john_whitworth

I bought this set: https://www.rapidonline.com/wera-05073675001-12-sb-12-piece-kraftform-micro-screwdriver-set-54-7061 Very happy with it so far - but it doesn't contain any 'secure' type heads - i.e. triangular etc - but does come with flat, Phillips, hex and Torx. The 'proper' handles make working a cinch.

I've realised the issue. I was trying to use this is MESH mode, but have seen from another post that you need more than one NODE to use MESH. So as I only have one HM6010 so far, that won't work. So I changed from MESH to BLE mode in settings (under Bluetooth Mode), and it works properly. I presume that when I get my second HM6010, I can have a MESH connection instead?

In preparation for the HM | DCC app being released, various parts have arrived. I'll park the HM7000 decoder for now, and concentrate on the HM DC side of things. I ordered the DC6010 and compatible 1A power supply. I also ordered the 4A track power supply, but have not connected that up as yet, as am really just bench testing for now. I powered up the DC6010 successfully, and managed initial connections using my Samsung Galaxy S20+ phone. It is running the 1.6.3 firmware. I did see 1.10.1 in the update list, although 1.6.3 is still marked as the 'latest'. After this initial connection, the DC6010 just disconnects, and shows the static red LED and flashing blue LED. I have tried reconnecting in the control menu, but it just says 'disconnected'. All I have connected is the 1A power supply, and a surface mount point into port 1 as a simple test, but nothing happens at all, no matter what I try. I have a track created and enabled, but just cannot seem to get a persistent connection to the HM6010. It appears in my Bluetooth menu, and if I click that, the blue LED goes static for a short while, then I get a message saying I need the app to connect to it, and the blue LED starts flashing again. For what is supposedly simple, this seems really complicated - or am I totally missing something? Also, having bought both the 1A and 4A transformers, I see that a connection can be made directly to the track for power. Or is that just for HM | DC, and not HM7000?

Well yes, but I suppose what I meant was - there's nothing in a steam loco preventing other loco sounds from being generated? I'll only be playing around to start with, having just converted the one loco for now.

I know Valenta is diesel, and Harry Potter is steam - but can silly combinations not be played around with?

Thanks guys. I've ordered just enough to try things out on the Harry Potter set to start with, and then I can order the extra bits to put it all onto the main set. It will be useful to power the turntable from the HM6010 initially, although ultimately I think I'd prefer two-way operation, but that expense can wait. I've renewed my Hornby Club membership, as think it's practically paid for itself already - although some of the stuff is available cheaper from third parties, with the 15% reward points (and HM7000 virtual exclusivity as of now), it's about the same direct from Hornby (particularly as I have EH membership for the additional discount). I'd also ordered a 2023 catalogue which arrived today, and the Valenta sounds are listed for HM7000, so that's another tick in the box. I'm sure the Harry Potter train will sound great with Valenta effects! laughing

This is a great reply... Many thanks. It's certainly let me see the wood for the trees, and things now seem a whole lot simpler (and cheaper). I will likely get the HM7000 PSU bundle and a couple of HM6010 to control the points. The HM7000 system definitely does seem to be the more obvious choice, and my procrastination may have been helpful! blush The TT is a Hornby one, and I'll do the further reading on the forum as to how to control it. Now the biggest problem is just waiting for the HM7000 app, but I guess I can at least just get on with the HM6010 side of things for now. I've actually also realised that we have a complete Harry Potter set, which I might use to do a trial run of the whole thing first, rather than modifying the big layout straight away. That should give me a better understanding of what's going on. Think all the bigger Thomas trains are 8 pin decoders. Harry Potter, not so sure, but wouldn't be surprised if the same. Thanks again John

I've read a few guides online, and watched the Hornby videos, but still cannot really get the answers I need. My current layout was originally started as something simple for my son, essentially the Trakmat layout but on a permanent board - though by using AnyRail, I modified the layout to include some more sidings running off of a turntable. If there's anything fundamentally wrong with the track layout, please don't tell me, as it's too late to change that now! grin The layout is 6' x 4'. I've had everything working, just never got round to permanently wiring everything up, as things started to get confusing trying to work out how to gather things all up to an external connection point on the board (the board is heavy, and generally lives upright against a wall, so all controllers would be plugged in each time (HM2000 and my own points/turntable control device). From what I understand, DCC will simplify this a lot, though I will be doing a little more underboard wiring. Now I believe that the accessory decoders operate 4 devices each, and as I have one turntable and six sets of points, I'd need two accessory decoders. What I don't really understand is how I power the track. I have read talk of 'boosters', but this doesn't seem to get any mention on Hornby at all. I also know that I need point clips on all points, to permanently power all track I guess? If I needed capacitor discharge circuits, would one do for all points, or would it be one per set of points? I believe with the non-DCC method, I would have been using just one capacitor discharge circuit? But as for powering the track, do I need multiple power inputs, or is the one 15v AC supply OK, but would need several track clips around the layout? Also, now seeing HM7000 on the horizon, I am further bamboozled. I'd really like to get an HST set with Valenta sounds - I know the decoders can still be had. And it doesn't look like Valenta is in the HM7000 list as yet. If I buy the last generation of digital decoders (8-pin I think), will anything new be able to run alongside the system? I am looking at getting the DCC Elite controller as a starting point, and possibly the HM7000 dongle in the future. We've got a right old mix of locos that would gradually need upgrading to digital. Modern ones include some of the club locos, The Captain Tom Moore and six Thomas engines. I'm pretty sure all of those will convert, with or without sound. I then have a 1980s Lima Class 42, and a couple of very old Tri-ang locos (Suburban SR Emu R156 and Trans-Continental R55). Are these very old locos even DCC convertible, or just best left to a DC layout?

Thanks again. I took a look at the Molex website (was getting nowhere fast with the resellers, as the range is just too big - which is both good and bad). Have sent Molex tech support a question as follows:

OK - thanks guys. Now avoiding 'quote' button! Am currently exploring all sorts of Molex connectors!

That would surely mean a seperate connector per conductor though. I was rather hoping to use a plug/socket combination that was more foolproof.

OK - thanks. The wires going from each solenoid are really quite small though? I have one of the capacitor discharge units to actually fire the points. I've also realised that my description was not that great. I am using the surface point motors, but the wiring then goes through the board. Does that make a difference? I'm pretty familiar with the component suppliers, but the range of connections is massive, so really just wondered if anyone was already using something. That said, your suggestion of automotive connectors is a very good idea - and it has actually also made me think of thing like computer motherboard power connectors, which I could also investigate. Cheers John

I'm looking for a suitable connector by which I can connect my main board to my points & turntable control box. I've got six points on the mainboard - all wired underneath, as well as one turntable. Therefore I am after a pretty robust connector which I'll be able to attach to the side of the main board. I was originally thinking of something like a Centronics connector, as it has the mechanical clips to retain the cable, as well as a nice size overall. But I then began to wonder whether it would support the kind of current draw that would be required. It's possible that I might also route my two 12V controlled supplies via this control box as well, so the connector needs to be suitably rated. Ideally I want it to be able to be easily connected & disconnected so that the control box can be stored seperately from the main board, which unfortunately needs to be stored against the wall. Any recommendations please? Thanks John