotsman and finally decided to have a better look. I eventually worked out how to remove the body - very simple when you know how - 1 screw and a lug under the cab. I did howver undo about 4 other screws at the rear before I twigged it was the lug that was holding the rear in. One of the screws held in the rear motor housing - so not a wise move to just undo random screws as I did ! Well, FS is transformed - now running super smooth after oiling the motor bearings and gears - wish I had tried years ago. I also tackled a Hornby J94 and that was very easy to get the body off too, plus have done a Lima 47, BMann class 25 and Jinty recently. Ther Hornby Fowler 2P is back on the bench though, a traction tyre has come adrift and there are none to be had at Hornby - I registered for a reminder when they come in, but that was close on a year ago ! On the layout I have recommissioned all my tracks now - I tend to run trains on the main ovals and let the branch lines go "unloved" and also the loco yard and all is working now apart from the Peco turntable which needs a furher look to get power to the tracks.

I am fed up with the seemingly constant rain, but at least it means lots of play time on the railway. I have been re-commissioning the layout, cleaning track and testing the track sections, with a few joints needing soldering. Still a fair bit to do, but passenger and freight services are restored to the low level branch line at last. The high level branch is next on the list. The new CDU is working well and I now realise the old one must have been off colour for a good while as points rarely fail to throw now as they did before. I have also been cleaning and servicing more locos. I did a Hornby J94 yesterday and it was so simple to disassemble and remove the body and then two screws to take off a weight to get to the motor. In contrast, the Bmann class 08 was quite awkward, but I managed in the end. Next is a Hornby LNER livery Flying Scotsman - from Argos and I think an upgraded railroad version - and a Bmann class 24.

I am reducing my spending on trains now that I am retired, but have just bought the following: 4 Oxford carflats, a Block Signalling CDU and a ground lever frames plastic kit. I do have an issue with the carflats as my layout only accomodates 6 bogie caches plus loco in the loops, so I doubt if 2 BR MK 1's and 4 carflats would look right really, but we shall see and may try 3 Mk1s plus 5 carflats and restrict where the train runs.

I have an R751 in green livery - D6830 - bought for me circa 1966, so may well be a Triang one. The only pick-ups are on the 4 driven wheels on one bogie, so it is hesitant over pointwork. A class 31 I have from a few years later (same motor bogie) has additional pick-ups one two wheels of the unpowered bogie so is better over pointwork. My Peco model D controller from about 27-28 years ago has enough power to cope.

It was the CDU at fault, not enough oomph to throw a pair of points. A new CDU for £8.50 from a local retailer has the points throwing correctly again. Can't complain at circa 30 years service from the old CDU. The manufacturers website also lists an item that will allow LEDs to record the route set, so I am thinking about trying one of those for the control panel, as I have always wished I could have that facility. I have also been modifying a PECO point as an experiment. I often have trouble with the small metal pieces that are under the point blades that then engage under the rail to make contact. These often seem to fail, not surprisingly really as the point motors fairly thump the blades across. I had a point out to see why trains were de-railing and it turned out to be fluff not letting the blades throw fully. I took the opportunity to solder wires from the rails to the fixed part of the point blades as there are convenient gaps in the plastic sleeper base underneath. Both tracks are of course now live, but no problem with my cab control layout, and I am certain I will have cured the issue.

I have managed to dismantle the Bmann class 46 and can now see that a plastic bearing/housing that a driveshaft locates into is cracked and so is unlikely to be gripping the shaft as tightly as it should. I "opened up" the crack and have run glue into the crack and am leaving it overnight to set. I have written to Bachmann to see if the part is available. I did not remove the chassis block. Two screws holding the circuit board can be removed and the circuit board can then be moved to one side and you can then see to get to the driveshaft. You can also drop the bogie down for more access by removing a screw on the top. One Ivatt 2-6-2T is now running very well, but the other is still wobbly despite new axle bearings, so I suspect the valve gear is distorted. Today I have cleaned and oiled two Bacmann class 20s and found the body retaining screws on one that I had "lost" - they were stuck by magnetism to the side of the motor ! Also replaced a coupling on one. Hornby Clan McLeod 72008 has also been cleaned and oiled and a tender buffer glued back on. On the layout, I have been troube shooting the wiring as I moved the control panel about 2 inches so I could raise it to over vertical for access to the myriad of wired to the switches. Some of the wires were this too short and became detached and I have been a good while fastening them back on. Also having issues with the point motors. The CDU won't throw a pair of points simultaneously anymore, and whilt it could be linked with my wiring issues, I think it is the CDU - it is after all maybe 30 years old - as when isolating the wiring and just running wires to the pair of point motors, they still only throw together one way. So, lots of fun lately on the trains. I really enjoy it, but it equally can be frustrating at times.

I have managed to sort out one of my split chassis Ivatt 2MT 2-6-2Ts by replacing the outer plastic axles/bearings . I obtained two sets a few years ago from Bachmann. I had to glue the stub axles on the wheels though and used a tiny amout of araldaite, as the wheels were just popping out without the glue. The loco now runs very well again. It is the old version with pick-ups to the front pony truck - and I recal was a revelation at the time as the eight pick-ups and the heavy chassis mde for excellent running. However, my other Ivatt 2-6-2 tank is still wobbling even after replacing the bearings and I suspect it is the valve gear that might be distorted, so have e-mailed Bachmann to see if valve gear sets are available.

I have been continuing to repair my locos and rolling stock, but with mixed success. Rolling stock has just been a case of cleaning the wheels and oiling the axles, plus renewing couplings. Locos: Bman Ivatt 2-6-2 Tanks - split chassis. I fitted the new plastic bearings and resoldered wires to the front pony truck. However, both still ran poorly. The reason seems to be that even with the new bearings, the stub axles are loose, the wheel moves sideways and then the coupling rod fouls the valve gear. So, I could see no option but to glue the wheels into the bearings, and am waiting to test run to see if that works on one. On the other engine, I tried tweaking the valve gear and off popped a tiny retaining plate in an awkward place and so that is a very delicate job to tackle another day ! Luckily i found the piece on the layout. Not much luck with a Triang 3F 0-6-0 either. I changed this years ago to Romford wheels and added pick ups to 4 of the tender wheels. I can get it to run on the bench but then it stops and shorts out. I must have spent 2 hours today, checking and testing it, but it repeatedly worked fine, then started to short again. Will have to have a fresh look another day. No doubt it will be something simple that is straing right at me. Better news with my Triang Brush Type 2 D5572 in green - 1965 vintage. Cleaned that up and added new metal wheels to the non-powered bogie. It runs quite well even on Peco track with just a slight hesitation over points. I also acquired a later Hornby D5572 also in green, with the pickups on 2 wheels on the unpowered bogie, 2 years ago as a non runner. That was easy to fix, the nut on top of the power bogie was the wrong way round. A good clean and oil including removeing a 6 inch length of cotton from around a worm gear and that runs even better through the points. Not quite as good is my Triang EE type 3 in green. Same power bogie, but that does not run as well even after a good clean and oil. I might try a new armature in that one, I bought some spares maybe 20 years ago, but I suspect it needs extra pick-ups on metal wheels on the non powered bogie. The Bman class 46 D193 is still slipping to a halt, and I have not been brave enough to unsolder wires to get the chassis block off so I can se where the problem is. It will have to be done as I have nothing to lose. I am only end up with a non-runner and that is what I have at the moment. All good fun, but frustrating at times ! So - whilst I have enjoyed my renovations, success has been mixed

Thanks for the responses on my Bachmann class 46 and Ivatt 2-6-2 Ts running problems. I ended up with 2 Ivatts as when they first came out they had pickups on the front pony truck and were heavy, so current collection was excellent - far better than most steam locos of the same era. However, the plastic bearings encasing the split axles are a weak point, leading to "wobbling" running. Similarly, I have a Bachmann std 4 4-6-0 and the plastic spoked wheels are distorted. On my chinese version, I got replacement wheelests off Bachmann and that runs fine now, but the earlier "75078" in black was made in Hong Kong apparently and no wheelsets were available for that version. We have been decorating during the bad weather - wet most days for over 2 weeks now, so no progress on any more repairs for now, but hope to get back to it soon. The class 46 is a problem as I just can't see where the problem is exactly. Something is slipping and I know it is between a flywheel and a gear tower, but the heavy chassis block stops me seeing what is happening and to remove it would mean de-soldering several joints, which are on to a circuit board and so a risk in itself with my lack of soldering skills ! I am stil puzzled as to why it can do 28 circuits without a problem then suddenly slip to a halt, then when reversed it re-engages and sorts itself out for a while. The Class 44 works fine, so have just cleaned and oiled that. Regarding the coupling hooks, I have lots to put on as the modern ones are so flimsy they just keep falling off and it is a mystery how they ever stay on in the first place as they are weakly clipped on. The old Triang ones looked ungainly, but worked and were also better with uncoupling ramps !!

I have just been running all my engines after about a 4 month gap so have found a few issues. First was a LIMA Class 121 railcar. I found the gears to be very dirty and with some ballast in amongst. However, to cut a long story short, I had to remove a gear to make it just drive via one axle and it works perfectly well. A tiny gear was wobbling on its "axle" and jamming, so in effect I just switched it out. Then, a LIMA class 117 3 car unit. That also needed a good clean and a wire re-soldering to a brush. Next problem is a Bachmann Class 46 D193 which runs then slips to a halt. When reversed a short distance the drive re-connects and you can then go forward again. A good clean and lubrication seemed to have solved the problem as it completed 28 circuits of around 30 feet a circuit, but then failed again. The problem mainly occurs on a curve. I can fathom out where the slippage is occurring - between a flywheel and the gear tower, but can't get to it to inspect it more closely. It seems like unsoldering several wires may be the only way to get to the offending area. There seems to be a plastic collar by the flywheel that may have a split in it - could that be the cause ? Or maybe that is how it should be. Has anyone had similar problems - is it worth me disconnecting the wires to get the heavy chassis block off for a close inspection ? Next on the list are two "wobbly" running Bachmann Ivatt 2-6-2Ts that I think will need the white plastic axle bearings replacing. Super engines, with current collection off the front pony truck unlike later models. I assume my issues are that these locas are 20- 25 years old. Finally, lots of coupling hook to replace, most makes just seem to fall off on a whim.

I had trouble with mine in that the tender wheels seized up for some reason. I tried to sort it out, but ended up breaking some of the plastic and whilst it will now run as the wheels are freed off, it is not really right and derails occasionally. To make matters worse I paid out £3.99 for a replacement chassis and it is not that which is the issue, it is the old tender drive motor housing. I sort of assumed that was the part I would have needed, silly error really. I did write about this some time ago and there was a thread on it.

A Peco servicing cradle with the scraper and brushes to clean the wheels. I have been looking at a few locos lately and felt I was risking damage as I worked on them propped up upside down. It does help. Also two Ratio Pratt Truss gantry kits as I am signalling a layount extension that has been dome for a few years now, but as usual with me I rarely finish anything off as soon as I should. Xmas brought me two Oxford carflats and two Dapol grain hoppers, plus a few Oxford cars.

A Bachmann Class 03 split chassis D2012 in green livery. The engine has been dead for some time so last week I finally got around to taking it apart. I messed about for a good while testing and cleaning the loco, but whilst the motor would run, it was intermittent. I finally twigged that there was a loose wire on the armature and so deduced that was terminal as I could not see where to attach it and even if I had known it looked pretty inaccessible. So - I e-mailed the service department and the end result is a new motor for £19 inc P + P and so it is like having a new engine again. I took the opportunity to clean and lubricate the loco and so it is now quite happliy trundling around hauling two open wagons and a brake van. I also had to renew the motor on my Bachmann class 04 a few years back, so maybe the motors are a weak point. I also have a Hornby 2P awaiting traction tyres, but they are out of stock at Hornby. Lastly, I am on with repairing/constructing/painting Ratio LMS round post signals/Pratt truss gantries as a few are needed on the layout as I extended the main station a few years ago and never got around to signalling the additional tracks. They are fiddly to make and paint though, so it does take a good while. I am on with renovating my layout as it has got a bit tired/needs finishing in places, so I am selecting zones and doing everything that needs to be done to get it up to scratch in the zone before moving on.

@Twintop, "If the Mk 1s you describe were from the my model railway magazine the truss rods that run up the middle of the chassis will be a solid Trapezum rater than a series of bars. Looks like these are the ones - look very good to me for £4.95 each. "

Thanks - it was mostly embarassing and shocked a little girl who exclaimed "are you alright" and picked up some of the bits for me !! Which was good as I had not noticed some as they flew in all directions. Thought I was good on my feet, but both feet flew forwards and I sat down with a right bang, but just a sore backside for a couple of days. I was also annoyed as I had noticed it being a bit slippery on the way to the shop the first time - yet still fell !

A couple of maroon MK1s that look fine but I have no idea what make they are. Bought from a local toy shop for £4.95 each so worth a gamble. BUT - a few hours later as I was making my way to a model shop to see what they were, I slipped and the coaches went up in the air and crashed to the ground. Bogies fell off, BUT they were undamaged - the bogies clipped back in !! No idea how as whilst one landed in a flower tub, the other ended up on the pavement. It was Thursday when black ice was a menace up here. The shop though they may have been from a magazine that gave away a free MK 1 with the first edition. I also got for Xmas the following from the model shop Dapol BR grain hopper Hornby - Peterborough tar tank, pack of 3 BR ventilated vans (£25), 9 plank grey loco coal. (£5.95) Oxford - Layland Tiger cub Ribble. a caravan and a MK2 Jag.

I have been continuing to progressing the installaton of a 2 metre long carriage or DMU stabling siding. The second metre of track is now pinned down. wired up for cab control including section switches on the control panel and tested. Looks good with Lima class 117 and Hornby class 101 3 car units stabled there. Painting the rail sides and ballasting are now needed. I also re-wired 3 point motors for the high level branch goods yard - needed as my drill with a wood bit on slipped and caught wires and wound them around the drill..... Anyway, its all sorted again so not an issue. Next job though is to parcel up the Gaugemaster D controller and send off to be repaired. One of the track outputs has a fault, the current is full on all the time. It is about 25 years old though, so no complaints.

The next acquisition will likely be an Analogue controller. Not sure whether it was something I did or not, but my Guagemaster D controller started to fault and cut out/reset and eventually the power just stays on at full on track 2 output - i.e the control knob has no effect. I guess I had a short and it overcame the protection of the reset eventually as I dallied trying to find the fault. Maybe though it just gave up the gpost after 20 plus years. I have disconnected the output and it still is the same, so must be an issue inside the controller, nothing to do with the wiring to the track now at least, but may have been. At the moment track one is OK and the 16V AC outlet for the points are fine, so no need to do anything in a rush. Cant complain - its well over 20 years old and only failed once before which was repaired under the lifetime guarantee - I seem to recall though that the controller tumbled about a foot to the floor and that caused its issues. May have to see if that guarantee is still operated, but if not 20 years of use is great so will purchase another. DCC instead - ?? I dont think so. I can't face chipping 50 plus locos, and I do like my section switches to control the power to the track. I may go fpr a 4 track one though as I do have two branch lines that could do with a separate control whilst I run 2 trains around the main lines. All the section switches only have 2 options though so will need some judicious planning as to how its wired in. Progress on the siding continues, but as always I am hampered by my poor trait of being untidy, so the maze of wiring I have created under the control panel does not help - last night I must have wasted 40 minures tracking down a fault in the point motor circuit. However, one good result was that I finally found the reason for a reluctant double slip point motor - the soldered connection on the switch was poor it turns out so I re-did that and it now works fine. Those intermittent faults are always the worst to trace. However, in essence it is all good fun and part of the game of railway modelling. At least some more progress on the siding - the panel switches are in and its all connected and tested and the two points throw together powered of fthe 20 plus yr old gaugemaster CDU. The first metre of the siding is pinned down and wired up and a 3 cfar Lima 117 DMU is stabled there now. Next task is to lay the 2nd metre of track tp stable a second DMU and wire that up to a section switch. Thren the usual painting the track sides and ballasting. After that, still pondering modifactions to the layout at the end of the down lines. It would be useful to have the down relief platform 7 with the option of exiting to the down main and also adding a meter or so length of track to "4 track" that area by adding a track between the Up loop and the station throat so the loop becomes an Up relief line. That will need another two points as well and quite a lot of remodelling as an overbrige and embankment that takes the high level branch line headshunt will have to be demolished and reworked. All good fun !

Into town today and bought 3 on-off-on switches to control the 2 sections in the siding and a spare, a couple of buffer stops, some rail joiners and another length of flexi track. The on-off-on are used so I can work the siding off either controller. I am already planning further amendments to Platform 7 ( down relief ) road, an exit to the down main as well for more flexibility in operation. Will have to see. If I do that then I may also add a section of track and a couple of points to add a fourth track in the station throat. Eventually I would like it to be 4 track all the way around the cicuit but the next piece after that would be under the high level good yard and would be a lot of work to get to it, but it could be done. No progress on the layout though as I have just spent 2 hours removing wooden cladding from pipes and the kitchen framework next to the range cooker. Why - a water leak from a joint which is outside the cooker and whilst working I noticed a second leak higher up - hence more stuff to remove to hopefiully give the plumber more access. There is always something isn't there - but time is a great healer and no doubt it will all be sorted soon and the kitchen put back together - but in the interim its a pain !!

More progress on the siding this evening. I went up to the loft to see what parts I needed to buy tomorrow, and luckily its only a buffer stop and 2 section switches. Anyway I have now rewired the down relief - so the layout is operational again fully amd started on the siding - a short straight leading to a trailing Y point, the short "headshunt" forming a sort of catch point and the first metre length of siding proper. Its in position, but not pinned down. So hopefully into town tomorrow to get the few bits mentioned and then I can make more progress. Still a few hours to go to finish it all off, but its looking good so far.

Two metres of Peco code 100 rail ad two PL10 point motors for my siding addition. I had the points already, so one is now installed - in plac of a section of plain track - and just needs the wires from the motor adding to the control panel. At the moment the down relief line is out of action whilst the engineering work is undertaken, but the down relief platform - 7 - is still accessible from the Down Main. Just need to solder on a feed and earth connection to the track though and the down relief will be operational again. Main issue was "demolishing" a retaining wall - using a 25mm wood bit to eat away at the 3" x 2" timber to get some clearance. I managed to lose control of the drill and sever several wires to other point motors - so not happy at that but they can be easily changed. Next task is to lay a short piece of straight track then a Y point that will form a catch point in effect with a short length of rail coming back - not sure what the correct terminology is for this short dead end. I will then have to lay about 5' of straight track for the siding, wire up the feeds ( analogie cab control ) to split the siding into two sections to stable 2 x 3 car DMUS. It wil also be used to stable up to 6 coaches I may need a couple of buffer stops,. switches for the track sections and one for the point motors - both will be thrown in tandem. Maybe also some rail joiners. Finally the retaining wall wil need "rebuilding" - i.e. a new piece of stone efferc card - ballasting and signalling - a shunt signal arm will need to be added to the down relief home signal. So - a good few hours worth of work, but should be worth it. Maybe later, the carriage siding may be extended to be a freight avoiding line instead !

Repairs to locos as follows Hornby 8F - this has the annoying problem of just stopping working. Off comes the body, I twiddle the wires on the top of the motor and then it works fine - but no idea what or where the issue is, It has happened twice now. Also replaced the broken rear coupling - with the one in a plastic bag in the box meant for the front. Araldite to the rescue on a Bachmann Royal Scot - a horizontal piece of plastic supporting valve gear had broken off - seems OK after the "repair" And again for the Hornby class 110 DMU - the metal gear wheel was spinning and so removed it, cleaned the shaft and gears with meths, and araldited it on - seems OK - had it running for at least 20 minutes. Not run this for about a year. As I have many locos no urgency to mend them until I get several out of service.

Just had a few days in Dereham and so had a ride on the Mid Norfolk railway inc the cream tea behind a GWR Pannier.. Treated myself to a Dapol BR Fruit MEX and Oxford Rover P4 and LWB Land Rover in BR Maroon and Cream. York Civil Engineer

An Oxford British Railways Maroon and Cream Austin van from the Llandudno Transport Festival on the 29th April. £5.00 so seemed a good price.

A boxed EFE Ribble Leyland PD2 from a stall at the Kirkby Stephen bus fair - £8.00. Decent day out riding around on old buses between there and Brough and looking around the old East station.