Twintop

I had this issue over 50 years ago when I bought a Superquick double track engine shed, that I could only get one Super 4 track into it. I thought it was Superquick making it incorrectly, but realised years later it was Tri-ang with their overscale track spacing - to allow for coaches to pass on double track curves of 1st and 2nd radius. PECO centres are to scale but recently when I relaid a flexible track double curve, I did put a wider notch in my spacing tool and made the centres about 1/4 inch wider to stop some coaches slightly clipping each other when passing. This was even on a minimum of 24 inch radius curves.

Re the Bachmann diesels, I have two 25s and a 24 and all run very well. They are heavy, 8 wheel pick up and 8 wheel drive, plus must have a flywheel as they run on after the power is shot off, so that must prevent stalling over point work. Class 20s are the same. However, I have had issues with the 25s - and my class 44 and 46 peaks in that a plastic collar on the driveshafts splits and so the driveshafts spin. All mine could be 20 years old, so some faults are expected, but clearly a weak point. I managed to fix them with some araldite, but it is a very fiddly job to do, but more than worthwhile to get the superb machines running again. I am fortunate as I have no idea how many rivets or detail there and no interest in finding out either so am happily oblivious to any omissions or errors in the detail !!!

Yes, both split chassis. I have two of the Ivatts 2-6-2 T and both are wobbly runners. The later 2-6-0 tender version runs fine. I have replaced the plastic axle bearings, but to of no avail and the valve gear fell apart which did not help. I think I put the wheels back without quartering so that is what I will look at next. Replacement valvegear off E-bay was a con as was poorly made and fell apart straight away, but I did manage to mend the original using the new parts. Very fiddly to do though as needed a tiny amount of araldite to secure a part whilst leaving some movement in it. The valve gear originally fell apart as the worn axle bearings meant the wheels popped out and jammed the valve gear. When the Ivatts came out they were superb runners as they were heavy and had pick-ups on the front pony wheels, so current collection was a lot better than Hornby products of that time. I am sure they are at least 25 years old, so they have done well. One issue though is that the front pony sits low and won't clear uncoupling ramps. I did about 30 circuits with a trip freight of Bachmann 03/08, the two hoppers and a brake van. The circuit has a Peco large radius crossover, double slip, short radius crossover, a diamond crossing and three medium radius points and no issues, so I will carry on and do the other 5 hoppers I have. The loads look good as well.

Dapol 21T hoppers. I bought a few of the unpainted ones probably over 20 years ago and painted them grey. Recently I bought some Railmatch bauxite to paint Tri-ang cattle wagons, so have changed four of the hoppers to Bauxite. Easy to do as the body comes off easily although the lugs did break on some unfortunately. I recently got some Liquid Gravity so have started on filling the bottom of the hoppers and covering with a thin rectangular card as I always found the hoppers prone to de-railing and suspected they were too light. I have also made loads for two of them using real coal slack as we have coal fires, well at least until coal is banned. Simple of course with a stepped pyramid of card pieces and PVA glue to hold the slack in place. I am hoping the liquid gravity does the trick as I don't want the expenses of changing the wheels. I also have later Hornby hoppers that seem to run much better and could do with the same decals they have for my Dapol ones, but unsure where/if I can get these. Otherwise, the wobbly running with dodgy valve gear Bachmann Ivatt 2-6-2 T and the early Hong Kong made std 4 4-6-0 are still on the bench as I have got to the stage where I dont think I will ever be able to get them sorted as I keep trying without success. I must have a determined effort to try once more.

For smooth running it has to be the larger points. I have a large radius crossover on from the UP Main to the UP relief and the trains run very well at speed through it. The trains also look a lot better. Small radius are not nearly as good. I have a small radius crossover in the station area, but that is OK for me as it is on the exit of the platforms so trains do not be go quickly over them. Medium ones work OK, so I would say large or medium on the main line and small in the station areas if space is tight.

I too have been looking at that site, as I have decided that I am unlikely to buy any more new engines as I have over 50 and at age 65 won't get a lot of use out of any new ones. Plus, they are so expensive now. So, I have been looking at used ones on that site every day as I thought if I could get cheap locos for £20-£30 I might get a couple to play around with and maybe mend or at least use as spares. However, I was also staggered to find non-runners or ones with bits broken off for ridiculous prices, so I won't be buying any of those either ! The only comfort is that they seem to be describing the faults.

My first three coaches in 1966 were 3 blue/grey CKD kits - a Restaurant, Brake Second and the Composite. Later I bought other blue/greys that were noticeably heavier as they had a weight in. My question is, did I as a 9-10 year old not realise to put a supplied weight in, or were they supplied without weights as standard. I bought CKD ones to save pocket money. I later ended up with another 4 blue/greys, 2 Brake seconds, a composite and a full brake, plus a utility van and I still run them all today - with weights added and most have new Hornby metal wheels. Battlespace was mentioned earlier. I stil have the chassis of a 4 rocket launcher and that has the wheels mentioned above. That would have ben bought late 60s. Pity I took off the rocket turret and it has gone missing, and I put card onto the chassis to make a wagon out of it.

I also have that breakdown crane. Where does the olive green livery for engineers vehicles fit into this ? I have Lima Mk1 mess coach and a bogie compressor vehicle in olive green. Are they incorrect liveries ?

I had a Hornby one, but it was so slow and unrealistic, I swapped it for a PECO one. However, whilst the PECO one looks good, I cannot get the tracks to line up as it is out or reach, so I never use it. The Hornby one does stop correctly at each outlet. Is there a way of knowing where to accurately stop the PECO turntable ? The Hornby one is not realistic in looks and also because it stops at each outlet, has a stop start action and slowly moves around the outlets. So, neither of these turntables were really right for me.

Thanks, I did clamp and leave overnight, but will try again and leave for 48 hours. It is an odd arrangement where there is a thin metal spoked wheel and a plastic inset of spokes and the balance weight. The plastic is swollen and so whilst when separated it lays flat normally, when inset into the metal wheel it then bulges as it is too large to fit. If the 2nd glueing does not work, then I will shave/file away around the plastic circumference. Someone once suggested cutting the plastic spokes and I would think a saw/knife cut through several of the spokes would likely be enough of a reduction to alleviate the pressure. As they are an inset so purely cosmetic, apart from the fact that when swollen interfere with the coupling rods, then I suspect that might work. I have nothing to lose, as the std 4 is at least 25 years old and does not run properly at the moment and I have had my monies worth out of it many times over.

The Hornby wheelsets have arrived and so I fitted them to 5 Tri-ang MK1s and 5 Tri-ang good wagons. The cost is dreadful, but they are a big improvement on the plastic Tri-ang original wheels. I still like my Tri-ang mk1s. The goods wagons are 2 x drop side open wagons, a green open wagon, a 3 container conflat and a normal conflat. All are repainted in grey apart from the green open wagon, which I might do in bauxite. I have always wondered why Tri-ang used these colours ? The drop side ones were a sort of purple of course. Otherwise, the araldite repair on the Bmann std 4 has not worked, despite being clamped overnight. I will give it another go and if it does not stick this time, will have to try shaving off some of the circumference and then re-glueing. I only tried it on 2 wheels. I have also finished doing the servicing on all my coaches now. On Bmann ones I could not get the wheelsets out though - I was concerned the bogie frame would break. Hornby, Dapol, Lima and Tri-ang ones pop out with just a gentle spreading of the bogie frame.

I have also likely bought my last new locomotive as I can't justify spending going on for £200 for an engine, although there are several that I would like. I have over 50 anyway and they will do fine as being well into my sixties they will last me I would think ! Having said that, a box shifter has recently e-mailed with details of a Hornby K1 for £74 and so I am a little tempted by that. I have also noticed that used locos on a box shifters website seem expensive, so that route is unlikely too. Coaches are a price too now and so as I have about 90 already, I don't really need any more, but might buy an odd one such as a Hornby Mk1 RFB or the new MK 1 BCK that seem reasonably priced. Quite happy running my Tri-ang Mk1s around and may get a restaurant car in maroon as I don't have one of them and maybe some more sleepers as I only have one of those. However, even those are pricey at £24 for boxed examples. I am on with equipping some of my Tri-ang Mk1s with new Hornby wheels, but the wheels themselves have also shot up - I am sure they were £16.25 for a pack of 10 wheelsets just the other week, and they are now £19.65.

I have put the valve gear back on the Ivatt 2-6-2 tank, and test run, but it wobbles far too much, so I will have a look at the plastic axle bearings. I have some spares bought a while ago. The Bachmann class 24 in green has been dismantled and the slipping drive shaft coupling has been araldited back on. All back together and test run pulling three Dapol Stanier suburban coaches for 5 circuits and so far, so good. A class 25 and a Class 46 have also suffered this problem. I have been going through the mark 1 maroon coaches, Tri-ang, Lima, Hornby and Bachman, oiling the axles, cleaning the wheels and cleaning the bodies and roofs in particular. Couplings and buffers replaced where necessary. I have ordered 20 Hornby disc wheels to replace original Tri-ang plastic wheel sets on some Tri-ang MK 1 coaches. However, the price has gone up - now £19.65 for a pack of 10 - was £16 odd the other week. I also ordered a pack of spoked wheels for Tri-ang wagons so a lot of money - close on £60 just on wheel sets. I have also been looking at the Bachmann Hong Kong standard 4 4-6-0 - 75078 in black livery. It must be 25 years old, but developed the swollen wheels leading to very wobbly running so has been abandoned for maybe 5 years. I read on another forum that they could be fixed by trimming the plastic wheels, so had a look. I never realised, but the swollen plastic is not actually the wheel, it is a plastic insert of spokes and balancing weights and distorts. Behind it is a spoked metal wheel. so I have removed this inset on the rear drivers and araldited it back in flat, leaving it clamped to give the glue the best chance. I will do the other wheels if this works. Centre drivers appear to be as problem according to a forum, but I can prise the plastic inset up and am certain I can get glue underneath the inset without removing the wheels and con rods. I hope it works as for years it was the mainstay of the loco fleet, and I would like it back running. I had the same issue with another std 4, but that was a later Chinese model, so Bachmann supplied replacement wheelsets.

Yet another Bachmann diesel with the "slipping clutch" symptom. This time it is a green class 24 D5011 to add to the Green class 46 D193 and blue class 25 D7667 that had similar problems. Easy to fix, not so easy to get to the component to fix it. The engines will be around 15-20 years old though so cannot complain. The Ivatt 2-6-2 tank is still not mended just because I have not got around to it. I have replaced a coupling on the Hornby Clan McLeod that I caught and it snapped. The Lima class 121 I have probably given up on as it has a damaged gear train. Otherwise I need to order some wheels for the Tri-ang SR Utility van as it bounces through the Peco points, plus some wheels for about 5 Tri-ang wagons with the same problem. On the layout I have just finished methodically running all my locos as I try to do every 6 months or so, to be certain all get a run. Star performer was the Hornby pug 51218 which runs so well despite being an 0-4-0.

They may also be new rails - despite being rusty - awaiting fitting. I saw this a lot when travelling to Leeds on the Airedale line when they were renewing track There are also times when check rails are used to assist if a rain derailed such as on bridges or around tight curves where the extra rail(s) would stop the wheels from sliding sideways and in effect contain/limit a derailment.

I have a class green 40, two tone green 47 and a blue 50 and all run fine. I used to have a problem in winter with the 50 as the motor bogie would not swivel when the loft was very cold, but that seems to be OK now. I really like the 40 as it growls away and sounds a bit like diesel. Granted not as detailed as modern offerings but never given me any problems as such. Also a class 117 DMU which also runs fine, with just the odd repair needed over the years. I must have had these for 25 years or so. No doubt the Lima 117 cost me a fraction of a current Bachmann one. Again, a lot less detail, but looks fine to me. On the other hand, a class 121 is not working as I think some ballast maybe got into the gears and caused issue and so I had to remove one so that drive is only to one pair of wheels and it does not run well at all. I am sure I could sort it out if I put my mind to it. I have never changed any brushes even. A Lima Crab - just for the scrap line in the loco shed. Being tender drive, it used to push the locked skidding engine wheels along so the motor burned out. After that I offloaded all my Hornby tender drives as well as I feared the same would happen.

Shie boxes for locos and rolling stock and labelled Lurpak margerine tubs, 2 sizes, for smaller bits, plus any tins I can get that had say shortbread of biscuits in. Also several other containers from foodstuffs such as spice plastic containers and some small glass jars. It is a by product of doing the washing up !

Valve gear off a retailer on the internet for my Bachmann Ivatt 2-6-2 tank split chassis, but both sides were poorly made, were possibly seconds and basically fell apart in a key area. I can get a part I need out of the bits though, so objective achieved. The firm kindly sent me a list of the other spares they sell, but I dare not risk getting anything else now. A down side of mail order of course.

I had another look at the internet and the valve gear, and the crankpin is a push fit, so managed to ease it off. So, I thought I would then be able to replace most of the valve gear from the one "good" side I had got new, but as soon as I touched it, that fell apart as well. Looks like I have been sold seconds. On closer examination, a spigot on both sides is simply not long enough compared to my original one. Possibly the process of fastening the part onto the spigot weakened the metal and caused it to fracture. However, no point complaining as I eased out a broken small end of the spigot that was lodged in the part I was needing. I should be able to use it, so in effect I have got the part I needed, so end result should be fine. It would have been better to have been able to replace the whole of the valve gear as one lot rather than try and fasten this part on though. No doubt I will find the original on the layout at some point.

A Bachmann Ivatt 2-6-2 T split chassis circa 25 years old. Part of the valve gear - a very tiny rectangular piece of metal with a hole in fell off months ago. I managed to press fit it back on with great difficulty, but it fell off when running on the layout, never to be seen again. I found the other day on E-bay a replacement set of valve gear and the parts were soon delivered. However, the side I wanted was faulty - the part I had lost was also detached, but seems faulty anyway. So I worked out that I could use part of the good new side but cannot get the hexagon screw off to get the valve gear off. I am using pliers which I realise is not ideal but they should be able to do the job. So I am reverting to using the part that fell off the new valve gear, but I need to drill it out and then this time will use a tiny bit of araldite to it to secure it, but will have to be careful as there is a moving piece of valve linkage that fits on the spigot that this plate fastens to. In the meantime, is there a particular way to get the hexagonal headed screw off that fastens the gear to the centre wheel. or will it just be seized after 25 years ? Is it by any chance a LH tread ?

A Bachmann Ivatt 2-6-2 T split chassis circa 25 years old. Part of the valve gear - a very tiny rectangular piece of metal with a hole in fell off months ago. I managed to press fit it back on with great difficulty, but it fell off when running on the layout, never to be seen again. I found the other day on E-bay a replacement set of valve gear and the parts were soon delivered. However, the side I wanted was faulty - the part I had lost was also detached, but seems faulty anyway. So I worked out that I could use part of the good new side but cannot get the hexagon screw off to get the valve gear off. I am using pliers which I realise is not ideal but they should be able to do the job. So I am reverting to using the part that fell off the new valve gear, but I need to drill it out and then this time will use a tiny bit of araldite to it to secure it, but will have to be careful as there is a moving piece of valve linkage that fits on the spigot that this plate fastens to. In the meantime, is there a particular way to get the hexagonal headed screw off that fastens the gear to the centre wheel. or will it just be seized after 25 years ? Is it by any chance a LH tread ?

I have just been through 9 Tri-ang Blue/Grey MK1s and a Tri-ang utility van. Cleaning wheels, oiling axles and changed a broken coupling. 7 of these plus the van are from the 60s when I was a child. 3 brake 2nds, 2 composites, a parcels coach and a restaurant car. Three were CKD kits that I bought in 1966 as they were far cheaper than the assembled ones. Also painted my PECO girder bridge in grey so ready for some rust to be applied. I have also spent a good while trying to get the Tri-ang 2-6-2 T 82004 from 1969 to run. I have the motor out and noticed a loose bit of solder on the commutator, so dabbed that with solder. Thought I had a result as the motor spun quickly but after 5 seconds it smoked and glowed before the solder came adrift. I guess it is jiggered - but I can't understand why it runs so well for 5 seconds. I thought I had a spare in a Scalectrix Lister Jaguar from the 60s, but the gear is different and I have no idea how to change that over, and equally don't want to risk ruining the car. Next task is on the layout to get the bridge into place and continue putting things back together after 4 tracking the short section.

The BMan Peak is now back together and has test run OK, so the Araldite is holding at the moment. I have also got a Tri-ang 3F 43775 0-6-0 running again. I had a short due to the + wires touching the chassis by the carbon brushes. It has Romford wheels so runs fine through the PECO pointwork. Runs very well, as I put pickups to 4 of the tender wheels when I added the Romford wheels many years ago. I have also got two Tri-ang Britannias running again, and they are sort of OK through the pointwork, with just a little bounce now and again. Not bad enough to stop me running them, but not ideal. They have been packed away for many years but the motors run fine and the engine really flies as I disconnected the smoke generators years ago and the extra power for the motor is legendary ! One of the bodies is damaged though, a corner is off the front buffer beam, so surgery is required from a spare body to mend it. I also have Romford wheels for them, bought at great expense many years ago. Not sure if I want to risk fitting them though. I never fitted them as although the 3F conversion was a success my Tri-ang 2-6-2 T was not as the main gear would not fit on the new axle. I opened it out a bit but then it was loose and so that got put away. Now the motor is dead, and I cannot fathom out why but suspect it is on the armature as I can't get continuity between a couple of the segments as I can on the Britannias. I am unable to remove the motor, it looks like the driving wheels and axle will have to come out. All in all a successful time with 7 engines back in service. Just the 2-6-2 T and a BMan Ivatt 2-6-2T tan to sort out now, but I lost a crucial piece off the valve gear. The BMan Hong Kong std 4 4-6-0 is a dead duck though as the wheels are distorted - a common fault I believe. .

I have sorted out the Bman split chassis Royal Scot 46162 Queens Westminster Rifles. Basically, just a thorough clean of the axles and wheels and oiling with PECO electrolube, but it now runs the best it has ever done. It has been prone to jerky running, but ran sweetly on test. So that is 3 "big" engines back in use now. I have done some re-assembly on the Bman Peak - D193 in green - but still some way to go. I had to take it well apart to get to the driveshaft coupling that was split. I am hoping that araldite has sorted that out. Next job on the layout is making a bridge out of 3 PECO truss girder bridge kits. The wooden "deck" is still in situ so it should not take long. The bridge accommodates a branch head shunt over the 4 main line tracks to create the scenic break.

The Black Five with the distorted valve gear is running again, and has done about 10 circuits under test light engine. A mixed result with Lord Rowallan. It is back together and running fine with the decoder binned and a blanking plate utilised. However, I broke the speedo cable on refitting the body so that is now araldited and is holding somehow. I also damaged the valve gear that runs up in a gap on the running plate. A tiny black plastic piece came off on one side and so that has been araldited too. It does not move so is OK. Pity, I was a bit ham fisted but of minor cosmetic consequences - it was a non runner before. Plus I identified that two tender wheels were not picking up current, so that is a bonus. Next on the list is a Bman Royal Scot spilt chassis that never runs well, so will strip it right down and clean it thoroughly. After that is a Tri-ang 0-6-0 43775 that is just not working, a Bman Peak that needs a driveshaft coupling glueing and then re-assembling and an Bman Ivatt 2-6-2 tank with valve gear damage that I have lost a tiny part for unfortunately - it is on the layout somewhere ! I have also rewheeled 9 x 4 wheel wagons. I bought 18 wheelsets but still need some more.