JeremiahBunyan

Some updates from Tim, Here's a few pictures of the MBC, pretty simply and nice weathering done that actually matches the real wagons. Still needs all the couplings and the handbrake added. Thank you Mr. Hornby, your couplings worked a dream. /media/tinymce_upload/dfdb089201bac8ee608a8083e0ddfbb4.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/4b0b620b863728a7bc2ab2544d4680c1.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/6025e563106549fe559269fe1f964956.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/3fefa34c532af607334680444277b79f.JPG

Thanks for your kind words SoT... I prefer to use WSF for bigger parts as it requires a little sanding but the results are fabulous. For smaller parts like bogies (if they need to have wheels clipped in) then B-HDA is quite good. However if you require a non-functional detailed part then FUD is quite good.

Here's a couple of pictures showing the MBC, MGC and MBVG, more picture due when I receive them. /media/tinymce_upload/c28b5e66cd20f96ce9525c0417568e14.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/882d73272e0d41961ddfa3b02f252e8c.jpg

Some more updates... This time in 1:76, in November I had a customer in the UK contact me regarding the designing of Indian Railway metre gauge trains in 1:76 scale. He kindly provided a lot of scale drawings and together with our combined knowledge and resources I set about designing them and he then proceeded to assemble it as and when he got parts printed. In order to start small we disccused it and then chose 3 wagons, an MBC (8-wheel covered box car), an MGC (4-wheel covered box car) and MBVG (a 4-wheeled brake van). My customer has chosen to use 12mm gauge track to represent metre gauge and for future broad gauge he's got some hand made 22mm gauge track. Anyway here are some picture from the design stage all the way upto where he's got to about now in terms of assembling and painting. MBC /media/tinymce_upload/3e2f59e51cc6685fa3de4a1332aa437c.jpg MGC /media/tinymce_upload/0a829bd749d4282728a011f2199ba6d5.jpg MBC and MGC doors (a separate part for better detail) /media/tinymce_upload/31e9d2a15ade544dc79a736953f33ec5.jpg MBVG /media/tinymce_upload/ec5e120c1bcfa1c852b85bdb5d1c2f8c.jpg MGC 3D Print /media/tinymce_upload/0f51992d903de9d95902df63a0f44690.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/8e6e7f26917d4136d9edc392e76ea44c.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/a5c9ce538f61f6e3d07a8edf07e2cfcb.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/2ced34437172bb245ade92a41da914a1.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/559f6b8a8af1c03ccfecf41748a0b018.JPG MBC 3D Print /media/tinymce_upload/e45ed98df18921e9cce24a96c932a537.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/fdbbec2ab033a8be4fe5c30101a003c2.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/4fbd01b179898ac0de33a99ef659cc20.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/51a7f5114afaf95d72247259fbfc4ab4.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/24bc2c3f5ee94bc61560cee046a0fd90.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/7ed004124dc50e30816dcf57c778c7e6.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/060c0a1b995ee355d66784c5af2a319c.JPG With regards to the MBVG, I haven't received pictures of it yet, but I hope to see some soon. Well that's it from me today! Cheers! JB. PS: All the CAD images are mine, but I must add all the images of the 3D prints are taken by Tim Shaw and hence belong to him.

Thanks Roger! Yes there are some materials that have virtually no lines! I am looking to using one such material in the near future.

Expect some updates soon! I posted an update with pictures on Friday, currently awaiting admin approval!

Hello chaps, I'm back, this time to show you'll some of the latest in customer orders. So a couple of weeks ago I was contact by a person in India to make him a N gauge (1:150) Indian Railways WAP-5. The WAP-5 is a Bo-Bo AC electric locomotive which was put into service on the Indian Railways in 1995. It was designed and built initially by ABB and then under license by Chitaranjan Locomotive Works (CLW) in India. I was more than happy to do so and twith the easily available TomyTec chassis in hand I set about making the model. So far the CAD is complete and the first test 3D-printed parts and now in. Unfortunately my customer was in a wee bit of a hurry to get it and when the first 3D-print in Shapeways' B-HDA failed I was told to reduce the detail. My customer eventually settled on Shapeways' FUD and as a result now has a slightly detailed model. So the CAD is complete and and the test prints are in, pantographs are a compromised 1:160 pair of Sommerfeldt ones. The more accurate Dapol ones are a little too long but I may personally use them if I get down to building one for myself. So please enjoy the pictures and as usual I'd love to hear what you'll think of it! Just a little note the CAD doesn't show all the extra fitted parts like the pantographs, handrails, couplings etc. Just shows the 3D printed parts and chassis. CAD Stage: /media/tinymce_upload/2e9baa40240bd26589463e05b5e96131.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/2f48fd04dd1f2207ad7004ac11f6e53a.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/2a32d2ae3d4ec459d87b435d7ed2c13a.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/ded5a94089655e540c4fde0e0fb6846a.jpg 3D printed parts: /media/tinymce_upload/8b21f3cfa72f3b5576a70c3188f8e83a.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/5208c3ef42a294c99850a7ddb6448e80.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/2abfcec84a86619cbcc1f49e7353ce86.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/c42c6e92f440be1650d86339e2316c8d.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/ad74b3a2513943c125db6e483b4fb77c.jpg So for now that's the latest update, tomorrow I'll post one of my 1:76 scale projects I am doing with a gentleman from the UK. Cheers for now! JB.

You lucky chap, problem here is that the Customs Department have no idea what they're doing. 3D-printed articles are charged at 33%. Toys and Collectibles are also listed at 33%. But they're only focused on making money and giving the customer a hard time. Bought 3 lengths of N gauge flexi-track and two packs of Dapol N gauge OHE and paid 10 quid for customs. Bought a Hornby Peckett and paid 4 quid for customs...Made no sense!

You hit the nail on the head there. Absolutely spot on, it's still in it's infancy.

Thanks Chris, I will contact Adam as soon as I can. Thanks for for kind words too.

Hi 81F, Funnily enough I do the exact same thing, all my loco bodies have a wall thickness that is 0.7mm, the bare minimum, I also make large flat portions of a loco body hollow and use plasticard of the same thickness (or similar to fill it in. Instant cost savings, however the issue lies in the other cost build ups. For example if I order 3D prints worth $100, P&P is $20 and finally I have to pay customs on that total, I am charged a very high rate at 33%, which is $39. So for an order worth $100 I end up paying $159 for the remainder of the shipping and customs charges. To some that might not look like much, but for a person who has to balance the RTR side of a hobby, the custom built side of the hobby, part of an education and all that on a part-time job income...it's a little out of my league. That's just the 3D printing costs, running mechs can cost anywhere between $80 to $180 and then it's shipping and customs...and the list and prices just goes on and on. Like I've mentioned elsewhere, I tried making an HO scale Bo-Bo Industrial Shunter, it still lacks etched grilles and I've spent over 400 quid on it already, the shunter looks like a BR Clayton but in HO scale and it's costed so much. Mind you, N gauge is actually quite affordable when it comes to 3D printing, but the lack of spares and other parts means that it's not always the best solution. In terms of rolling stock, I don't do what you did exactly, but I do something similar, I make the base like a girder desgin so there's hollow parts in the chassis

As promised here is a few pictures showing my Hornby Caledonian Railways 0-4-0ST 0F Pug as it was detailed. There's actually a couply of things left, firstly I need to chop of those ugly couplings and add some slimmer NEM tension-lock couplings and then I'll have to paint the brake-pipes red (well atleast the vertical metal part, not the curved pllastic/rubber part). Never took pictures of the loco out of the box, we all know them too well by now. So here's a couple of pictures just after I added some handrails on the saddle tank. /media/tinymce_upload/4afce1e5d090efbb0228086a93bbbdf8.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/6fc93c5cf1f32deccd3dc90a3b566b88.jpg Okay so I don't have a fancy workbench, but I do have a nice split box with a number of basic modelling requirments... /media/tinymce_upload/087f11421f7dcb75e1ca885edcfe6c8c.jpg Adding the vertical handrail to the rear of the cab /media/tinymce_upload/7a47ea4b5365b11c83cc05013d39d7c4.jpg Something small that many simply overlook, but these simple extra details that Hornby supply can go a long way. No need to go out and buy more expensive figures, these are just great. /media/tinymce_upload/33762102a0a6714d212780525fe3aa61.jpg Last couple of pics of the figures in their "Dark Knight" avatar posing beside the loco. /media/tinymce_upload/8f1dc7a0babc878b12d4c3c577e4a160.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/aa8cdfc900d34df1bb16f4bf78edd83c.jpg A shot of the cab detail, pretty good for a RailRoad model. In future I'd love to paint those details... /media/tinymce_upload/21405a264f7f03cd1bf273a5f8061ed9.jpg Something I am really proud of during this entire project, was the fact that I hand-painted the figures. I am an artist, but never knew my first effort at painting a OO gauge figure would turn out like so... /media/tinymce_upload/f372474306fa11689e9cd7a9cd482639.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/f58b9f4f65aa608d7e06ac239f6de6e4.jpg Masking time...a word of advice, always take your time with masking, the best way to get the best result is time and patience. I went for the black handrail and brass knob look. /media/tinymce_upload/c5e52c62c5cf589cc97feab8a573cb51.jpg A look at the finished handrail... /media/tinymce_upload/cef803ece36b8b53b803bcac64fc8a2b.jpg And now here's a bunch of pictures showing the almost finished model, as I said I want to swap the coiplings and paint the brake-pipes. I wasn't brave enough to tackle the smoke-box door handle or the handrail above it. /media/tinymce_upload/2072804cf19beefd16922cb09bce0355.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/23c8e3b42e254f6d39b4b2df119c7daf.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/8f54bb132e5b0f9e4996395a57c729f1.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/8cc1492289ea18d2e31eefede23b0887.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/c12c94d8dc8e5649b7cf466a93247517.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/83ce75b7a794f174507fbaec6eaf33d0.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/68856e3bdde91a112bd6d3f74f40a2dc.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/1b4a95fd06811e2267d8ff24facfb855.JPG So that's all for my first little project, more parts ordered for the second project. And before I finish off....just wanted to say that this project was just to test out my skill, I wasn't intending on this being 100% accurate to the real loco or anything on those lines, I added handrails where I felt they should be, I've put the brake-pipes where most locos have them, I've added a generic lamp bracket (which is seen on the TTTE range and finally the drivers have had their uniform painted just like the crew from TTTE. Oh and just to note...all this took just two hours! Cheers! JB.

Hey everyone, Just thought that now would be the best time for me to start a topic relating to all my detailing, 3D-printing and scratch-building projects. Most recently I did the most basic of detailing, I went down the old-school path and got hold of a Hornby 0-4-0ST from their RailRoad range (the Caledonian Railways Pug) and detailied it. This was my first detailing project and I'm happy to say that it was successful. Earlier I had a set of 3D printed parts delivered to me, over-time they warped (due to the extreme climate?). The answers I got on how to rectify it might have been the best way, but I ended up spoiling the 3D printed parts completely, in railway terms it was written off. Lesson learnt - Shapeways' FUD is the best for detail but not good in other aspects, all my future 3D printed parts will be done in WSF and B-HDA. I do also make custom made models for customers and a couple of projects are almost done in their 3D CAD stage and 3D prints will be ordered soon. Thirdly, for me 3D printing isn't the best solution, I did try (as stated above) making a smaller Bo-Bo Industrial Shunter, however in total it costed as much as two Hornby HST's brand new for me to make a small Bo-Bo shunter in 1:87 scale. I have since decided to use a combination (or hybrid if I may?) of two methods - scratch-building major parts using plasticard and 3D printing minor detail bits (bogie frames, interior detailis, buffers, buffer-beam details). This should drastically reduce the cost according to my calcuations. When 3D-printing the model costed me in excess of a 150 quid not including the shipping and 33% tax in the form of customs, making the body and chassis and body out of plasticard costed me 2 quid so far. So please excuse the lack of pictures in this first post, they'll follow in the second post as soon as an admin or mod approves it. The first set of pictures will be about my mini project where I detailed a Hornby 0F 0-4-0ST Pug. The project is complete (only have to swap couplings for better ones). Also currently on my workbench is the following - 1:87 scale SAN DL700 Industrial Shunter for the Indian Railways (scratch-built after th failed 3D printed effort); 1:150 scale Indian Railways WAP-5 (for a customer and uses a TomyTec chassis and 3D printed body); detailing and repainting of a Hornby RailRoad SR D-Class; 1:150 scale Indian Railways DEMU (for a customer and uses a GreenMax chassis and 3D printed bodies) and finally another customer project which is a 1:76 scale Indian Railways MG rolling stock and locos (I am only doing the CAD work, but will share images too). So untill the next post... Cheers! JB.

My latest aquisition... An absolutely stunning model. Bought it for dad. My next Hornby purchase would be a Class 87 (whenever Hornby decide to do either a Caledonian, Virgin or Cotswold Rail variant). I'll probably get a Class 71 from RoS if funds permit. /media/tinymce_upload/9ec2d680614967de3b47d1a0d62e8f19.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/37d9f065840109ec4c6afb112d2926bd.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/a17cb82a5ee4a409cd510bae8f3bcd5f.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/75a8c3982e89578a0116798ab7e04bb7.JPG

Thanks WTD....I agree, we'll all have our own 3D printers soon. The coin is 2.5cm wide. Cheers! J

Most home printers can do 0.5mm detail, some even go down to 0.2mm detail (by detail I mean embossed/engraved detail). You must also keep in mind other criteria like min supported wall thickness and min unsupported wall thickness. All I know is that it's not that cheap. But roughly starting at 500 quid for a good one. Depending on size, something the size of a LB&SCR E2 can be rougly 25-35 quid. And something the size of say a Class 60/66/92 can be over 80 quid. Yes, depending on the type of printer there are restrictions, usually the size of the printing table. There's a variety of materials, nylon based, plastic, even wood. Most recently China 3D printed homes in concrete on a giant scale. I use SketchUp, it's free and by far the most powerful and easy-to-learn software. I actually learnt how to use SketchUp without any tutorials for help. I did it all by myself and it took me a month and a half. I'd be more than happy to help you out. Yes, incidentally I just received my first set of 3D prints, I was contemplating on whether to post them here or not. Afterall I do run a small hobby/business and I was afraid many would mistake it for advertising. I do have an online shop on Shapeways, though I mostly dabble in T gauge (1:450) I have a couple of OO gauge detailing parts for Hornby models so I didn't want it to come across as advertising. I can give you my feedback based on Shapeways only, I tried two materials - WSF and FUD. WSF was too grainy for my liking and the post-printing work i.e. wet and dry sanding is just too time consuming. FUD on the other hand is much much better and requires less post-printing work (I have dileberately not sanded my FUD parts just to see it's final outcome). T gauge (1:450) Indian Railways 4-6-2 WP Class /media/tinymce_upload/8d02486405eb51878ba322ab56fd9f48.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/489d48801670a84034b9a8c5c26cb3dd.JPG T gauge (1:450) GWR Lineside Huts /media/tinymce_upload/019adb78f7b9ab674e01e686b7ef1848.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/190196282ed75c8c5991372fa6a9f329.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/af71cedc76c4ae4ba141ffdacab8d1bf.jpg T gauge (1:450) GWR Pagoda Waiting Room /media/tinymce_upload/79188f93353cb6471754256f8ecb7fd2.jpg T gauge (1:450) GWR Water Towers /media/tinymce_upload/c05c471a58d7168f2198b13c73d542d5.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/4ba2f855d1b52213e0d463401b1892b0.jpg HO gauge (1:87) Indian Railways SAN DL700 Industrial Shunter /media/tinymce_upload/1b2c85adfea2c37f09fa74553959b75d.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/8c96959c7cc69ce789da308d5b90e502.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/5540986199ef15717ff68c3430b7834e.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/1c4cb86ee4f1403475506f65e396809b.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/13622659d1becc85873eafba986e812f.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/88fafb140d29e1dfff1c980233ee5d4f.JPG Note: The transparent plastic is Shapeways' FUD (Frosted Ultra Detail) a good material that is slightly brittle but also flexible. Finish is pretty smooth and requires the least amount of post-printing work. The white plastic is Shapeways' WSF (White Strong and Flexible). By far the best in terms of robustness but severely let down by it's grainy finish. If you need any more advice and/or tips feel free to ask Adam for my email ID. I'll be more than happy to help you out especially with learning how to design stuff using SketchUp and also 3D printing. Hope my post has been useful to you in some way or the other. Cheers! Jeremiah.

Here's my list... Class 60 x1Class 67 x1Class 71 x1Class 90 x2Class 86 x1Class 92 x1Class 08 x1Generic 0-4-0 steam loco x3

Hi Doc,You "might" (don't really quote me on this) but you might see one one day as a RailRoad model. Have a look at this link: file:///C:/Users/Jeremiah/Downloads/hss_401b_class_p2_dcc.pdf /media/tinymce_upload/d2418d3a439c85924b19a41c8a7c3589.jpg If you look closely the weight placed in the P2 boiler is shaped like an A4 rather that the current one. That's probably a clue.