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Wargame rules and associated army lists can be a good sales tool for models, creating new demand for specific models. By adding a new model to the army list and releasing the same model ie as a kit, with the associated card or even with some kind of bonus, is possible to increase sales. Adding new scenarios, with other requirements, even adding aerial support, can keep things moving. Organizing tornements, understanting the needs of wargamers and supplying them with new options can lead to a more interactive dialogue with customers and spread modeling among youngsters.

Was the "Tuning Panther" version, a low profile, wide tracks desert racer :)

Long time ago, there are other brands using 1/76, as Matchbox, Fujimi or Nitto, but most choose 1/72 and now it become a standard. Was better to see new Airfix models, including figures, made in 1/72 instead of 1/76 and correcting a few "famous" mistakes, as those in the SdKfz 234/4.

One aircraft with the option of retracted undercarriage, in flight position, supplied without pilot seems weird but happens often. The pilot and visible crew should be included, and I also miss the good old stand, but extra crew should be a separete option. For tanks my approach is different, if the same model can be displayed in different fronts and fighting for several armies. Crew sets should be available for each major army/front and will be up to the buyer to choose the set for the intended scenario.

Good or specific figures can be found, but spread from many different sets. The Preiser sets can provide a good source, but for a given scenario, sometimes only a few are suitable. I build several models representing airplanes or vehicles in North Africa, during the Second World War and found generic figures in maintenance or support duties missing. In such roles, most personal don’t have many specific items, can be in shorts, shirts or bare chests and without any headwear or with almost universal side caps. These figures can be suitable to represent Italian, German or British personal and be accurate just by swapping heads, if needed.

I want to make accurate models who can be as real as possible in pictures, so I need to include exagerate details or even panel lines to allow them to be clear in the pictures. It also means adding more deep shadows in cloths and even in the skin. /media/tinymce_upload/d0c886821cad732d5d633c6fb84837a3.jpg

For kits reproducing older models, rivers seems to add some realism because capture the spirit, even if is a wrong detail.This, however depend if the model have some kind of weathering or damage and from the whole environment. I usually pick a thin paint brush and paint the recessed lines, as in this 1/72 Bf 109E model, and while admit is not correct, I enjoy doing it: /media/tinymce_upload/036ff28cac3f442fdc9830072074dca0.JPG

Never had the chance, but taking pictures to those I build, its obvious that details need to be enhanced, otherwise the models seems unimpressive, a little more than just a empty shape. This is something learned from experience and now is obvious to me.

Sometimes I highlight panel lines using a thin brush, but depends from the base color and what I'm doing with the model. Also may add a very small black line between different color or to add dept or to highlight more exposed areas. If the idea is to take pictures, sometimes I need to exagerate a few details, otherwise, cannot be seen, but, again, depend from the model itself and the base colors. I agree, we want to be satisfied with the models we build, not exactly to please critics :)

Check EBay auctions and individual bids. Its a good place to start and understand what is a reallistic price.