Darrin Bransgrove

So, have been watching Hornby, a model world, for the last month, it's finally getting around to Airfix. I know the train world is very active, but I feel the Airfix, and scale model building in general, is probably greater? What do you think?

I have found no problems using it on enamels..

There are several bespoke hobby paint removers. The one I use, and have very good results, is Revell Paint Remover (it does what it says on the bottle, lol). The only disadvantage is that it is relatively more expensive around £6 for a bottle, and you might need 2 to cover a 1/32 tank (although you don't really need to completely cover it). It has the advantage of being much quicker (paint starts to come off after a few minutes) and less toxic than oven cleaner (that is also non-reusable). My general mode of use is to place the kit in an old plastic food container (like a takeaway box), poor the solution over and gently scrub with a toothbrush or old paint brush for delicate areas to remove the paint. Works really well. Reuse it but filtering off removed paint with an old tea strainer and returning it to the bottle.

This definitely a thorny subject. Initially, I hated PE. As is well known, the superglue seems to stick everything else except the part to the kit. But I persevered and got some tools, and with practice have become vastly better than early days. Simply put, if you are happy with what the kit gives you and can create something you are pleased with, steer away from PE. However, if you want a nice, neat instrument panel, for example, PE results can be stunning. Same with seatbelts. But its not just about enhancing detail that might be already present, but adding detail left off. For example, I'm currently adding on the superb detail set from Atlantic to Airfix HMS Daring. This includes beautiful antenna array that improve the kits, but also railings and other parts that are not present. It has nearly driven me to an early grave, but I can see the final result will be impressive and an enormous sense of satisfaction.

I would hazard a guess that the person you spoke to probably didn't have a clue. I frequently visit my local Hobbycraft and my impression is Airfix sell more than Tamiya and Revell (perhaps equal to Revell). It may be more down to business decisions like profit margins and how much bulk discounts they can screw out of each company. Certainly I've purchased more Airfix than any other brand there.

You have posted a slightly difficult question. If your kit looks more or less like the box art, I would say that is fairly realistic. But if you are refering to a more 'weathered' or 'in service' look, there are many techniques that are simple to achieve. As others have said, there are many demo's on YouTube. I think most modelers first step that you could try (although there is some debate with regards to taste on this subject) is some sort of panel line wash. This would accentuate the detail of the aircraft.

If I'm right in my understanding of your question, which is to scale the instruction sheet to the size of the kit, here's my method. Download the instructions from internet to a PDF. Open in Adobe PDF viewer. Take a snapshot of what you want to print. Before printing, look at preview. Get your kit, hold it over the preview on the screen and size the layout (so, for example, you may need to print the image at 150% til it matches the size of the model). Once the image on the screen matches the size of your kit, you can then print and your camo will be the correct size. Then it will be just a case of cutting out the pattern and masking. Also, if it is a curved line camo, I'd invest in a Rotocut that are superb tools. This method does require a little bit of trial and error just to get it right, but it has worked really well for me..

A spray booth of some sort is reccomended. I have used spray cans with just news paper spread out but they do seem to have a fine mist that does seem to get everywhere. With regards to primer, it all depends on which brand you are using. If out of tins, then they are probably enamels. If you are using a brush, probably not thinned as long as the paint is thoroughly stirred. If using an airbrush, definitely so. Preferably a proprietary product if possible. The best advise is always test on an odd piece of kit to see how it covers..

That's sort of my secondary point; I find that Humbrol is thin enough to work by capilliary action in a joint (I have no idea what capilliary attraction is: the name would suggest something that flows towards rather than just into and along a joint). Capillary attraction = capilliary action. I use both, but Tamiya Extra thin (hence it's name) is better..

Tamiya Extra Thin is good as it utilises the effect of capilliary attraction between mating surfaces. So, if you have 2 seams,like fuselage parts, to glue together, you can place glue at one point and it will flow through the seam. It also has the advantage that you can get the two parts to fit together correctly before you actually apply the glue as it will flow between the two parts even if they are tightly compressed together. This means less glue and cleaner than thicker glues like Humbrol's. It still gives adequate fix time.

I would say that it woulld be fine. It's made by a reputable company. I use their extra thin version and find it really good, been using it for years. Just be careful not to get it onto surface detail and let it dry thoroughly before painting ( I usually give it a few hours).

I concur totally with the matt white, satin/gloss over finish. The Humbrol acrylic matt white aerosol is very good.

What brand/type of wash did you use? Nice finish, btw..

I really wonder why some people are so adverse to applying a primer. The advantages far outweigh the negatives (are there any apart from cost?). You wouldnt get your car repainted and not have a base coat. You wouldnt paint a wall without a base coat.

I've used to use modelstrip years ago and found it very fussy and messy and not very fast (as others have mentioned, you had to leave it over night in a plastic bag). I now use Revell's paint remover and it works a dream. I either soak the part completely and leave for only a few minutes then lightly use an old brush to clean off the paint, then wash in soapy water to clear any residue. If you are careful enough you can even use it on isolated areas. One thing just be careful of, only leave in the solution for as long as it takes to start the paint peeling otherwise it can soften the plastic and damage delicate detail.